I label my starting containers with my storage bottle number and a name (abbreviated if there is not enough room, the number is the best clue since it is listed in my spread sheet with full name and description.) When I transplant I make a label for each new container. This works great for me. Until yesterday. I found one six pack with a corner cell that does not have a label. Dunno if it fell off (not too likely, they have sticky backs) or I forgot to put it on. I have gray hair and perhaps ADD.... The unlabeled cell has Richardson next to it and Julia Child behind it. I think it is Julia Child since I had 3 of them come up. No wait, that is not a PL, and Julia Child is. Richardson is RL, but only 4 came up and I have 4 labled Richardson? One mystery mater (so far) out of 230+. Not bad. I'd consider just tossing it in the compost heap, but I have some that only had one plant of. Guess who will be sitting down with a spread sheet and her baby maters, checking her list and checking them off to try to track down the missing name? Bets

If you have the owner's manual, there should be directions in there on how to get the old bulb out, as well as exactly which model of bulb you need to replace it with. You also can go to your FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store), tell them you have an '05 Blazer, and they can look up which bulb you need. Generally, you will have a bulb holder which either screws into or locks into the back of the headlight itself. It may be kinda tough to get in there unless you move something else a bit. Two words of advice: 1) Don't touch the bulb! Oils from your skin (or grime from the engine, for that matter) will severely reduce the life of the bulb. And 2) Don't buy those stupid blue bulbs. They may look spiffy, but they don't provide as much usable light for you and they are harsh on the eyes of those who have to look at your headlights. I've had good experience with Sylvania's "extended range" or whatever bulbs. They're a strong, clear white.

Bob, I do really enjoy your statements as they are usually just downright funny. And, occasionally I'll respond as I'm about to do here. PCBs are NOT mini-computers. They are simply "printed circuit boards" that are used to mechanically support & electrically connect electronic components. Usually made of materials like FR-4 (woven glass & epoxy) along with copper foil these PCBs by themself have very, very low failure rates. They easily meet Six Sigma standards if you are familiar with that. It is the components placed on the PCBs which typically fail. But I imagine the Bryant engineers know the temperature, voltage, etc ratings of each individual component that goes onto the control board (temp ratings are typically 0 to 70 degrees C for consumer use, -40 to +85 degrees C for industrial use) and don't spec that for installations where temperatures get outside the range. Given it is a control board it probably comes from Honeywell or someone like that & it comes with its own specs which the Bryant engineers then approve for use within their equipment within a given environment. Mini-computers is mostly an obselete term that described a class of computers in the middle range, somewhere between mainframes & PCs. Originated by DEC & others like Data General, Wang, Prime, etc joined in that market those companies pretty much disappeared in the late 80's & 90's. You don't need a highly-controlled environment like computer rooms/labs for the typical control boards to operate as they should as you suggest above. Most microprocessors/microcomputers (like Intel, Motorola, etc) operate fine in the HVAC space. As mentioned above, the primary problem appears to be the "bozo" installation contractor. Maybe that is why you stated "I have replaced just about every common board and sometimes multiple times within a year.".

omnes indoctissimi sumus, sed non omnes indocti earundem rerum we are all very ignorant, but not all ignorant of the same things - Albert Einstein