When I lived in OK, I greatly depended on this board for warnings in bad weather. We could not get a signal for our weather radio, none at all. When storms started, our satellite TV would go out and our satellite internet would as well once the storms were on top of us. Long before the storms reached us, the satellite internet would slow way, way down so that we could not view radar online and, often, anything on the weather sites. However, I was usually able load GardenWeb, I guess due to it being ancient software and mostly text. This thread reminds mme I never finished setting up my weather radio here. I started on it a couple of weeks ago but got distracted. I'll do that today! Also, I want to clarify something that I think is causing a misunderstanding between Paula and Susan: When a new thread is posted, it's at the top of the board and will remain there until someone replies to it -- for several days. After that, it will eventually slide down the page. But, when newer threads (not replied to) are posted, the do bump the previous, unreplied-to threads down, one spot at a time. They don't go down and mix into the lower, replied-to threads. They just slide a little, in order of age. Am I making any sense? Cuz it doesn't feel like it. LOL Susan must have seen a couple of newer unreplied-to threads ahead of this unreplied-to thread and thought it had started its slide into history when really it was still stuck at the top, just not the very tip-top. Or maybe not but that's just what I assumed happened. Again, it fees like I'm making no sense. LOL Hopefully, someone knows what I'm trying to say and can translate. After I have more coffee, I won't even know what I was saying! Diane

HELLO AGAIN EVERY ONE, after my post on Sunday I discovered a few typos after I printed my tome out. Additionally I wanted to respond to saydes post. FIRST THE TYPOS-THE MAJOR ONES ANYWAYS: A. When I was talking about using a 6-burner module in a 4-burner range I stated you must " jump small blades 4 and 6 together and then ground them to a screw on the range. Not a big deal." IT SHOULD READ SMALL BLADES 5 AND 6. B. LEGAL DISCLAIMER: "BUT YOU KNOW WHAT YOU GET FOR FEE" SHOULD READ WHAT YOU GET FOR FREE. C. When discussing the procedure to re-build/mount new flat top igniters, item #9, I stated you should put one or two washers under the screw so the igniter sits flat and thus stands straightThe washers should be placed under the old reused mounting flange so the igniter sits flat. The screw will go through the old flange, new washers and into the burner as it did with the old igniter. D. The new flat top igniters will have a mounting flange that sits 90 degrees from where you want the old flange to be glued. This new flange will just sit on both sides of the burner and will not interfere with anything at all. In fact it will probably make the new/rebuilt igniter more stable when attached to the burner. This will be very oblivious to you when you do a dry run as per #6 E. When I was discussing how to figure out which wires ran to which igniters if you got those wires mixed-up I said " the igniter will click, and you will know it is "wire/circuit x" so just mark that on the burner holder. In the next sentence I said plug the igniter wire from burner 3 to small blade 3, test it and you are all done. WELL IN ORDER TO DO THIS TEST TO FIND OUT WHICH WIRE GOES TO WHICH IGNITER ALL THE IGNITER WIRES WOULD HAVE TO BE PLUGGED INTO THE SMALL BLADES AT ONE TIME and YOU WOULD ATTACH THE BIG BLADES ONE AT A TIME, TEST, LABEL(the burner) REMOVE AND GO TO THE NEXT ONE. AS TO THE SMALL BLADES SINCE THEY ARE ALL PLUGGED IN YOU WOULD JUST REARRANGE EACH ONE SO IT WOULD BE ON THE CORRECT BLADE, IE: wire/circuit #1 to small blade # 1, etc NOW AS TO saydes post. There are two distinct problems. One being the igniters, which is the device mounted on the burner which sparks and the second being the ignition module which is the electronic device which produces the energy for the spark and monitors whether or not the burner is still lit. It is very hard to tell from the guybanks web site which ignition module(s) is new or old as the four of them listed, 2 white,( one obviously Invensys) and 2 blue (one of which I know is a Tytronics), all have multiple Viking ranges associated with them. The part I received (PA020042) was labeled as having been made in 2005. However the 4 igniters I received were all made in May of 2008 so I assume these are the new Viking igniters. So to answer your questions: yes, you can fix your Bluestar once and for all using the new Viking "flat top igniters" and Tytronics ignition module. As far as Vikings igniter problem I would say they have it fixed as long as the model you purchase has the flat top igniters. Viking appears to have switched from Invensys ignition modules to Tytronics, so as long as the Tytronics work better or are of a better design or quality then I would thing that problem is solved, although Im not sure if there is a Tytronics replacement for every Viking model. For those of you who dont want to go through the hassle of switching from Invensys to Tytronics, well now you have a place to buy them, somewhat less expensive and much more response( from what some posts say) Guybanks ships orders out in a day or two by USPS.

I agree! I bought my A.R. Hybrid double oven (1 gas & 1 electric) in 2012 and it is now 2024. The gas oven has not worked at all since the igniter was replaced (at my expense $600.00+) under warranty. A.R. sent me the free part! It lasted about 2 months. Technicians refuse to come out because they are not trained or because A.R. does not pay them enough. Both anwers were given. After the warranty expired, technicians were told that the oven weighed over 600 lbs, the model number, the part number, the igniter needed replaced, and that I could not help them remove it. BEFORE they came out, they knew this information, and 6 times we paid for service calls, and $200-300.00 trip charges because they had to drive 17-65 miles, and we were told all 6 times that they could not fix the oven. The did not even pull the oven out. They also did not order the part in advance. The electric oven has design flaws. The broiler comes on too often when baking. Everything burns no matter which rack you use, and the temperature about 50 degrees off. Plus it takes over an hour to preheat to 350 degrees. In the summer, my kitchen gets way too hot. So, every once in a while, I make sure people know to NOT buy an American Range product. I saw this post and I added my 2 cents worth in. I am now using a Breville Air Fryer Pro Smart Oven, and I have had no problems with it. I love how quickly it preheats. I understand why "The Right to Repair" movement started. It is ridiculous that appliances and cars and other things are expected to fail prematurely. Especially, expensive ovens and refrigerators! I have a really old upright deep freezer from the late 50s or early 60s that still works. I have to push a concrete block against the door to keep it closed. I also have an old single door Westinghouse refrigerator that is still working. It belonged to an uncle who lived and worked in Vietnam in the early 60s. When he died,in Vietnam, his company shipped it to the U.S. to his mother. We use it in the garage. I am afraid to buy a new oven. Plus, it is inside an enormous oak cabinet that will probably have to be replaced since a different brand will probably not fit. American Range's lack of quality products is going to cost me a lot of money.

Do not buy from the paint dept. They always break down and are not at all good for anything food. Big box stores for a commercial painter use very low end suppliers...they fall apart so easily and are not at all food safe. Even most of the cheap brushes put together with cheap glues fall apart slowly and you will have brush hairs in your food. Metals in your food. Professional painters/contractors do not use big box stores. Best to just use the high heat from your grill to burn off the carbon build-up. Prepped properly you will not have food stuck all over your grill. If it happens, (like me and my fails so often)... take the grill/grate part out and clean it properly when it is cool. Scrub it any way you want, but rinse it well and pay attention.