Nope, I run warm-to-hot cycles all the time and mine is only connected to the cold water line. This is very peculiar and I would like to figure out what you're seeing. The apparent problem was with the fill, not with the heater, right? But it filled when you only called for a cold wash. Very curious.....! I'm pretty sure that all 1918's can be configured to cold fill only. This is probably a really silly question, but when you had the splitter on you did have water supplying both inlets, not just the cold one? The splitter has to run from the cold line to both inlet ports in order for the machine to operate correctly. Or did the machine simply not take in any water from one leg of the splitter? That puzzles me. Are all four of your incoming water line filters clean? If you have another machine that needs hot water you'll need to connect it directly to the hot water line, then attach a splitter to the cold water line. One leg goes to your non-Miele machine's cold inlet, but then the other leg is split again and each of those legs is connected to the Miele. So you'll have to have two splitters to accomplish this. My set-up with Miele and Asko machines is like this: Cold water line attached to the first splitter, then one leg of the first splitter is split again and each of the two legs of the second splitter is attached to an incoming water line on the Miele. The second leg of the first splitter (still with me?) is attached to the Asko which has only one (cold) inlet. I also love the delay wash option, but find it important when doing a delayed wash to make sure the detergent tray is perfectly dry before putting the detergent in. If it's damp the detergent (I use powder) can get sticky and then not fully dump in the wash phase, causing poor rinsing when it finally dissolves in the rinses. I had never had a delay feature but find it much more useful than I imagined. I usually have a load set to finish when I get up; I find it jump starts the day's chores nicely. I'm pretty sure your machine can be set up like mine, we just need to figure it out. Molly~

We bought a maytag mtw6500 6 mos ago. We bought from a local business that must have had it in storage for a LONG time. I have had nothing but headaches since owning it! I believe most of the trouble is because of the HE features! THEY STINK! The reason everything tangles is because there is not enough water to move around in. It also causes the clothes to come out still smelling like new, or like perfume, or BO etc. Called maytag cause clothes tangling, spin tearing laundry apart after 6 mos of using because spins too hard. And clothes not getting clean. Dirt in the form of thin mud left on work clothes, etc. I read & reread manual did ALL possible combinations of washing settings, nothing helped! Maytag said would send repairman but warranty does not cover mileage. We live 40 miles from nearest maytag repairman. It was $1 per mile each way. Soooo....$80 just for him to come. Washer cost $900. Repairman said nothing wrong. After hubby & I made several calls to Maytag they just said washer doing what it's supposed to. I finally said "NO, it's supposed to wash clothes and get them clean! It's not!" They say to send them copy of receipt and will buy back minus $150 for 6 mos use. We will see what really happens.

If there's an Ikea in your area, a local handyman could build you very nice cabs using their stuff, it would have top notch hardware and install easily. You DON'T need to be a carpenter to put Ikea cabs together. If you have an electric screwdriver or drill, you can build a box in half an hour, and build 3 drawers to go inside in 15 minutes. But if you just aren't up for that, you could ask the Ikea if there are any local tradesman that do this regularly. HD and others carry pre-made boxes [not ready to asseble, like Ikea] that aren't hard to install, though from what I've seen they are nearly as expensive as the Ikea ones, but not as well made. For a laundry room, I don't personally think granite is worthwhile. you could either use Ikea, or a pre-laminated piece cut to size from HD or other company. Bear in mind that HD and Lowes can have some decent stuff, but a locally owned store likely carries a slightly higher grade of merchandise-- the big stores are more 'lowest common denominator'. I think your budget is do-able, but you will have to pay some attention, too: seems like the numbers can get crazy fast if you have to have any plumbing or ductwork moved.

I wanted to let you know what I have found with my upstairs front loader over the past several years. I had major issues with vibration too from my 3 year old Kenmore front loader (dishes would fall off my shelves on the first floor). It died 3 weeks out of the extended warranty (isn't that always the case?). I had my husband bring my older model Kenmore front loader from our rental property. It was an older model one and it was really heavy (I would guess 400 pounds). The repairman told me the older ones actually had a rim of cement in them for added weight to dampen the vibrations. Ironically, the old heavy machine doesn't vibrate at all. The extra weight more than dampens the spin cycle vibrations and we don't have any more issues. I would choose the heaviest one I can find next time I buy one. Maybe you can trying weighting it down with a few hundred pounds to see if it improves??? My washer just sits on hardwood. I only do laundry when I am home so I don't worry about a leak. Maybe the key to fixing your machines may be to add weight to it.