i think i'm getting tired of the eyebrows too. they have their place on some elevations, but i don't think they are called for on my home. one of them would have been on the side of the house over an oval breakfast table, so i thought the eyebrow window and the arch of the table would have looked nice, but not so much so that i want to spend the extra money. the other one was in my master bathroom over a freestanding tub, but I'm certain i don't want it there 2 times more, really!!??

OK, here's what I came up with. Went to Home Cheapo and bought 2 2'x8'x4" white foam boards. Needed 2 to cover the last 20 or so inches. Didn't have any long sheets of paper so I took an old full desk calendar and taped them over the window to create a template (both too the window and too each other). Used a sharpie to trace both the outer edge of the trim as well as the inner edge of the trim. I peeled the template off the window, cut along the outer tracing to reveal the outer shape of the window. I overlayed that to the foamboard and taped it in place. I used a utility knife to make the initial pass, then peeled away the template. Took the board outside and made a full cut thru the board using a drywall saw. BTW...DO THIS OUTSIDE, THE STYROFOAM GOES EVERYWHERE!! I re-layed the template over the board and cut the inner line representing the inside of the window. I wanted that cut to be about 3" of the 4" depth. I then turned the whole thing on its edge and made an end cut with the utility knife to create a rabbetted edge. I knew I couldn't cut a perfect inner shape of the window so I figured an outer edge would allow me to wedge the board into the window. The outer edge would cover the trim, hide any imperfect cuts (thus not letting in any lights thru cracks) and giving me something to gently grab when I want to remove it. It looks good not great. The foam board is a b*tch to cut. It does go EVERYWHERE...think about what those styrofoam packing peanuts do when you open a box. The outer edge is also pretty fragile. But it does block 85% of the light (some does come thru the board itself), and most importantly it cost me $22.

HKO HKO - this is my... 3rd or 4th post on this website. I didn't realize this website was manned by 'retired professionals donating their time to help the poor surfs building in the lower class sectors'. I had no idea the same 5 'retired' architects and designers would reply multiple times with insults about features of a house I'm building that I never asked advice for to begin with. I do NOT share their obsession with windows. I politely stated that on their first round of comments. And hey, I get it. I get on forums to help in my profession (web development). I certainly don't get on there offering to help someone get a script running and then totally rip apart the look of their website. Kind of goes back to "if you don't have anything nice to say...", eh? This post, for example, was about fishing for options for the cantilever. Not being a builder and trying to Google it is what did lead me to the term "EYEBROW PERGOLA" when really what I was reaching for was corbels or brackets/braces. What would have been nice was "Hey, did you consider dentil blocks if you want something to look at in that area?" When I met with one of the guys from the builder he sympathetically offered that and pointed out examples. Wonder why I'm a bit, ungrateful? I had one of the 'helpful retired professionals' here tell me because my husband and I both WANTED our laundry in the garage that "Any new house that has the laundry in a garage, is a poorly designed house. It’s not responding to what you need. " (Thanks, Sophie Wheeler for knowing what my husband and I need, without even meeting with us! You Rock!) I never asked about the bloody windows. And this post was back in May. Move on.

I'm told requires top or wall mount or the shade will sag. I find that hard to believe. Those headrails are made of really strong metal. Mine are 58" wide and the brackets are installed 50" apart from each other. No sagging in the middle. But I wonder if it's a different problem, like if they are side mounted and that heavy, that the headrail would tilt forward? IDK. Did you get more than one opinion? I'm not doubting what the sales person told you, but I just wonder. Another option would be roller shades. Those can definitely be mounted at the edges, even when really long. IDK what the max length is, but your 47" falls well within it. If you want full privacy but allow light in, "light filtering" white shades should do. For the curtains, normally you'd need to support a rod that long in the middle, so that's a conundrum. How DIY do you want to get? Back when I had an extremely tiny budget (my "ramen noodle" college days), I used metal conduit from home depot for curtain rods, with a 1.25" diameter. They're cheap and strong. You can get them to cut it for you. Spray paint it black or soft gold. Buy separate brackets in a matching color, or spray paint those too. If you think you will ever close the drapes, you need to get ones that are relatively light weight. But in your case it sounds like they're just decorative only? So as long as you always keep them open, the long rod with heavy drapes won't sag. (This sounds like such a hack, but long curtain rods can get really expensive so it's a great workaround.) Here are some good instructions, including how to do the finials. If you don't want to do conduit, I have another idea -- it will cost more but not involve spray painting. Let me know!