How can I tell if I have venting to the outside or recirculating?
needsometips08
15 years ago
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muddypond
15 years agoguadalupe
15 years agoRelated Discussions
How can I build in a toaster oven and vent it outside?
Comments (34)First, the toaster oven installation directions should specify the required distances to the side and above for combustable materials. Having a vent hood above is certainly safer than having a cabinet above, which is the usual condition when the oven is placed on a counter. I would recommend against having any doors. Beyond the hazards described above, they probably could be argued to not conform to the typical use of a toaster oven. You are doing an entire kitchen, so a building permit, electrical permit, and plumbing permit are going to be required most places. It is for your own sake that the inspections are performed. The inspector will want to know that the installation is compliant with the manufacturer's instructions for both the toaster oven and the hood, so keep the instructions handy. BTW, I think a modest hood is a good idea. It should be deep enough to extend from the wall to a point beyond the toaster door when open if you want to catch most of the effluent that excapes when the door is opened. It may have to be some minimum height above the oven; check directions before buying. Town and municipality rules typically require permits for everything one does to a residence that relates to electrical, fire, or plumbing. This is usually ignored by homeowners for tiny jobs, such as changing a light switch, even though some may need oversight. Some localities may allow the homeowner to pull the permits for his own house. The inspectors will still expect conformance with all codes. kas...See MoreVent hoods that don't have to be vented outside? do they exist?
Comments (20)Your situation regarding a vent hood mirrors exactly what we had to deal with. Load bearing wall, finished upstairs bathroom, all the plumbing for the bathroom was exactly where we thought we could run the duct work for the vent hood and 8' ceilings. What we did was run 3X10 duct work above the 36" cabinets, vented horizontally to the outside and then covered up the duct work with moldings. We did have to drop the vent hood from 30" above the stove to 27". I was worried about having the vent hood 27" above the stove, but we were in the parameters of what the installation instructions required. The only thing I would have changed was to have a 9" vent hood instead of an 18" vent hood, then I could have had the vent hood 30" above the range, but you know what, it works like a champ. My vent hood is extremely quiet on low and medium low, but does get louder on med high and high. Whatever you choose to do, good luck. I always tell my DH, if they can put a man on the moon, then something is always doable, with some thought, and a woman!!!! Here is a picture of our install. Here is a picture of the finished product....See MoreOTR Micro: Outside Vent MW better than Convertible (vented outside?)
Comments (5)Edited to add: Yes, in your floorplan it's a very short duct that vents outside with no turns so the main issues you need to concern yourself with are CFMs and sones. CFM rating (cubic feet per minute) is what the fan is capable of drawing out of the room and venting out. That is going to vary on model. The higher the better. I believe the highest rating you're going to find on a micro-hood is around 350-400. Also, you want the fan to run as quietly as possible so you're more likely to use it. You need to find out what the sone rating is. Sone rating is a sound measurement; different than the decibel rating. I don't claim to understand it. But the lower the sones the better. Of course, if you're using a stronger fan setting, the sones will always be higher than the lower fan settings. If someone has found a way to explain what the sone ratings mean, I'd love to hear it. I researched all over and found minimal explanations. I was hoping to find a chart that told me that 30-35 sones is similar to the sound level of blah-blah, 35-40 is like blah blah, etc. Couldn't find anything to give me any guidelines. Frustrating. I was glad to find an appliance dealer who had exhaust hoods hooked up in their showroom so I could turn them on and hear them in action. This allowed me to choose one with the appearance and features I wanted, the CFMs I wanted, at a sone level that seemed quiet enough for us to use regularly because it's not too loud and obtrusive. Without being able to listen, i would have felt lost and had to make a by-guess-and-by-golly purchase. I suggest you try to find a place that also allows you to listen to how loud the fans are. Anyway, that is the basics and the best tips I can give you. Hoping someone with more expertise jumps in and expands on my statements or corrects them if I'm mistaken about something....See MoreCan I vent about not having a vent? WWYD to update?
Comments (23)I like my cooktop a bit closer to my sink and on the same counter run so I don't have to carry wet, drippy things across my floor. So I'm not sure I'd like that. I go back-and-forth between sink and cooktop frequently so the longer trek would bug me. If you go with that plan, I can see the peninsula becoming the major prep area instead of the back counter. If you find that's true for you, you will want to move the DW to the other side of the sink. I do think that long, uninterrupted back counter would make a great baking center. But I also think moving the wall ovens next to fridge (or removing them and replacing cooktop with range) would give you better advantages and still give you a baking center. I like Palimpsest's idea better. Again, YMMV....See More
Fori
15 years agochipshot
15 years agoneedsometips08
15 years agouncle_al_tkp
15 years agoya_think
15 years ago
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