I have a 2007 Jeep Patriot and the same thing happened to me recently. I took it to my Mechanic and he confirmed the gas fumes are not venting during the fill up. Cars today have a closed venting system to prevent the fumes from escaping into the atmosphere. Another EPA Mandate to complicate things I guess. Its suppose to collect the fumes, convert it to fuel and burn it off. My Mech troubleshooted it for over an hour, but could not fine the cause. He removed the vent lines between the tank and the collection chamber under the hood, checked the collection chamber, checked the filler tube and found them all to be clear and open. In the end, he felt the issue was coming from s part of gas tank that's not accessible or repairable (Thanks Jeep!) He suggested I take it to Jeep and have them look at it. I decided to suffer with the 20 minute fill-ups, not wanting to spend $1200 on a new gas tank just yet. Tough going when its freezing cold out. That's when I discovered the unconventional, slightly dangerous alternate fix. If I leave the truck running when I pump the gas, she takes it all in like champ! Hey, whats life without a little danger? Filling up this way can trigger the check engine light, but I can reset that. I will share my discovery with my mechanic to see if the new info changes his original assessment. If the diagnose is still replace the tank, I will do the "leave it running" fix for now and do a mini vacay with the $1200 saved. Bob M

We have a pressurized system, uphill drain field. Had it for almost 20 years. When we built our new house the system had to be inspected. We had the septic guys run some enzymes down the lines which is supposed to help keep them clean and further break-up any small solids that could clog the drain holes, it also help keep the drain field from clogging up. It was in perfect condition after 18 years of use, had it pumped once about 10 years ago. Drain fields have a life span, in almost every case (at least in Oregon) you have to have a plan with a secondary drain field in case the original field fails to leach over time. In talking w/the septic guys these are almost never needed with a properly set-up drain field. There is a required amount of feet needed for the drain field and leach lines depending on the size of your tank and amount of bathrooms in the house. Ours is 300 ft, however it can be done in multiple runs, ours T's 3 times on it's way up the hill. And yes, the grass does stay nice and green over the drain field, mostly following the lines. In nearly 20 years we had the alarm go off once, when the input exceeds the outflow and overwhelms the pump. Had some water back up into the laundry room, it was a very minor event. Glad for the alarm! Ours is 1500/500 gallons. The 500 gallon side has the pump. One thing I will mention don't pay attention to ads by Ridex and the like. Our county has asked all residents on septic systems to NOT add any additives to the septic system. A properly used system will have plenty of bacteria and enzymes to break down the solids. Haven't used the stuff in over 10 years (only used it sporadically prior to that). I'm not exactly sure of their reasoning other than it shouldn't need it, maybe it's not good for the soil.

I don't see why not, but up in Mass., who knows? You house could use plus/minus one gallon per hour of use. Another problem is that when the tank runs empty, the filter gets all sludged up and needs replacement. Then you have to bleed the line to the burner and hopefully, it will light on the first shot. Do you see why you should never let the oil tank run empty?

tjdabomb is probably right. This means: 1) you need to check to see if there is anything stuck to the sealing part of the flapper or the porcelain rim it bears against that might prevent complete sealing; or 2) you need to check the chain or whatever it is that connects the flush lever to the flapper (sometimes they get a kink in them and the flapper doesn't go down all the way); or 3) you need to get a new flapper ($5). Toilets are pretty simple,,,you should be able to prove to yourself that the flapper is at fault by pressing down on it and forcing it to seal: the tank should fill up with your hand holding the flapper in place (don't worry...the water is clean!). Please report back after you investigate further. (One other less-likely possibility: I just fixed a neighbor's toilet with this symptom. The nut on the inside of the tank that holds the flush handle in place was a little too tight and the handle would sometimes stay depressed, so I backed it off about a quarter turn so it could move easily and return to the normal position.