I had the 48" DCS in my last house. Overall we weren't impressed with the DCS, it needed service a couple of times in the first couple of years (we lived with it for 4). However, the griddle was great, we loved it. It was great for pancakes, toasted sandwiches and reheating pizza! We had the grill, but as vegans didn't use it much, maybe for veggie burgers etc. It did work well and seemed to get as hot as needed. I recently bought the 44" Aga Legacy for my real Victorian remodel. SOOOO unhappy with it that my awesome dealer (Yale Appliance in Boston) offered to take it back (long story). We picked out a 48" Monogram with the griddle today to replace it. We are very lucky that we can move a cabinet and fit the 48" in. I was sold on the Monogram by the chef who works at Yale. He is beyond knowledgable and has no incentive to sell me anything. He pointed out lots of features the Monogram has over the Viking, Wolf etc. I was also shopping ovens, and the size and rolling shelves of the Monogram sealed the deal. GE took the brand back from DCS and really put a lot of thought and engineering into the brand.

Deegeegirl You can remove the grates the two stainless steel surrounds the flavor bar and the burner itself. you should only need to remove 1 screw that being the one that holds the burner in place to the back of the range. once the flavor bar and the burner have been removed you can also take out the triangular piece at the base of the grill. you must be very careful not to touch the ignition bar to the left of the Grill. I would use easy off to remove the burnt on grease. Once clean i would recommend lining the grill box with tin foil making sure to over lap the sides so the stainless steel surrounds trap the tin foil. we also line the center of the burner and the triangular bar across the base. Making sure to cut slits both side of the triangular bar at the base to alow grease to run onto the drip pan. Hope that helps

I also use a grill basket, and I have two - one for fish and one for vegetables. I would probably keep the fish on ice, but I think it's too late for that advice. They would be okay in the fridge as well, but the sooner you cook them, the better. They won't suffer after one day, if they have been kept cold enough. I tend not to season snapper very much, although I sometimes rub it with butter and then a tiny of bit S&P. I've only had fillets - they would probably be easier to grill with the skin on, however. Lemon inside would be good, but I would not use rosemary on fish - it's a bit too strong, but then I'm not a fan of rosemary. Basil and thyme are good, however, as well as lemon. Lars

Your lawn is fine. You might have an envy or patience issue, but the lawn is fine. It may have been winterized too early, too late, or not at all. I would not DO ANYTHING except mow until at least mid April. No fertilizer and no water. My grass has been growing for many weeks in the Texas Hill Country, and I have not watered it yet. I haven't even thought of watering it. In mid April look for weeds. That is the time to spot spray with Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer if you need to. Don't get tempted to use weed n feed products. There are several reasons for that, but to summarize they are not the panacea they claim and they spread a lot of extra chemical you don't need. Wait until Memorial Day to fertilize if you are going to use chemicals. You can apply Milorganite in early May if you like. The reason for not fertilizing now is 1) your grass is not growing yet and the roots have to be active for fertilizer to work, and 2) if you fertilize early in the spring the grass will use up excess stored nutrients and become extremely deficient by mid May. If you wait until late May you can avoid that depletion effect. Fertilize again on Labor Day and again at Thanksgivingish. The last one should go down after the grass has stopped growing but before the winter freeze hits. That date is so flexible I can't tell you more specifically, but it's time to get ready for it in late November. For that app use a high N (low to 0 P and K) fast release fertilizer. The purpose is to push nutrients into the roots but not stimulate tender new grass growth. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. Mulch mow at the mower's highest setting. If that height, for some reason, won't work, then lower it one notch. KBG should generally be mowed high as opposed to low. Fall is the best time by far to seed. Generally KBG never needs to be reseeded unless you want to change to a different KBG variety. Leave it alone for now and reevaluate the color and density in August. Skip the aerator. Let your neighbors do that if they want to. It could very well be that your soil has become hard all the time. Normal soil will become soft when moist and firm up again after a few days and long before it needs more water. If the soil remains hard when moist, then do this. Spray any clear shampoo at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. Follow that up with 1/2 to 1 inch of water to push the shampoo deeper into the soil. Shampoo will reduce the surface tension of water and allow the water to penetrate more deeply into the soil. When that happens it changes the underground environment making it more habitable for the soil microbes. The microbes will soften the soil for you. The shampoo treatment can be repeated if it does not seem considerably softer in 3 weeks. Once you have it softened, it should remain "treated" for years to come. In other words, you'll never need an aerator.