I bought the Jenn Air 720-0061 LP from Lowes at least 12 or 13 years ago -- must have been around 2005(?) -- I remember that Lowes had a great promotion going on at the time. Anyway - I'm surprised to see the negative experiences reported here (not disputing them at all, just surprised). My own experience has been the opposite. I've had the grill outside in my backyard, and only bothered with the grill cover for part of the first winter. So this grill has lived outside in central NJ for about 13 years. It was excellent for the first few years, after which I noted that the max heat I could obtain seemed to be dropping a bit year by year. This grill actually became something of an fan item on BBQSOURCE-FORUMS.com 13 years ago: you can find threads I participated in back then under the username "Jon". In discussions with others that I "met" on the forum, I learned about proper care of the grill, and a few of us actually got into "modding" the grill as well. The grill itself was made by NexGrill. Maytag owns the Jenn-Air trademark, and licensed it for use with Lowes to promote this product line. (how's THAT for confused branding???). Many many stainless steel grills in the US are actually made by NexGrill or another one of a tiny handful of factories in China that specialize in these. Apparently, the company in the US that sources these from the Chinese factories can spec out the grade of parts used to manufacture their branded product. A lot of the "stainless steel" in products sold here are pretty low grade stainless. For whatever reason, though, it turns out that the Jenn-Air 720-0061 LP from Lowes was built with all high-grade stainless -- and there are no enameled parts. This grill, sitting outside in my yard for 13 years, uncovered, used hundreds of times, has zero rust on it -- none at all. Once I decided that it was worth trying to improve on the cooking temps I was getting with the several-year-old grill, I started by partially dismantling it, removing the stainless steel grids, the "flame tamers" (the deflectors that sit on top of the burners, but under the cooking grids), and the burners themselves -- which are made, btw, out of cast stainless steel. I found that the cooking grids are discolored, but show NO pitting, rust, etc. These are virtually like new with some scrubbing. I cleaned out the Venturi tubes that combine are and gas on its way to the burners: spiders tend to build webs in these, blocking air flow. Once I pulled out the 3 burners, I upended them and tapped them on a large rock: years worth of corroded metal powder came out -- this is natural build up over a period of years, and had also apparently been blocking air/gas flow. The flame tamers (thin steel sheet metal) are definitely corroded -- but usable for now (however, I address this further down in this note). Finally - I decided to try improving further on the max heat situation (you'll see this discussed on the BBQSOURCE-FORUMS in my thread(s) and others). Anyone who knows gas burners already knows this, but I learned that the maximum gas flow is limited by a tiny brass valve orifice: this is a small brass cylinder with a tiny hole in the middle, threaded to fit into the gas line. When you turn the knob on your grill (not the propane tank), the gas flows from the valve and then through the orifice before it can get to the burners. Turns out that if you're a bit handy, increasing the diameter of the orifice every so slightly (we're talking hundredths of an inch increase), enough extra gas flows to yield a significantly hotter flame. I searched the web and found that among all the replacement parts available for this grill, I was able to order 3 brand new brass orifices -- undrilled -- for about $2.50 each (these things are tiny -- about the size of a Tic-Tac). I drilled them out with a hand held drill to a slightly larger opening than the original and then put them and all the other parts back together. All in all, I spend about $7.50 on parts, and put in perhaps 3 hours of labor. In return, I had the original grill -- now several years old -- working better than new, achieving surface temperature of about 650 degrees F. Still all working just fine. I just did another search (Nov 2018) by grill model number, and found that I can STILL get replacement parts for the cooking grid (stainless steel or cast iron -- I prefer steel, but don't need to replace these at all yet), the flame tamers ($60 will get me three of these in stainless steel), and the burners themselves: about $75 each for an exact replacement of the original cast stainless steel items. If the igniters stop working, they can get replaced for $15 to $30 dollars. In essence, my 13 year old grill is still working well, and for perhaps $300 I can replace the burners and flame tamers - which are the ONLY parts showing signs of aging - and make this like new once again. A comparable grill, out of the same quality stainless, would cost far more than that. Admittedly, I'm handy, and like to fix things when I can rather than just trashing and replacing them. This may seem like a bit of a stretch to some readers, but nothing I did was especially difficult, and really wasn't very time consuming at all. Sure - a shiny new grill is always nice, but this one still looks excellent, and works just about like new, after 13 years, with only a small amount of maintenance effort needed. I might replace it -- but I'm wondering how much I'll have to spend to get something that works at least this well, and will last as long as this one has. - Jon

