Esther-based oils are true synths, yes. So are PAOs. I actually don't know which the Mobil and Torco use for a base. I know Mobil is full synth, though - not Group III "severely hydrocracked" mineral oil like many Syntec 4-stroke oils (those should not be called synthetics IMO). It's been a while since I've researched, and I've never really looked at the important test parameters for a 2-cycle oil (for instance, very high flash points are great for a 4-cycle oil but I'd think you'd want a low flash for an oil that is designed to burn in the chamber). But I do know that www.bobistheoilguy.com is the most comprehensive info site for oils, and Mobil and Torco are held in just about the highest esteem among 2-cycle oils there. Amsoil and Redline are generally very highly regarded for sure, and their 2-cycle oils could be just as good. Generally, though, these very small companies have to buy chemicals off the shelf from the very companies they compete against, like Mobil and Shell. So I think the biggest advantages the big boys can have is in the additive packages, and those make a _huge_ difference. With all this said, I'd just say check what they are saying about any given brand of real Group IV or V synthetic 2-cycle. If the test results there are good, then you can be sure you're getting a good oil.

yep, read them years ago. More interested in individual opinions and experiences rather that reports. Don't get me wrong I don't like wasting money changing oil all the time, but I'm no CheapA## either. IMO there is black oil (usually still drips off the dip stick or lets big screw driver tip dipped slip through you fingers) and there is dirty baked black oil and has lost it ability to drip or run IMo (which can no longer be filter very good). Hourly intervals could be too late or too early depending on the conditions, equipment, amount of oil in the system, type, and filtering of the oil IMO. I had friend that never changed his oil only the filter and of course added some to top it off. After about 80K miles he didn't have to change it it changed itself. knowing that would we buy his vehicle??? NOT Me! Course that was years ago, oil and engine design has come alone way since then.. I also knew a guy that drove 1K week or so with dually BBC, but highway conditons. he usually had 8K or more on oil changes. He also when on condition of the oil, which his change intervals were every 2 to 3 months depending on his driving conditions. Course could get the oil analized by lab (cost effective for big rigs, but not for home owner use IMO) which in most cost more than the oil change??? When I say oil related problems that also means no smoke, no knock, no useage.

To put stuff in perspective: Flat tappet cam problems (in automobiles) occurred shortly after SM rated oils had been released. Coincidentally, it was also about the time a large number of substandard Chinese cam blanks were unleashed on companies. Substandard metallurgy doesn't heat treat like it should. I have yet to see any small engine have valve spring pressures that seriously test modern oil. Seriously, half the cams on modern small engines are made of plastic so extreme pressure lubes like ZDDP and moly donÂt really matter as much as they do on cars. A good diesel rated oil will work great in small engines. I know plenty of lawn/small equipment businesses that use Delo and Rotella fleet oil in all of their small engine equipment as well as their trucks. Even SM rated diesel oils (HDEO-Heavy Duty Engine Oils) have a robust additive pack. Unless you run a small engine at full throttle on 100F degree days, they are actually pretty easy on oil. Remember, many small engines don't have filters, so change on schedule. For my personal use, I use German Castrol (0W30) in most of my stuff.

I have no knowledge of synthetic oils, However I have worked in industry for 50 years. In many things there are only a couple of manufacturers of a product, and dozens of rebranders. My first exposure to this was nearly 50 years ago when I listen to a customer explain how much better the store brand milk was than the name brand milk. I listen for about 15 minutes knowing that I had just unloaded the store brand milk from the name brand truck and knew the store brand was bottled in the name brand facility. I know at one time Buick, Olds and Pontiac were assembled on the same production line, sometime three cars coming down the line in that order. (Columbus Ohio Fisher Plant) I use to work in a company that made bulk vitamins, (Bulk means tons). We sold our bulk to many rebranders who put our bulk in their 250 gram bottles and claimed it was better than another customer who also bought our bulk product and put it in his 250 gram bottles. By the way in the case of our Vitamin C the same bulk went into a bottles of fruit fresh. The point is you should be buying products by its specifications, its ingredient list, or other means of comparison, not loyally following a brand.