What I would suggest is call (203) 393-0010, listen for the prompts, and get in touch with tech services. I've never used Laticrete's system, so I can't speak to differences between it and other systems. But give them a call-- they're pretty good about getting right back to you.

Don't give up!! We installed a heating mat in our last place. Can't remember the brand, but I do know they came in a range of standard sizes, plus custom sizes at additional cost. My hubby installed ours under large format quartzite tiles. We used it for around 2 years before selling our condo, and never had a problem. My MIL has had hers installed now for nearly a decade. Again no problems. It is SO worth it!!! This is one thing you will probably regret not doing. A bit more hassle on your hubby's part will pay off with years and years of enjoyment. Nice and cozy on cold mornings plus floors dry super quickly after messy husbands, wet dogs and kids!! :-)

One post mentioned if I install on top of the plywood, there needs to be a layer of thinset under the mesh..is this the same thing as putting the mat on the plywood, and then troweling on thinset? Or do I need to put a layer on first and let that dry, and then attach the mesh with another layer of thinset? The only system I know of that needs to have thinset under the system before you put it down over the plywood Nuheat. You need to trowel down fresh thinset, lay in the mat (which is basically the same mesh as cheesecloth with the wire running thru it), and then thinset over the top, so that the mat is basically sandwiched in the fresh thinset. I'm not Mongo, but I'll answer anyway. A wet room is a bathroom where the entire floor is waterproofed so that no curb is needed for the shower. It's basically for handicapped showers, and the entire bathroom floor is more or less the shower pan. Is anything bathroom a wet room. Usually only the shower. Is Ditra overkill for a bathroom floor If you don't have a movement problem, or if you don't need to knoch the height down that extra 1/8" that the Ditra gives you in place of cement board, then 1/4" cement board should more than suffice for most ceramic jobs.

Those two steam rooms took me and my stepson from mid-July until mid-September. Believe me when I tell you. I can do perfect. That's not a problem. But it doesn't happen overnight, and it DOES come with a price tag. I did another one back about 10 years ago when I was on payroll for someone else. It was technically speaking, THE most perfect job I've ever done in my life. I started in May, and finished in September-- 4 showers and two tubs. Not even the whole bathrooms-- just the showers and tubs. But the dimensions and installation had to be so exact that the showroom who got us the work thought I was taking too long, so they sent my boss in to help me, being he was the only other one who knew how to do mud. I put him in the maid's quarters, and inside one day, he had the shower up. The following day, I came in, and in big black indelible magic marker letters on the stone the architect had written "tear this [crap] down!" I called the showroom and told them if they pulled that again, I'd quit. They never bothered me again. Unfortunately, though, after the job was done, I was fired for showing up my boss. The only time I've ever been fired in my life. And the kicker is I put him in Architectural Digest with that job. Such is life. :-) But just to give you an idea of how exacting this project was, the first three weeks I was on the job, I was there strictly as a consultant. All I had with me was a tape and level, to show the carpenters, plumber, and electrician, where everything had to go in order for my work to come out right. Here-- you wanna see anal? In two of the showers, one of the walls was the inside of the eaves of the roof. The architect had me take 24x24 tiles and cut them down so that even on that eave wall, where the tile was somewhat angled to the rest of the tiles, it would still line up with the adjoining walls: In this one it's tough to see the eave wall, except by the change in shading, dead ahead in the pic. On the back wall, the 12x12's only go up 3 tiles, and then the tiles are actually 13 5/8" high in order to match up (Yes, I still remember that damn measurement!!) These showers may not look like much but take a close look. You'll see the shower heads fall exactly on a grout joint, the handles are symmetrical in relation to that joint and on a horizontal joint, the floor's been cut into 6x6, where the drain, also 6x6 square takes the place of exactly one piece of tile. The bottom full tile starts at exactly the top of the curb, and there are niches in each that take the place of one full 12x12, with the sides and top overlapping the return pieces into the niche, while the shelf side overlaps the edge of the wall tile. Also, in the showers were the eave walls were, the third course had to fall EXACTLY where the eaves started, and all that had to be worked out BEFORE any of the walls were floated, and just to give you an idea of how out of whack that was, in the bottom shower, the wall on the right, the mud is 2 1/2" thick, as is the bottom of the back wall, in order to get everything to fall properly, while the wall mud on the left wall is barely 5/8" thick. And to think they originally wanted me to do this with DUROCK!! I put up one wall, and the architect changed his mind and we shifted gears!