Do I need make up air with a 300cfm island range hood?
Shane Williams
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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vinmarks
5 years agoDrB477
5 years agoRelated Discussions
MUA - Make up air for range hood
Comments (19)I think that the OP is on the right track. The make-up air should be as close to the appliance as reasonably possible. That is the way MUA should work for other combustion appliances like water heaters, furnaces, boilers and fireplaces. You don't want unnecessary air changes in the rest of the house or even in the rest of the kitchen just to remove smoke, combustion gas and aerosols from the cook surface. That is just wrong-minded. Opening a window or door is not acceptable because it is too dependent on which way the wind is blowing at that moment. In laboratory design, a number of years ago, the design of fume hoods took a major turn. They used to just suck ambient interior air, a lot of it, up the stack. 20-30 years ago, for a spell, they just started incorporating raw MUA into the hood design. When working in those wonders you are definitely aware of the outside weather because outside air is moving directly over the person working in front of the sash and everything in the hood was exposed to outdoor air conditions. It was a big energy savings, but not so good for the laboratory scientists and their work in some cases. Now there are other solutions. If you are having trouble envisioning what a fume hood looks like, just google it. You will get lots of hits. I sometimes wish I had one at home for cutting onions ;-) Rather than putting the MUA far away from the range it should be as close to the range as possible. The heck with MUA under the range. From my point of view, a lab guy, the most efficient way to build a MUA system would be for the range manufacturers to incorporate MUA into the range design like those now-outdated fume hoods. MUA should probably be supplied all the way around the perimeter of the horizontal surface. As a cook, I can say that I would not want it to be a simple opening around the range surface because that would be a maintenance nightmare. I expect that it might be best located somewhat lower than the horizontal surface in a way that it is easy to clean and does not get spilled into. A system like that would make for a comfortable cook and energy efficiency. The drawbacks of the now-outdated fume hood designs really would not apply to a range/hood system. In those, what you were working on could be very toxic and the process temperature-sensitive. In the case of a kitchen, the design can be a little more loose as far as allowing trace "fumes" from the stove to escape. What you are working on is not temperature-sensitive in the same way as a laboratory procedure....See MoreRange hood and make up air
Comments (4)It's less about whether the codes exist in your area, and more about whether they are enforcing it currently there. Nevertheless, they are there for a reason, and if you ignore them without doing your homework, that 1000 CFM hood could give you carbon monoxide poisoning. How tight is your house? What other gas appliances do you have? Your answers to those questions will determine how crucial makeup air. Makeup air can probably be had for cheaper than you think. All you need is a duct going from outside, either to your kitchen or to your HVAC system, with a damper that triggers when the hood is turned on. Having said all that, I doubt you need 1000 CFM. You could probably get away with 600-700. The rule of thumb is 100 CFM per 10,000 BTU. BTW: The average total BTU for a 30" range is 40K not 60K. Only high end 30" ranges have 60K or more. Here is a link that might be useful: What Is Make-Up Air? (Definitions/Solutions)...See MoreMake up air for small range hood
Comments (3)The only air that will flow out of the hood is that air that can enter the kitchen, so MUA is always necessary. The question is whether accidental MUA is sufficient, or is deliberate MUA needed. Generally at the 300 CFM level (which is more likely a modest 200 CFM actual flow rate), house leakage is deemed adequate for MUA unless the house is very well sealed. I you have combustion appliances, I would keep an eye on back-drafting when the hood blower is running and the house is closed up. A CO sensor may be desirable. Your municipality code enforcement officer can provide information on what regulations are being imposed....See MoreMake up air vent location for range hood?
Comments (16)In order to begin to understand it, you would need to buy ANSI Z21.1 for about $650. There is some very technical engineering, even though it doesn't look like it, in the ventilation between walls of the oven and cooktop sides that ensures that the cabinets up against the range will not get hotter than 194°F. If you block the airflow by lowering the range (some people try modifying the feet for thin countertops that make them less than 36" tall), or putting ducts in for MUA, the outside wall of the range will get hotter. If you force that much extra air through the range, (push or pull) you change the way the gas burns, and create CO problems. Even if you can adjust the air shutters to compensate, you would then have to turn on the entire system just to make a pot of tea, in order to get enough air to get a clean burn. With holes in the floor or back wall, the natural draft intended/engineered to cool the outer walls of the range can be disrupted or diverted, leaving the heat to build up around the range - nothing to do with heat in other areas of the home. What can't tolerate more heat than the wood cabinets around the range? Another separate reason for no holes is the possibility of a gas leak. How much gas do you think that duct will hold, just waiting for someone to create a spark? The testing standards do not say no holes "unless someone thinks of some unusual excuse"....See MoreCharles Ross Homes
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