budget dilemma: keep old whirlpool tub?
lisa_a
12 years ago
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Lynne Reno
12 years agolisa_a
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Whirlpool or air tub?
Comments (18)Wow, thanks! Those are some great prices..... Still expensive mind you, but nearly half price off MSRP puts them almost in my grasp. I'm considering not only the Purist whirlpool/air tubs but also the "Sok" tubs, which don't offer jets, but do have the tiny champagne bubbles that cling to your skin (as seen here).... .....in an easier-to-fit rectangular size, and an infinity edge on all sides which allows you to fill the tub right to the very brim - then step in and stretch out with wild abandon, ignoring the waves of water you just sent cascading over the ledge. Did I mention there's room for two? It's so indulgent, which of course is why I want one! here's a youtube video of a Sok tub in action. Even if I had the room I'm probably do without the larger Sok For Two, which is a whopping 104" long. That tub is shaped for two people facing each other at opposite ends; I prefer the arrangement on the supposedly one-person Sok which is still plenty wide and long enough for two (same width, 75"L) but faces both people the same way. Overstockdeals has the Sok overflowing bath w/champagne bubbles & chromatherapy from $6570. (The Sok for 2 starts at $7,200). The Sok has a strangely uneven tub floor; the part you sit on near the back is a step up from the rest of the tub; not sure I'd like that. They also have the Purist oval tub which overflows mostly in the front (though can all around) but offers whirlpool jets that the Sok lacks, plus the tiny champagne bubbles and optional chroma for $3788. If you want just the bubbles, they have them from $2,794; If you just want the tub - no bubbles, jets, or lights, you can have one for only $988 (!) You'll need to check those prices carefully, because there are lots of configurations, several kinds of bubble systems ("relax", "spa", "massage") and with or without jets or colored lights, etc., so be sure you know what you're ordering. I've also considered the Kohler Riverbath which delivers yet another sensation - most of the jets are at your feet pointing forward, so there's a current in the tub flowing from feet to head, washing over you continuously. 66" or 75" whirlpool round whirpools w/chroma start at $6,477, the more practical rectangular whirlpool w/integral fill and chroma, from $6,918. Lots of scintilating choices here.... MDH, would appreciate any other impressions or advice. How did you mount your tub? i.e. in a large rectangular deck that reaches the walls, or an oval support just large enough for the tub as in the above pictures? Are the parts and labor for building the deck and tiling it expensive? Is the backrest and neckrest comfortable to lean against? Are the rotating back jets therapeutic? Do two fit comfortably? (it's listed as a single person tub, but I'd venture the phone-booth of a shower I have now is also intended for one. Never stopped us :-). Is it difficult to climb over the tub to get in or out, and are any extra bars in place to aid in the effort? Thanks!...See MoreBathtubs ... to keep or not to keep, that is the question...
Comments (13)staceyneil -- what a beautiful transformation! Reminds me (radiator and all!) of my old house, where we did the work ourselves (we were younger then) including taking down cracked, mismatched old tile -- to find horsehair lathe beneath it. And jejvtr, thanks for the thoughts (encouragement!) and the links. I found the Jake Fitzjones one especially intriguing ... wondering how tall a person could shower there?? I will say that the existing sink is in very good condition (I wonder if I could sell it?) but I can't stand the metal screw-on support legs on the front, which are rusted, dated, yuck. (I know I can buy replacements of those, but I don't want that look, with exposed drain, etc.) And I tried to replace the faucet when we bought this house a few years ago (drain is missing, handles very hard to turn when wet, etc.) and found it remarkably hard to get something that was vertically mounted (is that the term?) with a 6 inch spread. Is the moisture question (re a window seat) related to having a cushion on there? There is no exhaust fan in this bath (not required because of the window but it certainly would be helpful to have one ... though the windows are old and poorly fitted and on windy days, we DO have ventilation!) AND... this house has radiant heat. In the CEILINGS. Miles of copper tubing, which actually heats remarkably well despite being nearly 50 years old, but which means any remodeling has to be done with great care. You can't just punch a new hole in the ceiling to add a fan. Now to complicate matters more... I DO have the option, at considerably greater expense (which may make it NOT an option!), to expand this bath another five feet behind the sink wall. There is a fully plumbed closet immediately behind it, which was plumbed when the house was built in case someone wanted to make it into a half bath later on. I didn't see much point in an extra half bath since it would be so small (5' x 5' and the same sloped ceiling) but I could see some advantage to expanding the hall bath to incorporate that space (assuming the wall between them is not load-bearing, which I don't know). So that's a "whole other ball of wax" to consider. (Oh, and the dark block in the lower left of the photo is the edge of a fancy (for 1959) built in heater. We never use it, so plan to try to use the electrical connection already there for the heater to mount a heated towel bar. Definitely not an essential item but it seems like it's just begging to be done... don't you think? :) Here's a fuller view of the sink/window:...See Morewhirlpool tub surround ideas
Comments (9)t-mac: Yes, the deck is 12x12 tiles. I used epoxy grout, which is supposed to resist staining, and have never had trouble keeping it clean. Choosing a grout color other than white would help too, as would using larger tiles, which results in fewer grout lines. If you're budget-conscious, then tile is the cheapest way to go. Your other options would be granite, marble, or solid-surface, all of which cost much more than tile. And there are lots of options in tile that look beautiful (if you didn't like the look of it in your last place). seadog (almost called you fleas :-)): the deck is 9" all around, and we get into it via sit-n-swivel, sans wine glasses. I actually just went and got in it to figure out how I do it. It's more like: sit on deck, sit on lip of tub, swing one leg into tub, swing other leg into tub, sink down into warm bubble bath. If you're particularly short, it might be a bit of a stretch to get over a wide deck, but I'm 5'7" and have no problem. I can also just do the long step in, though I hold onto the sides if I'm doing that. IMO, either 5" or 12" on the front would look fine aesthetically. If you're concerned about the stretch, then I'd say stick with the 5" deck on the front and 12" at the back....See MoreReplace bath tub with jetted tub?
Comments (5)For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job....See MoreUser
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12 years agoLynne Reno
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12 years agoLynne Reno
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3 years ago
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