Electrical outlets in baseboards or drywall?
16 years ago
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- 16 years ago
- 16 years ago
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Is the electric outlet position too low?
Comments (4)If you put in an "old work" box and the current location is covered by the baseboard, you wouldn't even have to patch and paint. I'd tell him to move it, unless there is a really short cord or something on the washlet that requires it be that low. I have to put an outlet in behind my toilet for the towel warmer - builder wouldn't put one underneath the window b/c it's too close to tub (code says 60") but I hate having the cord snake behind the toilet to go to the countertop outlet. I'm not aware of any code about toilets and washlets - if the washlet requires power and has less than 5ft of cord, I would assume you need to put a receptacle close by, and the higher the better. treasure - I can't imagine all the patching - I am horrible at patching, even with matte paint, I can see the patch in my FR under the window, I don't want to move lights in my master bath and DR and have new sconce less than a ft away shining right on my patch! But gotta do it - or live with lights not centered....See Morebuilt-in bookcases and electrical outlets
Comments (4)First rule...as was already mentioned, you can't have any junction boxes buried in a wall or behind a bookcase without providing access to that box. They all need to be accessible. I've done what you're describing many times. There are a couple of options to think about if I'm reading your situation correctly: If you can bring the existing outlets forward and incorporate them into the back of the bookcase, on the bottom shelf, that's great. The easiest way to do that is to match the location of the junction box with a hole on the back of the bookcase. Then remove the screws that hold the outlet to the existing box and pull the outlet through the hole in the back of the bookcase so the outlet is now in the bottom shelf area. Then use a box extender to increase the depth of the existing box to bring it flush with the back wall of the bookcase and then remount the outlet to the box extender. If you need to add more outlets in the bookcase, you can extend the circuit off any one of the existing boxes as long as you don't exceed the fill capacity of that box. That normally won't be a problem, as the box extender will increases the volume of the box. You can make that extended run out of romex (or conductors in conduit) and run it, properly secured, either through the toe kick of the bookcase, or even up and along the top of the bookcase. You can even run it down through the floor, into your basement, then back up through the floor to where you need it to be. You can make fishing space between the back of the bookcase and the existing wall by screwing furring strips through your drywall and into the wall studs. Then screw your bookcases to the furring strips....See MoreHow to cut drywall holes for electrical stuff
Comments (5)See below I wonder why the electrical was not run before the walls were sheetrocked? I've never seen a code compliant wiring job done without exposing the wiring run areas. Here is a link that might be useful: Sheet rock saw This post was edited by handymac on Mon, Oct 13, 14 at 0:25...See MoreWhat to do about baseboards and electrical outlets?
Comments (10)Since moving the outlets is cost prohibitive, the other option is to do cut outs in the base molding to fit around the outlets. How that is done depends on several things. First, stained or painted base? Either way, the cut outs need to be done before staining or priming/painting. Second, how will the cutouts be done. Simply cutting out to go around the plates will look kinda odd, unless the base molding is a simple rectangular stock. If there is any detail to the top of the molding, some kind of detail needs to be applied to the edges of the cutouts. Could be as simple as a round over or angle routed on the edges. Or a bit more complex with a Roman ogee profile. A third suggestion is to add returns on all the exposed edges made from the base stock. All those ideas will require a lot more work than simply installing the molding as usual. It will have to be cut and altered, primed/stained and finished/painted before installing. It is really nice of the floor guy to include installation, but any of the above means a lot more labor and not what he anticipated. So, discuss how and what would be best for you, and pay the extra labor. It will still be way less than moving the outlets. You might ask if he would prepare the moldings and let you finish, but that would require a second visit, so more labor/time on his part....See More- 16 years ago
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