Definitely not. Echinacea (coneflowers) do not like to be overwatered and it sounds like that area is not only shaded, but stays damp. It is also probably too shady for coneflowers, daisies, and the others you have. I would try Ajuga (Bugleweed). It tolerates shade and moisture well though it will do best with morning sun. Gaura (Bee Blossom Flower) is another that likes it moist, though I'm not sure if you have enough sun for that one. Lamium (Spotted Nettle) is a nice foliage plant that likes full shade and moderately moist conditions. It makes a nice groundcover and you won't have to mow. It also produces flowers and is not considered invasive, though it grows fairly fast. I hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: Shade & Moisture-Loving Perennials

Thanks to those who followed up! Here is the story. The mercury dealer informed me that they sell the ingition key as a set (ignition, doors & trunk) ~$250. I checked and several after market car parts stores carried it (~$35 to 65); Because I could not turn the key, the only way to remove the old lock is to drill out the "sidebar" in the lock so the key can be turned and the lock released from the steering colum. I called a lock smith who came to the house and did the work. Because I had a chip in the key, the lock smith had to re-key the new lock so that my old key would work the new lock. Cost: $160 for the locksmith and $45 for the lock. The

Generator grounding is complex and depends on the situation. It is always best to consult an electrician . If a generator is sold for job site usage then by OSHA rules the neutral must be bonded to the ground and frame of the generator . However a backup generator in most cases should not bind the neutral to the ground. (Floating neutral).That is only allowed once and in the us and canada that is in the main entry panel. If it is bonded in both places you introduce the possibility of a current on the grounding system. What you do depends on how you connect to your panel. (assuming a legal tranfer switch or interlock with backfeed). If the neutral is bonded in the generator then you should use a transfer switch which breaks both the hot and neutral wires . That way the bonding happens once at the generator. The generator should be connected with a 4 wire cable to the transfer switch. If the generator has a floating neutral then if local code allows you can use an interlock and backfeed breaker in your main panel (you don't need to switch the neutral) or a simpler transfer switch which only switches the hots. If you need to ground the generator you need to use at least the same gauge wire (10 gauge for 30 AMP) as the wire supplying the voltage. It must be attached to the building ground, typically a Water pipe or ground rod at or near the main panel. If you are illegally back feeding through a dryer or stove outlet, then you are own your own. You won't likely ever get the bonding/grounding to work properly. All this being said mine was wired by an electrician and my, UPS complains all the time. The reason is the voltage variance and the fact most portable generators do not generate a perfect sine wave ( aka dirty power) and the UPS detect this as faulty wiring. I also have a clothes washer which generator causes the electronics to go haywire. Everything else works fine. What happens is you run a extension cord from one of the outlets on the generator directly to your UPS? If it doesn't work properly then dirty power is the likely issue. the advice of a qualified electrician , local authority and/or local or national codes supersede any opinion or advice I have given here.

You're not in over your head. You're in over your knowledge level. Fortunately the knowledge required is well below knee height, so it shouldn't be hard to get you back where you need to be. Watering properly is the key to lawn care. There you go. One simple element. Here's how you do it. We call it deep and infrequent. Deep mean one full inch all at one time. Measure one inch by placing cans like cat food or tuna cans, around the yard and turning on your sprinklers. Time how long it takes your system to fill the cans. That will become your new watering time. In a few weeks you will unset the sprinkler timer and reset for that time. But before you can do that we need to discuss infrequent. Infrequent means once per week when the temps get into the 90s, once every other week with temps in the 80s, once every 3 weeks with temps in the 70s, and once a month with temps below 70s. But you can't just do that. Your grass has "learned" to be watered frequently. You'll need to go gradually to infrequency required to give your grass roots time to grow down deep enough to take advantage of the deep watering. There are any number of ways to get to infrequent watering. Watering more deeply and less frequently now is the place to start. If you are watering every other day now, set it for every 3rd day and water to get 1/3 inch (from your can timer test). Do that for a week and then move to watering once every 5 days. Water the full inch and watch the grass carefully toward the end of the first 5 days. If it look stressed at 3-4 days, water again immediately, but do the full inch of water. Continue watching it like that and before you know it the grass will be going a full week (or 2) without needing a drink. One thing you will notice is the soil will dry out completely at the surface. That is expected. As long as there is water down where your new deep roots are, everything will be fine with the grass. This dry surface soil is going to prevent many weed seeds from germinating. Weed seeds need several days of continual moisture, sort of like you're doing now with your watering every other day. If you deny the seeds that continual moisture, they cannot sprout. Of course Mother Nature has Her plans for your rainfall, but you can control what you can control. If you need to reseed, NOW is the time to get hopping on that. Your window of opportunity is now through about mid September to get it done for next year. If you have Kentucky bluegrass you may not need it. Mow at your mower's highest setting unless you are reseeding. Fertilize on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and again after the grass stops growing but has not yet turned brown. Stay away from weed-n-feed products. If you need a fertilizer use a fertilizer. If you need to kill lots of weeds, spot spray with a liquid like Weed-B-Gone. The weed-n-feed products have several issues that you don't need to deal with if you just don't use them. Also if you watch TV in the early spring and see the advertising for seed and fertilizer, ignore them. Just wait to fertilize on Memorial Day to do it no matter what they guy in the newspaper or on TV says. They selling you products. If you fertilize early the grass uses up more root sugar than it would normally. Then by May the grass is exhausted of nutrients and requires an extra dose (great if they're selling you products). Once it awakens in the spring the grass is going to grow like it's on rocket fuel whether you fertilize or not, so just wait. If you want to apply a preemergent herbicide, put it down when you first see the forsythia blooming. Forsythia is an early blooming plant that seems to be a good predictor of weed seed germination. There you go. A crash course in the basics. It's relatively low hassle when you know what to do and what to avoid. Slightly less basic is to use organic fertilizers. Organics work completely differently from chemical fertilizers. The difference you'll notice first is that they don't seem to do anything for 3 weeks after you apply. All you have to do to compensate is to move your fertilizer schedule ahead of what I gave you by 3-4 weeks. A subtle difference with organics is you don't have to worry about applying too much. Organics can't hurt the grass if you overapply. Feeding organic fertilizer will improve the overall biological health of your soil. Organic gardeners never complain about their soil looking tired, dried up, worn out, depleted, or unhealthy. Hope that helps.