Rereading this thread in its entirety -- a trip down memory lane -- reminded me of some web sites with filters on their search function such that when one clicks on enough constraints there are no candidates left to purchase. feisty68's constraints have a similar effect. Thinking that maybe there is some way out of the box, two concepts come to mind to bring up: (a) One can choose a hood with internal blowers (as seemingly required) that has more specified flow than the external duct can handle. In this case, at full power the flow will be low, (or possibly zero, depending on the fan curve shape), but when run at part power to yield an appropriate flow rate for the duct, there should be reasonable flow. Whether this is adequate flow would require some analysis. At partial power the blade tip speed will be less and lower noise should result. For example, a VaH hood with two motor squirrel cage fan assemblies run at part power would likely still expel grease onto their housings as intended. Choked flow, however, may be sooner (CFM-wise) than a similar over-sized conventional blower / baffle system due to the nature of a squirrel-cage blower (as implied by VaH CFM vs. pressure loss data). I wouldn't want to guess which approach was louder at the power setting that was at the point of diminishing returns, CFM-wise. Related to this category is using an inline axial blower designed for higher pressure loss at the desired actual flow rate. Fantech might help here. Such blowers may be noisier, so an in-line silencer on the hood side of the blower might be essential. There are screaming-mimi aerospace fans that can push 1600 CFM through a six-inch duct. (b) The other concept is a hybrid exterior/recirculating hood scheme. I think both Best and VaH have examples of recirculating hoods. In this concept, if the actual systems are so configurable, the path to the filter pack would be split with one branch going outside. When the pressure losses of the exterior duct path rose high enough as blower power increased during heavy cooking, additional flow would be through the filter pack and back into the room. Some recirculating hood users here have commented on effectiveness and noise and their threads might be discovered and checked for relevance. Obviously, the simpler approach here is recirculating without engaging the external ducting. In that case, a separate soffit blower, soffit face register scheme could be used for further kitchen overall ventilation, helpful (slowly) when the oven is opened. kas

I have two Signature Perlick's and it is possible to hear them, but one wouldn't normally do so unless the room is otherwise quiet. However, both of these units are 24 inches deep, so I can't comment on shallower units. One is a 15-inch wide wine reserve (55F), the other a 24-inch beverage center (43F) (one shelf of which I have replaced with a wine shelf). I use the beverage center at the high end of its temperature range for ale and white wines. The various Perlick units differ in the temperature ranges that they can be set within, and also the spacing between the shelves. The refrigerator is the coldest. Note that the glides for wine racks and regular racks are not interchangeable, so don't mix them up. These units have very high quality stainless steel surfaces, inside and out. Mine use wood overlay doors and they are embedded in cabinetry, so the steel is most visible when the door is open. Even top models are not without areas where improvement can be made. First, a scheme like that used by SubZero to set the height of the rear levelers is needed. Otherwise, alignment requires pulling the unit multiple times for adjustment if the floor is not smooth and level. (The floor under mine is tile.) A second area is the installation directions. I thought that that they could be more plainly written, more thorough, and clearer. So far, operation has been flawless. kas

I've got two sets U-line refrigerator drawers in my kitchen, plus a Monogram beverage fridge in an adjoining pantry. Plus, a full-size in a utility room which provides space for the small amount of frozen food that I keep as well as space for party trays and large items on occasion. One of the Ulines is right next to my stove; we insulated the space between the stove and the fridge. When I roast something like a turkey, which means the oven is working for many hours, I see no difference in the fridge, so apparently this isn't a problem. My U-lines are integrated--buy the black ones and have someone make you a facade--my carpenter did it easily. In terms of reliability, I can't say that I am completely happy--all three of my units, U-line and Monogram, required service. In the case of the U-lines, the harnesses were faulty, creating problems with the wiring as the drawers opened and closed. Although one of these incidents was under the warranty periiod, U-line apparently refused to pay the charge. I'm not very good about ranting and raving and following through. . . . The Monogram had a bad thermostat or something like that. It was taken care of under the warranty. So, with all that refrigeratiion, the best performing one is my el cheapo in the utility room. And none are close to as good as the Frigidaire side by side that lasted for more than 40 years. Times change. . . . Which reminds me, that the U-lines have stainless steel interiors and, of course, look awful all the time. Can't imagine why people like this material. Give me enamel any day of the week.

kksmama - I am really liking this layout also. I never thought I'd be able to have an island centered on a large range in this kitchen and am thrilled that it might work. I think I agree about the prep sink being on the island. One good thing about my clean up sink now is I can face people at the peninsula when I'm washing and prepping food, and I'd still be able to do that if the prep sink is here. I'm willing to sacrifice some storage space under the island to allow an 18" overhang on 2 sides so I can fit 4 seats there. Prep space and seating are my main priorities for the island. I'll draw it tonight when I have access to my computer. Sena - I love, love the drawing. Thank you! I will definitely consider a narrow oval table for the banquette. I usually prefer rectangle or round tables, but the oval will probably work better here - more table space than round and doesn't have sharp corners to bang into. Great idea! I'm wondering, if I put the prep sink in the island, 1) where do you think the fridge should go on the DR wall - near the doorway or closer to the range, and 2) which direction should the prep sink face - the fridge/pantry or range wall (I'd like 3 stools facing the range if possible so I'm thinking this may affect placement of sink)?