I cannot address the DIY aspect of your question but I do know that most builders use open cell foam in WNC. NC is considered a "mixed humid climate" so open cell foam is preferred over closed because it breathes. Open cell has a lower R value but is cheaper.

its more difficult of a diy than you'd think.
as you are paying a premium price for the diy
kits..errors are expensive.

better to put foam sheathing boards on exterior
of walls. tape all seams, insulate walls
conventionally & use air tight drywall approach
to interior.
this gives you a thermally superior air tight wall
to interior and exterior.
air sealing & duct sealing are your biggest
savings. make sure ducts are mastic sealed
and not just duct or foil taped.

save your && for foam in the roofline if your
heating system & ducts are inthe attic.
if not..then foam the attic floor.
be aware that average fill of foam is NOT what
you want. average fill means if you average
the low & high spots then you get the R-value
they sold you. its not acceptable. if you are
sold a R-38 value..then it HAS to meet the inches
per R-value requirement. Kvalues & quanitive
values are not recognized by code.
companies can't make up their own values & expect
them to be accepted. its just crazy.

avoid recessed lights. or if you must..
use ICAT insulation contact air tight.
very expensive to retrofit to air tight later,
cheaper per case for ICAT.

pay for a load clac for hvac. not rule of thumb
sizing. oversized unit will short cycle, costing
you more as it pulls more amps for start up.
short cycling willnot remove RH in summer.
bigger is NOT better. size it to fit your more
efficient tighter house.

best of luck.