The Wolf has an IR grill and has one temp; really hot. The Bluestar is a flame grill with a 15k btu burner. The Capital grill is a hybrid. It uses an 18k btu burner to create the heat and ceramic rods to distribute the heat for more eveness. Have not used the BS. Most describe it as hot enough.Some say it takes a little long to heat up. The Capital reaches temps upwards of 550 degrees. But temps are variable from low to 550. I don't think there is a real debate about which grill is better in the RNB vs Culinarian just how big is the margin. Re Oven size. When I was looking to buy I took my most used pots/bakeware to see if there was a comination I could put in the BS that would not fit in the CC. Could not find one. Another poster in several threads did the math using standard size bakeware and could not find a combination that fits BS but not CC. The 30" oven is a different story. Re Burner Pattern. I think the BS is prettier but the CC slightly more effective. Forget his handle, but the only GW member that has owned both a BS and CC agrees. Re Simmer It does not seem simmering in the 130-140 degree range unassisted by a simmer plate is that important to you. Re Looks. I find the 30" CC ugly. The proportions are wrong and the fill grate on the rangetop looks like an afterthought. 36"-60" I like them both the same. You like the looks of the CC better for your particular kitchen so advantage CC. Re Quality I think BS has shrunk the gap recently but not eliminated it. The quality issues for Capital seem of the fit and finish variety.Like the grates fitting a little lose on the rangetop(not on the range). And they fixed that problem rather quickly. The BS problems are of the functionaly variety. Like the hot door or the sticky door of the past that seems resolved now. But it seems it took years and CC competition to get that fixed. Re Price. That is the only real stickler in my mind. Even at UMRP I still lean CC. When I was looking to buy I was leaning CC but willing to go BS if I found the right deal. I found a real good deal on a 36" self-clean CC so bought that.IF I would have found a better deal on the BS I would have bought that. Disclaimer. Above is just my opinion. Trying to honestly help and answer avidchef's question. It is fine if you have different opinion. I have no desire to enter into flame war.

Good advice from Ryan. I did something similar to what DaWard is thinking about doing. I found a local contractor that sells Goodman to the public (York, PA). I specked out the 14 SEER heat pump system myself and picked it up at his warehouse. My wife works for a Property Management company so I used them for the install and paid labor only. Labor had a 1 year warranty and the 10 year parts warranty is covered by Goodman because it is a non-internet sale. Paid $2500 for all equipment (R-22 condenser w/Copeland scroll, 3 speed a/h, TXV, heat strips, by-pass humifier, condenser mounting pad) and $1200 for the install = $3700. Almost $2k less than a Trane 14i. 1 year later and so far outstanding. Reduced my kw consumption by 40% compared to my 21 year-old 7 SEER Trane. Puts out great (and cheap) heat in the winter and I can freeze meat in the family room when its 95F outside. I will say that I have a few minor issues with my Goodman: - Sheet metal on hair handler is very flimsy. - Filter rack in air handler is poorly designed so changing the air filter is a surgical procedure. I think that the Goodman is a good basic system, with some flimsy sheet metal, but very few systems fail from flimsey sheet metal. If the compressor and coils hold up, the system should last at least 10 years. I'll find out. Take care.

"Generally, I am being told that my oil furnace is probably at the end of its life, being at least approx. 25 years old and should consider replacing now. The 2nd contractor that wants to replace existing with 4 ton furnace, states that the current one is not large enough to handle the size of the house. The rest, so far, want to add a separate system for upstairs." ----------- When the cooling A-Coil is set directly on top of the furnace the huge oil furnace heat/exchanger causes a lot of restricted back-pressure leading to a big drop in static pressure which reduces the velocity of airflow. That along with possibly improper duct design & return air filter areas would greatly reduce airflow. I am betting a 60K would heat your hone in that climate. Do your own whole house load-calc: http://www.loadcalc.net/ Or/and, do the floors separate. Print the instructions & follow them; including clicking on thr SIZING LINK when load-calc is satisfactory completed...