Necessary to have dishwasher steam deflector/moisture barrier
chickadee4
10 years ago
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xedos
10 years agosjhockeyfan325
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Where does vapor barrier go?
Comments (13)You don't seem convinced even everyone who bothered to post are on the same page. Let me provide some more details as I have a bona fide case for what is happening in most CBU built showers: My house is built with SIPs (foam and OSB sammich, if you will). The shower was built against one inside wall (basic 2x studs), one outside wall (OSB-foam-OSB), one combi (SIP/studs) wall where the inside/outside walls meet, and glass. The cementboard was installed directly on the studs and OSB with no vapor barrier. When the shower was taken apart, there was no damage to the studs, but there was mold growing on the OSB that was attached directly to the cementboard. When the water penetrated the cementboards, there is space in the stud-built wall cavity for water to diffuse. But the OSB trapped the water and allowed mold to grow. That's why I say you MIGHT be able to get away without a barrier, as most homes are stick built and are just letting the water pass through and diffuse throughout the house. But as homes get tighter and sealed better, it's a crap shoot with a time bomb. My home was custom built with a low volume, "luxury home" builder who was highly recommended by the architect. Even he was unaware of how a shower needs to be properly built. They were even surprised at how wet the deck mud was when they tore the shower apart (DUH! no pre-slope for the shower pan and plugged up weep holes for the drain!) They also had the notion that tile, grout, sealer and cementboards are water/vapor proof. And they never heard of the Tile Council of North America. I was probably as surprised about this as they were about the condition of my shower. I shudder to think at what high speed/high volume track builders are throwing up, especially in the last market....See MoreI have a dishwasher headache
Comments (20)jkom51, another Installer from PC Richards & Sons, came back and installed the moisture strip and managed to move the dishwasher further in so the controls are not showing and only about 6/16th is showing on the top which at least now it does not look like the dishwasher is open. They left two plastic side pieces on my counter and a client who is a friend, asked me what they were. I started to read and it appears that these need to be installed also. I must call PC Richards on Monday. Shame on PC Richards for not making sure their installers read about new dishwasher models so they can install them right the first time. But I am happy with the dishwasher so far and tried it out twice. I love how there is so much room and the layout is nice. I can hear the water entering the dishwasher and I know it is on but it is very quiet compared to my last dishwasher so I am happy about that. jkom51, it sounds like your installers were good and knowledgeable about new products and I would have gladly paid $5 extra for the install IF they did everything right the first time. I am still surprised that I had to pay CASH to the installer for the reducer which to me sounds like it was a planned way for me to pay a tip and make the installation cost more than I had negotiated for....See Moreanybody else have a new dishwasher that stays wet inside?
Comments (151)As others have said, a drying agent, like Jet Dry or Rinse-Aid, is a must. Running the hot water in your sink before starting the dishwasher so that hot water is in the pipes as the dishwasher begins to fill. Finally, cracking open the door once the drying cycle is complete helps as well so that the steam can escape. I've had a Miele since 2015 and, at the time after reading reviews, the reason I purchased it was because it automatically cracks open the door at the end of the drying cycle. I've never had any drying issues with it. At the time it was the only dishwasher that opened the door automatically but I believe more brands do that now....See MoreDishwasher steam damaging counter
Comments (13)Vapor barriers should be installed with most modern DWs if a laminate counter (or butcher block) is used. (Look at the Ikea site countertops specs to get an idea of what I'm talking about). Either seal the underside of the laminate with a good primer like KIlZ for at least a foot on either side, and then topcoat that with whatever you've got leftover that isn't flat paint. Preferably semi gloss made for kitchens and baths, as that usually has a mold inhibitor in it, but plain semi gloss is fine. Or, you can staple 6 mil plastic to the underside of the laminate, covering the staples with caulk, and drape it down over the sides of the DW. You also should encourage as much air flow in your kitchen as possible to dry the moisture that escapes and condenses into water against the vapor barrier. That doesn't mean leaving a gap that sound can escape, but it does mean maybe turning on a ceiling fan, or using the AC in the summer to dry things out as well as using an externally venting fan to let the moisture from cooking escape so the interior air is actually dry enough to evaporate the DW moisture....See Morephilwojo99
10 years agosjhockeyfan325
10 years agophilwojo99
10 years agochickadee4
10 years agoDan Vellucci
2 years ago
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