Vent a Hood 300 cfm...is this enough?
jroe
16 years ago
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jamesk
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Venting a Bertazzoni 30" gas range: Hood vs microhood?
Comments (1)Is your primary usage going to be boiling eggs and heating water for tea, or serious cooking? If the latter, do you care about odor and grease buildup on the walls and fabrics? Please review the many many ventilation-related threads on this forum to gain increasing perspective on ventilation issues, or download and review the references within the messages stored at my My Clippings. kas...See Morehvac guy suggested 300 cfm vent a hood to avoid mua--thoughts?
Comments (31)It is hard to know where to start here. The flow rate (cfm) is determined by the uprising velocity of the cooking plume effluent and the aperture area of the hood, and not to first order by the BTUs. I would start at 90 times the area in square feet. Baffles will not separate grease from the air at really slow air speeds, so if one intends to go as low as possible, then a mesh that is routinely cleaned is probably better. However, mesh hoods typically have undersized apertures, so capture is degraded at the hood periphery. In other words, the hood is smaller than listed. Baffles will at any speed provide fire blocking, their other purpose. All fans have fan curves, including those made from magic lungs. The fan curve plots flow rate versus pressure drop across the fan, which results from duct friction, duct transition flow disruptions, mesh or baffle restriction, lack of MUA, etc. Typical fan curves are slightly convex, with cfm on the abscissa and pressure on the ordinate. When the pressure drop reaches some maximum, such as an inch or two of water column, the flow reaches zero. At zero pressure drop, the flow is (should be) the rated flow. The pressure drop is never zero in situ. VAH may be counting fan and hood, which can also be the rating used by some others at some times. It depends on whether the rating is for the hood with fan or for the fan only. The VAH rated flow certainly does not include the losses from the ducting and duct transition to the cap at the outside. Unfortunately, unless susceptible to a calibrated measurement, code enforcers will look at the fan rating and not actual flow for enforcing MUA rules. Ideally, they would test for negative house pressure vs. what combustion appliances present are not allowed to exceed without risking back-drafting. The relative loudness and ugliness of outside fans has to be compared to the relative social ugliness of loud inside fans. YMMV. I would not, however, duct to my neighbor's door. Some other path should be adopted. kas...See MoreWeek 117 - To Vent or Not to Vent - What is your hood like?
Comments (46)A guy in my daughter's HOA tried to "ban" my vehicle from parking anywhere in the community other than inside DD's garage because it was an "eyesore." It was an inexpensive Ford, about 10 years old, but no dings, dents, or dirt anywhere. He was over ruled and forced to apologize to me, wherein he mentioned a couple of times how angry his wife was at him, haha! The last HOA community I lived in made us fix two shingles that appeared (to them) to be "out of alignment." Oh, did I mention it was the roof of our DOG HOUSE? Never again. Never. Again. Onto the topic at hand. I currently have a vented hood of indeterminate brand. I'm pretty sure it's the original hood in my 37 yr old home, and I'm positive it's never been cleaned (until I moved in). If you recall, I bought this house from hoarders who never, ever cleaned their house. Even after I paid people to clean the whole range (electric coil stovetop), including the hood, it is the most vile, disgusting thing I've ever seen. It's also frighteningly loud. I'm certain it doesn't pull up anything; not grease, not odors, nothing. When I remodel the kitchen, I'll most likely stay with a vented hood since there's already the hole in the roof. I would reconsider if there wasn't a way to use the same hole. I know this topic has been passionately argued over for years on this forum. And I mean passionate! But I've had the recirculating vents before and, at least in my case, have found them adequate (please don't execute me at dawn for saying that!). There are a couple of secrets to keep them working well, and I assume this would also apply to OTR recirculating micros. First, many of them recirculate the air through a charcoal filter. You have to replace that filter once in a while! :-) Just like furnace or A/C filters, if you never replace them, they get dirty and cease to clean the air; in fact, they make it worse after a while. Second, while you're at it, go ahead and clean the other parts too. If you rent, make the management replace the filter when it's due. For now, my "vent" is the two windows in my kitchen. I happen to think my cooking smells good, so the windows are basically to keep a very sensitive smoke alarm from going off. Russ, where can I order one of those pot roast pillows?...See MoreDo I need make up air with a 300cfm island range hood?
Comments (14)Wow! Some basics are needed here. First, no air goes up the hood, through the duct, and to the outside that didn't get into the house. Seal the house and the hood flows no air. Second, the hood will try to move air and if it can't the house pressure will fall to the zero CFM value at the left edge of the hood blower's fan curve, perhaps a few tenths of an inch of water column. This pressure, and likely the pressures corresponding to a good portion of the fan curve (less the losses from hood filter to outside), can cause back-drafting of combustion appliances. Back-drafting is a carbon monoxide hazard. Some combustion appliances can back-draft at a mere 0.03 inches of water column. Fireplaces are just a bit higher than that number, depending on draft achieved. Third, while low CFM levels may be supplied by the house leakage as make-up air, this is not usually good for the interiors of house walls, and can pull dust into the interior. Fourth, there are many ways to supply make-up air (MUA) and generally some heating of the air is needed (possibly required by code) in northern climes. Fifth, the comments about wall vs. island hoods are valid, but the result is somewhat confusing. Without a back wall, the island hood needs to be larger front-to-back (deeper) to accommodate the rising expanding cooking plumes it is to capture from the rear burners. This larger area still requires the needed flow velocity (90 ft/min suggested), so island hoods will in general require more CFM than the same performance hood mounted to a wall. (Feet per minute equals CFM per square foot of hood entry aperture area.) If drafts are accounted for, including those caused by moving people, the island hood may need to be wider as well as deeper. In some cases, cold MUA can be brought into a room having an oversized heater (think Modine type) and preheated that way. In others, an electric or hydronic heat exchanger may be needed somewhere in the MUA ducting. Low CFM requirements might be addressed by an existing hot air furnace, but usually these are sized for normal house heat loss. In all cases, even in houses with separate MUA for combustion appliances, the MUA configuration should be imagined as having ducting commensurate with that needed for the hood system. Last, all of the above is related to having a hood that removes most of the cooking effluent, leaving the walls clean and the air relatively odor free. As far as I know, there is no Code requirement to keep one's house clean and thus the options of no hood, or of a barely filtered recirculating hood, or a barely useful low CFM exhausting hood are available choices....See Moreweissman
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