Do you want to actually talk about why this happens? Quote" Also, observing the caliper and turning or replacing the rotors is all 99% of shops will do if you pay them for it. I'd bet a high percentage of those will screw it up again while putting the wheels back on. " There is a cost for trying to be too cheap, and sure I'll get all kinds of responses where everyone will want to point out how expensive they are sure a shop is, but the facts are that is exactly how pressure has been applied to shops and techs for decades, and has forced auto repair to be artificially under-priced. In short, everyone tries to go too fast and be cheaper than the other guy, and eventually something (quality) has to suffer. Quote" Last time I paid a shop (all ase certified mechanics) to do something for me was to replace the heater core in our '98 durango. Air out the vents has been reduced to zero on the right side, 25% in the center, and to 75% on the left side. In other words, they screwed something up. Was the problem evident right away, and did you go back? Having done several AC/heater repairs on these I can tell you that something doesn't add up and I would have to see this myself in order to get to understand the symptom as you have reported it. Another thing, ASE certification is a start, but to truly be able to work fully with today's cars requires tons of continuing education, and an ever growing expense in equipment. Which again is part of the problem where everyone tries to be too cheap. The shop might have one true master tech, that everyone else has to rely on when problems occur. However did you know there are more lawyers in the state of New Jersey, then there are ASE CMATs in the entire country? Today there are between 600 and 700 registered cars on the street for every CMAT. That number is going to get uglier as my generation retires in the next ten years because the 50+ group makes up more than 70% of the CMATs! Quote" IF we ever get our house sold, and a new one built, and my new shop built, the Durango is going on the rack to be gone through stem to stern by me." If your that capable, instead of building a house that I can't understand the need for, why don't you build a shop, hire AND train techs to work to your high standards and show the rest of us how it should be done. If your as good as you imply you should be able to make a fortune. (sarc*) BTW, prior to doing any brake repairs, one should pull the calipers and gently tighten two wheel nuts, and install a dial indicator and measure the run-out on both sides of the rotor. Mark the high spot on the rotor, and where that high spot is on the hub. Now when the rotor is moved to the lathe, ensure whether the high spot marked on the rotor while it was on the car is still the high spot now that its mounted on the lathe. If it is, your probably good to go, if its not then you need to find and correct for the run-out at the wheel hub assembly. Sometimes that can be as simple as re-indexing the rotor when you put it back on. Other cases require shims that go between the rotor and the hub, or machine the rotor on the car which automatically corrects for run-out. This is what HAS to be done to correct your HHR's issue. Unfortunately, flat rate techs aren't paid to take steps like this, because as you said, some 99% of the time all they do is simply slap on a new rotor, or machine it off the car and stick it back on the car and that is sufficient to solve the problem. But the one time that it isn't we get to see complaints just like yours, its only then that the car moves to the more experienced technician. If you see a tech that measures rotor run-out when assembling every car, you have one who will be slower than average, but have fewer comebacks which means, you should and will pay more than average for his/her work. You cannot call the shop and ask "how much is XXXXXX" first and find them.

I have encountered this problem on many vehicles in the shop i work at and it might be normal for a brake pedal to travel quite a bit when your are at idle in park. However, you would never press the pedal that hard or as far down when driving. You would end up through the windshield for sure. In my experience your particular vehicle has this weird feeling pedal travel when you are idling in park but the brakes perform as they should when driving. Air in the hydraulic system would cause a spongy feeling not a fading pedal, so bleeding is not likely to fix the problem. if there is in fact a failure in the system I would be checking to see if the ABS module is bypassing fluid pressure by blocking off the master cyl. if the pedal is high and firm( no travel) I would then block off the flex hoses and check for pedal height and drop. if this is ok un-block one flex hose at a time and see how much drop if there is a substantial drop at a certain wheel I would verify the hydraulic circuit to that wheel. first by bleeding to see if there is any air. Then I would put my attention to the hydraulic unit. Though I am confident that this is how these vehicles are and you don't have anything to be concerned about. Hope it works out

Crooks101 I read your post and you mention that you will give Miele some time to resolve. I see that you are concerned about the dryer not being made in Germany although it is designed and made by Miele just not in Germany but in the Miele plant that makes commerical washers and dryers, but what is the issue you want resolved and what outcome will please you? I went with Miele products because of their lifetime design intent - the 15 to 20 years design life. which is much better than the current 5 to 7 year lifetime I keep hearing about for appliances. I don't want to replace anything every 5 or 7 years. I have other M appliances that have been trouble free for as much as 10 years. I did not go with Whirlpool even though I had a WP dryer because the build of their current models seems to be weak and not made as well as my older dryer, plus my experience with my last top of the line KitchenAid washer that had 5 repairs in 4 years and ended up to be a piece of trash, and finally I did not trust whirlpool because they now make several other brands so have no real competition. I have been thinking about the made in Germany phrase and wondering what I have been taking this to really mean. What do I want from this? It is made in Germany by pure blooded Germans? It is made in Germany so the design and quality will be good? Can it be designed and made by a German company in their factory in another country? Can it be made in Germany with imigrant workers from other countries who live and work in Germany and will it still be as good? What difference will result if it is designed in Germany but still made by the same company located in an adjacent country? So What does this really mean for me? Sunday/Monday was wash day and so far 8 or 9 loads have been completed. The heavy cotton towel load took about 45 minutes on the turbo extra dry setting. The normal without turbo setting does very well with most cottons and the t shirts that I wear as outter shirts and my polo shirts come out without wrinkles--I like this. I have a few perm press items. These came out great on the delicates setting. All loads have been completed within 20 to 25 minutes( of course the washer is still doing the next load) except the load of heavy cotton towels. Where is the lint? In my other dryer there was a lot of lint. There is some lint from this one but nothing near the amount the older one was creating. There is definitately more air moving and more air sound. My laundry is in the basement so sound is not too much of a concern but after runing a few loads it is not as noticeable when I am in the laundry area. Not sure but perhaps this large volume of air might have something to do with the ability to use lower heat and keep the clothes from wrinkleing as much. The air flucuation may be coming when the clothes fall in the path of the front vent. There was air flunction in my older unit because I could feel it outside, but of course there was also a lower volume of air moving. In any case most of my loads are cotton and nothing needs an iron to it so I am happy. I do think that you are going to hear more noise from flex metal or plastic pipe that is not fastened tightly because the volumn of air will move it. Also if your vent pipe is not following the diameter specified in the installation instructions you are going to have more of a problem. So far so good with this dryer. My next load will be items with a silk blend. I will wait a month or two and see what I think then.

It appears that 3 of the 4 Samoan seedlings sprouts are making some progress with new growth. Don't know why but the 4th one of them seems to be near death, almost completely browned out. :( I've read the strong sun/heat can crack the husk too much and cause the plant to have a reduced resistance to the environment. Maybe sunburn, overwatering, underwatering? Maybe 100% success rate is asking too much. If it dies, I think I'm going to replace it with a Satakentia liukiuensis rather than another coconut palm.