If you are in a multi-family dwelling in NYC propane tanks are illegal, period. No exceptions. Single unit homes can have small tanks (20lbs or under). I know a curbside vendor using gas needs to complete a training course in order to connecting the hoses, but that may not apply for use in a single family home. It's a whole lot easier & safer to use charcoal with a chimney starter! --benedita

This might sound far fetched but if you're building a new home, you dont need to burn anything to heat and cook and you'd save a tremendous amount of money by not. Geothermal takes energy from the ground and condenses it to make heat for your home. In the summer the system works the other way, takes energy (heat) from your home and sends it back into the ground, to cool your home. It's incredibly efficient and robust. But the cost is high, though federal incentives are still in effect, and some states have them too, in addition. Alternatively, and the option I'm choosing for my home and have more experience with: Mini-split systems / Air Source Heat Pumps. This is the same thing as geothermal, except instead of drilling a well, these use the outside air as its source. Both systems are heat pumps, they move energy from one area to another. Every home has at least one already - The refrigerator! The warm air you feel on your toes when you stand in front of the fridge (closed) is the energy being removed from inside. Air-source heat pumps do the same thing on a larger scale, and in both directions, allowing you to heat & cool your home comfortably even on the coldest and hottest days. Ultimately, it comes down to money. These systems will cost you similar up front to a typical combustion heating system with AC, but your operating costs will be less, sometimes significantly less. And it'll always be safer. There's no exhaust gases with this equipment. The catch? You might need your home to be built with energy efficiency in mind. I would love to chat more if you're interested. This is sort of my passion. The technology is there, and it's economical. I'm currently designing/building my own home that will have no combustion appliances and be 100% electric. And I'm in a cheap natural gas area, too. It'll still be less costly to own and live in.

Not exactly on point, but I had a 500 oil tank underground. We had it dug up, the soil tested (totally clean), and a 275 oil tank installed in basement a few years ago. When I went to sell the house, the real estate agent let out a big sigh when I told him I had the buried tank removed and the space filled in. Buyers didn't want the potential of contamination. I suppled all the documentation they needed. I don't know if it would have been a problem, but I would never do an underground tank, although I loved the 500 gallons. Fewer fill ups.

Instructions for USA tanks only (other countries have different threading). TO PREVENT ANY MISHAP I SUGGEST YOU "EMPTY" THE TANK AS A FIRST STEP. This is done by opening the "what is this thingy valve" (known as the manual emptying valve) - leave it open until you no longer hear any gas escaping. Now close this valve. Step One - close the big wheel valve on top. Turn clockwise (to the right). Step Two - unscrew the small hose from the tank by turning it counterclockwise (to the left). This connector will be likely be "screwed-in" very tightly (so as to prevent any leakage when the tank is full & the line is "open"). Automatic pressure relief is taken care of by the black "snout-like" port seen on the left (and just below) the main top valve. If the interior pressure (gas expands in heat) becomes too great the tank will automatically vent so as to release that pressure. Get the tank filled. Reconnect the small feed line and open the main big wheel valve. TEST THE CONNECTION OF THE FEED LINE by applying liquid dishwashing soap (Dawn etc.) to the connector. The presence of "bubbles" will tell you the connection is not tight enough. Tighten and retest until no bubbles are seen.