>the mirror will need to not touch the ledge below it. over time, say 5 years or so, water and cleaning agents will seep up behind the mirror and create a black line at the bottom of the mirror. You need enough space to no allow water to wick up behind the mirror. Kind of puzzled by this. I can see that this would be a big issue for mirrors that come to the countertop, but I have 30 year old mirrors that are actually supported by the backsplash, and they're just now starting to go at the corners, which I don't think has much at all to do with that.

I agree with all of you: they're definitely Hollywood Regency. And I should recharacterize my own style, which is probably better said to be "*in* transition" rather than transitional. (: I do like clean-lined pieces, and our DR set is very Mission; the adjacent LR combines Mission and Art Deco; and our bedroom, where these chairs would go, is your basic Recovering Graduate Student/Random Wedding Present room. So funky/eclectic would fit in just fine there. And there's just something about these chairs... The room is a long rectangle. The half without windows is for the bed (not a bed per se, but rather mattresses on a metal frame) and the dressers, which are mismatched yard sale finds. On the other side of the room, I'd like to create a sitting/reading area next to the windows, with a gorgeous view of the mountains (by far the nicest thing about the room!). We got a red and tan handloomed Peruvian folk-art rug for our wedding, and that's what we'll use to set off the seating area. Also on that side of the room, framing one window, are some slender dark walnut modern-styled bookcases. And then the part I'd like to replace: a heinously ugly loveseat that a friend gave us, also on that side of the room. I'd much rather find some reading chairs and an ottoman than a loveseat anyway; the room's not that big, and the loveseat makes it a pain to open and close the curtains and shades. I agree these chairs don't look too comfortable, so they're probably not my ideal reading chairs. But they'd be good for draping the bathrobe or pulling into the LR for extra seating. I love the idea of velvet, and maybe even the box-pleated skirt -- hadn't thought of that, cool idea, thank you! I agree that they're great in a pattern, but I don't want lots of patterns clashing in my bedroom, I don't think. What would you think of a tan velvet on the back and the bottom of the seat, and then the top, round seat cushion in something like this: Here is a link that might be useful: I'd use this pillow cover to reupholster the seat...

Posted by budgeteer_s (My Page) on Wed, Dec 31, 08 at 18:18 Thanks for all your suggestions. I wanted so much to follow with ci_lantro's suggestion because then I'm done. I'll gladly let you snatch that paint brush out of my hand. ha ha. But at the same time if a little tiling will tie up the project, then I'm game. jodi_socal: I'm a little disappointed when you said fire and ice won't work. I just LOVE that F&I BS. But then agin, I think I know all along it's a little too much for my kitchen. Caryscott & petra: Thanks for the picture petra, it says a thousand words. Is spectralight glass tiles? Prices are pretty reasonable. What about that milk green color? will it work? maybe with some garnet pieces sparingly mixed in. I will take some pictures and post two HD Behr's paint card to aid in the discussion of color. Thanks again ALL! Correction: My tiles were Alfagres: Gema4x4: different from what caryscott posted: I loved what caryscott linked:

That's drastic. Overly drastic. Not to mention something you shouldn't do at once because P is very slow to perk down anyway, and creating a very high P zone at the top of the soil is a bad idea (it'll create a zone where the roots are somewhat blocked from absorbing other nutrients that P antagonizes). Fortunately, due to the pH issue I mention below, this problem never really materializes easily in your soil. I never recommend slamming a soil all at once anyway. It creates the aforementioned zones, which aren't great for the plants, and the microbes in the soil aren't thrilled about it either. Given that your pH is quite high as well, I'd also set your optimal P levels rather high to begin with; P availability is extremely limited at high pH. So personally? I'd target the high range. First off, I'm going to assume that Texas A&M soil tests are OK, I have no direct experience with them (I read Logan for the most part). No, seriously, you'd be surprised and head-to-head test comparisons with known samples varied widely between labs. My mentor used to have a cat about this. Fortunately, P levels are pretty flexible if high and P has to be sky-high to be a major issue. You can use triple superphosphate if you like. You can also use any good starter fertilizer and feed the lawn at the same time--just make sure the first and second numbers are much larger than the third, although potassium isn't one of those nutrients one has to be overly concerned about, either (and if you look at the magnitudes on the graph, we're moving from 4 to about 60 on P, which would move you from 312 to 370 or so on K...not really a noticeable change if we used a high-K fertilizer as well). Personally, I'd go with the starter. It's cheaper overall, will serve two purposes at once, and can be tossed in your spreader and used like any other fertilizer so the hassle quotient is so much lower. Just look for something like 20-27-5 (Scott's brand is around that, but I wouldn't pay for Scott's, any off brand is just as good) so you get a good dose of N (20) and P (27) without paying for K (5) that you don't really require. But if it turns out to be something like (for example) 15-25-15, that's just fine, too. N's good, P's high, and K isn't outrageous. Follow the bag settings. But ask here if you have any questions whatsoever! Zoysia likes between 2 to 4 pounds of nitrogen over the growing season, tapped out pretty regularly when it's warm like any other warm-season grass. So once it's fully back, feed it nicely at bag rate, which should target around 0.8 pounds N (most starter fertilizers do). Then about a quarter way through the season, do it again. At the halfway point, do it again. At the three-quarters point, do it for the last time. You're done. You just applied 2.4 pounds of N, and about 3 pounds of phosphoric acid equivalent (about 0.85 pounds elemental P equivalent) for most starters (but again, let us know the bag rates and we'll translate that). You'll want to re-test next year to see how it's coming along (probably not that well, given the perk-down time on P) and keep going, but over a couple-three years, it'll be along. This is not a fast process. Now, then. I note that none of the minor elements were tested but that you seem good on all other major elements (congrats on that, BTW). Higher-pH soils frequently bind up iron something fierce, so if your zoysia seems light green and disappointing, or, worse, yellow, iron might be to blame. Just something to keep in mind.