I agree with fsrph, would look to the carb. There are literally hundreds of videos on YouTube showing how to service the carb. Likely it only needs cleaning, and not any parts. (Full rebuild kits for most of the carbs on Toros under $25) *However* it might be the governor is just gummed-up / stuck. So, before anything else, I'd try spraying carb cleaner all around the carburetor & linkage. Might fix your problem with $3 can of cleaner.

***"I doubt a "defective air filter" is the cause of a wasted cam lobe on your machine. #2) I doubt the air filter has caused *only one* of your cylinders to give up the ghost either."*** I agree with that. When the air filtration is not keeping dust and grit out of the engine, the first components to suffer are the intake valves and piston & rings/cylinder walls. Secondary components to fail would be camshaft lobes, crankshaft rod journals and piston wrist pins. If you don't "see" any visible signs of filter leakage (obvious "dust tracks" or "dust streaks" showing in the areas "past the filter", dirt in the carb throat and intake manifold (some traces of "carbon black" in the intake is OK. Dirt, grit or "sludge" is not OK), about the only way to confirm the presence of inadequate filtration, is by doing "autopsy" to the disassembled engine and components. In an "autopsy", all engine components are measured with precision instruments (micrometers, dial indicators, "plastigage" to name some)and compared to the OEM specifications and/or wear limits. The two "most telling" things to measure when you suspect that air filtration has been "compromised" or "corrupted", are the diameter of the piston "skirt", and the diameter and taper of the cylinder walls. In measuring a piston, you DO NOT measure diameter anywhere in the piston ring area. The measurements are taken across the "skirt". The "skirt" of the piston is the "long, round surface of the piston sides". The skirt is the portion of a piston that actually "supports", or "carries" the side loading of the piston that occurs when the rod journals of the crankshaft are "half way between TDC & BDC" of piston travel. For this reason, the cylinder walls will wear where the skirt "rides" more than other areas. In most engines, you will be able to actually see the "track" where the piston skirt "touches" the cylinder walls. This track is where you want to measure the cylinder to determine how much it has worn. Measure the cylinder walls that are "perpendicular" to the skirt track AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CYLINDER. This point of the cylinder will give the original diameter of the cylinder when the piston was "put into service". Knowing the "new" measurement allows you to subtract that value from the measurement taken in the skirt track of the cylinder. The "remainder" from that computaion represents the amount of wear that has occurred to the cylinder. In measuring a piston, you take the diameter spec for a new piston and subtract the measurement from the worn piston. The remainder from that computation represents the amount of wear that has occurred to the piston. You can then compare all your measurement results to see if the engine would require "over boring" the cylinder to the next appropriate "oversize" of piston. Over boring a cylinder requires an oversize piston. And, you can't use an oversize piston unless you also over bore the cylinder (they only go as a "pair") If the engine features "cast iron" liners, and dirt and grit are getting into the engine, the wear to the cylinder walls will be worse than the wear to the piston. This is because the "softer" aluminum of the piston allows some of the grit to "embed" in it. The embedded grit acts like "emery" and will cut into the cast iron while the piston itself gets "less wear". Aluminum cylinders & pistons will wear about equally. Anyhow, if the cylinder walls and piston skirt exhibit "excessive wear", the wear is most likely due to bad air filtration. So, if you think you might want to "save" this engine by replacing the camshaft (which is obviously worn), you need to perform (or have it done by a "machine shop") an autopsy to determine if the engine is a candidate in the first place, and if unfiltered air was the cause. With today's costs of machine shop operations plus the high relative costs of individual replacement parts, you have to decide whether to save that engine, or replace the engine. If all other parts measure within acceptable specs, a replacement camshaft kit is likely a good way to go (even better if you can DIY). If the pistons and cylinders (even one piston and cylinder) are worn beyond the service limits, a complete new engine makes more sense. BTW, the 120 PSI versus 135 PSI on the "good" cylinder probably reflects the worn cam lobe more than the leaking head gasket.

While a power interruption of a few hours isn't of great consequence to people with a freezer ... longer periods can be rather hair-rising. I've thought that it might be good idea for people where they have power interruptions from time to time to gather a group of, say, four to six or so, to share in buying a generator, possibly of somewhat better quality and capacity than one person would wish to, alone, to move from house to house when the power is out, to keep the food in the freezers intact. Some people where I visited with a generator wanted me to fire up their furnace, but most have an unbreakable connection to the power box and I was unwilling to risk the possibility of the main switch getting reconnected inadvertently, thus pushing power back out on to a line that the linemen understood to be dead, possibly with drastic consequences. Where codes allow, I think that it would be advisable for people to have a push-and-twist connection between the power box and the furnace. When the power is down for an extended period, most people are not going to their place of employment, so would be free to move the generator from member's house to member's house during the day and night ... or even to help an outsider, should they so choose. It would be necessary to have at least one member who had an establishment large enough to store the generator without its being a nuisance. Such a plan would provide cheap insurance for people with a substantial amount of expensive food in their freezers ... and have you noticed how the price of that food has escalated in recent times ... while the wage increases earned by most ordinary workers have been much more ... meagre? Does anyone foresee a substantial change in that scenario, any time soon? ole joyful

Thanks, it is really looking like what I'd like is not commercially available. Everything seems to be aimed at providing service as much as possible with no or short interruption. What I am really looking for is a divide to disconnect (in a pretty sensitive way) and not reconnect if power starts to go sour. If you abandon the support of continuous use and the need to restart, you no longer have to include batteries and a charger and cut complexity respectively. That would cut both initial cost and the cost of battery replacement not to mention decreasing the size and weight of the device by a great deal. For something like a lot of home entertainment equipment, it seems ideal. If you are watching or listening, who needs automatic reconnection? You can just live with the dark screen and then push the reset button when you think that it is safe. Note that I am thinking of monitoring voltage and frequency mostly as a signal that big problems (big surges) might be on the way.