Many people on this forum and others use PL Roof and Flashing Sealant. It's thick black sealant that seems to adhere well to rubber liner. Others have used black waterfall foam, even though it isn't really designed for that use. I would not use latex caulk. Like Sleeplessinftwayne said, it probably won't harm the fish once it's cured, but the question would be how well would it hold? If you are concerned, you might consider applying a section of excess liner over the seam (maybe a half foot to a foot wide) or perhaps a strip of liner tape and use a different kind of sealant on the edges. Be aware that any bubbles or gaps in the two overlapped edges are prime spots for leaks. I tried overlapping a stream liner once, and it gave me fits until I yanked it out and replaced it. Some people have done it successfully, but I wasn't one of them, ;-).

Oh, oh, oh, me, me, me!!!!! I know this one! 1. Yes, it is, but they don't have to do outside corners just inside corners. 2. PUtting caulk over is like applying a bandaid (that won't stick). caulk doesn't stick well to grout. It will have to be done eventually, why not do it now? 3. It can be harder to apply the grout and dig it out of the corners, but not significantly so. Also, I just learned that with an older style of mud job (rather than cement board) construction the structure would be so secure that you could grout in the corners - there would be no movement therefore no cracking. And yes stick up for yourself and demand they do it. You are not being a *itch. you are just getting what you paid for. Just think you are saving the next guy this guy might do this to from having the same trouble as you (if the tile guy actually learns from this which I doubt). How'd I do Bill/Mongo?

Professional grade silicones such as Dow Corning products are not garbage. I pay @$8 per tube for DowCorning 795. Silicones withstand UV better than polys, however, both will last 30+ years. Good polys, such as sikaflex15LM have 50% joint movement capability while some only have 25%. Other professionals have there preferences as well. Both products are only good 12-15 months after production and should be stored at less than 85 degrees. I have had products break down prior to there expiration dates because the distributors do not quality control storage temperature. This is one area we watch very closely and I respect your asking your question. With silicones there is neutral cure and acid cure. You want neutral cure. Acid cure has a vinegar smell from the acetic acid and over time will eat trough most products such as vinyl. I believe you are also referring to 1 part polys, etc...there is alot more to your question than you may know.We use both products for exterior use when installing vinyl mainly using color as a guide as to what is available.

I'm a contractor in ny who just installed white painted cabinets for a client.. counter top installer just finished installing... the following day along the entire perimeter of cabinets are now a bright neon yellow color??? trying to find why?? obviously there is some sort of chemical reaction between the silicone and the paint. does anyone have any information on this issue please. I can be reached at 631-433-1614 thank you in advance for. Ed