pump keeps stopping when trying to fill gas tank
17 years ago
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- 17 years ago
- 17 years ago
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help sizing pump for stock tank
Comments (7)Sheepco, thanks for the picture and explaining your set-up. That really helps. So pretty, too. I think I'm going to try this "diverter" valve. It's cheap enough to find out I don't like it and get one or 2 gate valves instead (2 would be ideal). I'll post my "review" when I get it going. Now I'm just deciding whether I can work in a pretty stream in the next year. If I think I can - bigger pump! If not, might as well spend the extra $40 on plants. Mamasue, I'm not sure what a TT is either but it sounds like your tank is the same size as mine but your skippy is bigger. I'm not TOO worried about green water. That is to say, I'm willing to let it cycle and be green when it needs to but I was thinking a 20 gal skippy with a 100 gal veggie would be enough. Can I ask you for more info on your bigger pond? What your filters are, how big the 2 pumps are, how long you've had it running? Gee are those enough questions? I'm sure I can come up with more for all of you!:)...See More18.5 hp Briggs with tank above....can I disconnect fuel pump
Comments (14)***"replaced needle and seat but its still happening.....even tho I have a fuel shutoff installed"*** OK, I refer to the last sentence in the post above: "even tho I have a fuel shutoff installed". In that statement, are you saying that you actually installed an inline, manually operated.........fuel shutoff valve? Or are you saying that the carburetor HAS a fuel shutoff valve already incorporated into it? If you mean that you installed an "inline fuel shutoff valve", and the crankcase continues to be filling with gasoline.............then you are either NOT shutting off the valve.............or the valve itself is defective..............or (least likely) you installed the valve between the pump and the carb, and a defective pump is leaking gas into the crankcase. Proper placement of an inline shutoff valve is somewhere between the fuel tank and the fuel filter (this placement also allows for easier replacement of fuel filter in the future). Now, if you meant that the carburetor already has a fuel shutoff valve in it.......................you have fallen into the trap of thinking the device is a "total fuel shutoff valve" along with many other people. The fuel solenoid valve (on carburetors so equipped) DOES NOT shut off all fuel. It only shuts off fuel to the MAIN JET, the pilot or idle jet can still pass a very small volume of fuel............and this small volume of fuel flow will still "drown" an engine crankcase in fuel while the machine is not running....if there is a defect in the needle and seat components. The fuel solenoid is actually called an "anti-afterfire" solenoid valve and its sole purpose is to minimize the occurrence loud backfire bang out the exhaust when shutting down the engine....See Moregas fill up question
Comments (12)First off, tell us what was the "wrong" gasoline, and what is the ecommended "right" fuel. We are making wild guesses here not knowing the facts. If you got a load of E15 (15% ethanol) and your vehicle was not certified for this amount of ethanol, by all means get that diluted with the right stuff as soon as you can. Start refilling your tank when it is 3/4 full and keep adding new fuel until at least the euivalnet of 2 tankfuls have been added. After that, return to your regular refill interval. If you have an older car and you got as much as 3/4 tank of E15, its best to get that pumped out and replaced. It does not have to be competely removed; removing until there is 1/8 tank left should be sufficienta and then refill with the right stuff. A garage may be able to bleed off fuel from the fuel log and thereby eliminate the need for dis-assembly of the fuel tank. The hazard of too much alcohol in the fuel is this: Alcohol causes elastomers to swell and soften. Special materials resistant to alcohols are used in fuel systems certified for high alcohol content. Parts subject to alcohol damage are hoses, seals, float assembly, fuel pump, fuel injectors, and maybe fuel pressure sensor. Addition of alcohol to gasoline lowers fuel mileage because the energy content of alcohol is less than gasoline. If your car got 22 miles per gallon on straight gasoline, a mix with 10% alcohol may lower the mileage by 1 to 2 miles per gallon. By the way, most gasoline available in the US has alcohol these days. Straight gasoline is rare. Now, if you mean the wrong octane was out in, this may have little to no effect. If your engine can use 87 octane and a higher grade was put in, there will be no effect. Contine to refill using your regular refill interval. If your engine requires a mid-grade or premium and the lower, 87 octane was put in, you may experience engine knock. If the knock sensor is working, it will retard ignition to stop knocking when detected. This is a temporary change. The ignition timing will be advanced toward standard setting unless knocking is encountered. Knocking will occur again under increased engine load and the process of retarding ignition and then restoring the setting begins anew. In this case, it is best to get the octane increased as soon as possible. As a poster above mentioned, a quick fix is to add an octane booster to the tank. However, do read the label. DO NOT put in a booster that is not safe for the catalytic converter. If the label does not specifically state the product is safe for catalytic converters, leave it on the shelf. So, what to do if you got a load of low octane fuel and you needed premium grade and you will not be adding an octane booster: While using up the initial bad fill, avoid hard accelerations. Don't get into any "drag races". Begin refilling the tank when 1/4 tank has been used (3/4 full). After 4 such refills, the low octane fuel should be diluted enough for you to return to your regular refill interval....See MoreLoud noise/bang in spring water/pump/pressure tank setup
Comments (10)Thanks for that link - very helpful read. So, I'm still trying to wrap my brain around all this before I go to far. Let me explain. First, I'm trying just to understand how this works. I understand it in theory and in that article but, in our setup, it looks like all it is really servicing is the water spigot on the side of the house. The water comes in from the left, down into the tank and also to the right through the honey well then just... on to the water spigot that comes off the house. That's it. Now, I CAN simply unthread the pipe a bit further down, and then into another pipe right by it, to hook the house to the well water in an emergency - as it was shown and explained to me by the seller. So, is it to keep and regulate pressure to the house, its there just in case of that? That might all make sense to me except, why does it make the bang sound when I use water out in the yard from a different spigot. I can't seem to understand how it is even involved there. I see the one pipe go into it. That's it. So anyway, on to what the article says, and others after I've googled a bunch. So, banging on the side of it, it does sorta sound more thud ish than hollow, so I do wonder if it is water logged. I understand if it is water logged the pump will turn on immediately any time you use the water. That is the case here. It does have the air valve at the top, and air does come out - not water. So that is good. I read I need it to be pre charged to the psi (minus 2) of what the pressure needs to be for the pump to turn on. Or two less than the .. in (something). I can't find the exact term again as I type this but it was in-something. SO now what I'm trying to figure out. How do I find out what that number is, I don't see anything on the pump. Am I to put the pressure valve on the drain at the bottom and see what it is? If it's over pressured or under pressured wouldn't that give a bad reading? Is that what the honeywell is for? It says 50psi It looks like on the right. I don't know what the "diff" is on the left. So, should I turn off the pump, drain everything, drain the tank, then pressurize (or depressurize) the air to 48 psi? Everything I see says this is a simple task and I feel like I'm almost there, almost understanding it... just not quite there yet. One thing I do know for sure, it's a good sign water didn't come out of the air inlet. ;)...See More- 17 years ago
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