The leaves make excellent compost makings for the following summer. What Foghorn do is to bag up those shredded (hopefully) leaves in those ugly black plastic bags. They go into a pile out of sight. Foghorn also steal what leaves he can from the neighbors. He tip what he has't to, wrapp some, and hill with dirt, pine bark or other "on sale" mulch stuff. After everything has frozen nice and solid, Foghorn heap the bags on top of the buried canes and between and around the rose bushes. Foghorn rips those black bags off and untips the tipped EARLY in March otherwise Foghorn has one soggy disease ridden mess. Foghorn leaves the mulch and dirt in place in case of the usual visits from Mr. Frost. OK! This year Foghorn got burned by Mr. "Late" Frost. We have the polar winds here and only have a brief January thaw. Just trying to keep everything frozen is our goal. Foghorn think you may have a greater temp variation than we do here in the Mudwest. We keep the excess leaves piled into two bins made from wire fencing material. That might be the best. YMMV! Watch out for those soggy birds!

Are you looking for cane-hardy roses that will make large shrubs? The Canadian Explorer roses fit the bill. The other category is "crown-hardy," roses that will usually survive, grow back, and bloom. These may stay small for the first two flushes each year, while improving slightly from year to year as the root mass grows stronger. Some hybrid teas are usually crown hardy in midwestern zone 5. Most Buck roses and Austin roses are hardier than most hybrid teas. Most modern repeating roses have some tea-china heritage.

I fully understood the posts, I was strictly commenting on not putting an oven next to cabinets... "The problem is, it fits very close to my appliances. it makes for a nice look but I am concerned about the heat and the close proximity of the cabinet. there is no other way to configure these items and I was wondering if there is a way to "protect" the cabinet from heat damage that may occur over time." What exactly didn't I understand when my comments were directly related to the initial post of protecting cabinets from heat????? What didn't I understand based on someone asking how to protect cabinets from heat? And you are correct placing sheetmetal directly on the cabinet surface would transfer heat just as the side of the oven, to properly protect you NEED an air space between the sheetmetal and the cabinet as air is a great insulator and without it the sheetmetal is something else that just gets hot and transfers heat.

Like Bookmarked Yesterday at 9:25AM steve333_gw(5a) agreenthumb, I'm guessing you are thinking of a separate 5gal bucket and heater for each palm. What about coverings, will you be throwing a blanket or the like over the palm/bucket and making it air tight over night when needed? Not being from that area, I am only guessing as to your heating needs. But I would think that if you keep the heater on prior to needing the protection so the water in the bucket is already warm, then it would work (assuming there is some cover to keep the heat in and cold out). The limiting factor is the amount of heat one of those aquarium heaters can put out, and the thermal mass of the water needing to be heated up if it is cold. If you are going to be around for these freeze events, you might be able to skip the heater, and just fill the buckets with hot water from your house at night and cover, and that might be enough to carry it overnight. Another possible solution would be just an old fashion light bulb near the palm with covering. You would need to do some testing to get the right wattage so that it doesn't overheat the tree. Even a few Xmas lights might do it, depending on how cold it gets, how big the trees are, etc. That might be an easier and less costly solution. Again this all depends on how cold these events are and how long they last... Like Bookmark 22 hours ago Edit|Delete agreenthumb Hello Steve...good points...haven't done any tests yet but yes want to make a wood teepee frame with frost blanket material that is breathable and allows ambient light to shine through and also a way to capture the heat being released from the heated bucket so I can keep it on throughout the cold snaps. I am just wanting to dial in the heater so that it can automatically regulate the temperature. At least that's the plan. Like Bookmark 16 hours ago steve333_gw(5a) I suspect you will need some manual control of the venting, regardless of the heat source. The tent of material will likely act as a GH and collect heat on sunny days. It doesn't take long for a tiny space to get well over 100F in the sun (like just a few minutes), even on cool days. Perhaps one side of the tent could fold open for venting? Like Bookmark 11 hours ago Edit|Delete agreenthumb This sounds like I am in for a big learning experience. Not sure how much heat the water bucket will produce and average ambient temperature inside the tent verses the outside temp. Also like you mentioned when the sun does come out how that will effect the temp inside as well. This frost blanket material is breathable but to what extent is the question so tests I will need to conduct...unless anyone else has already been there done that. Like Bookmark 3 hours ago fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX It won't over heat under frost blanket. We use it here all winter on veggies. I've used it to protect figs in winter. Like Bookmark