exchange it for an advantium. We love our new advantium 220.....it is wonderful.

The 220 Advantium is not approved for under counter installation. The Miele is. That's one of the reasons we picked it.

The speed oven is essentially a 120v micro and 220v oven.
From wikipedia:
The NEMA 14 devices are four-wire grounding devices (hot-hot-neutral-ground) available in ratings from 15 A to 60 A. Of the straight-blade NEMA 14 devices, only the 14�30 and 14�50 are common. The 14�30 is used for electric clothes dryers and the 14�50 for electric cooking ranges. The voltage rating is 250 V.

All NEMA 14 devices offer two hots, a neutral and a ground, allowing for both 120 V and 240 V (or 120 V and 208 V if the supply system is three-phase rather than split phase). The 14�30 has a rating of 30 A and an L-shaped neutral blade. The 14�50 has a rating of 50 A and a straight neutral blade sized so that it will not fit in the slot of a 14�30.

Your recepticle in wall should be a 14-50 and is an easy change to a 14-30 to match the Miele plug. You can swap the fuse from a 50 to a 30 at the box. This is a good question for the electrical forum. Call Miele tech support about shortening the cord.

Thank you Dan and Antss

Well we do have a dedicated 20 Amp line but the wrong box. I think my DH (the bozo electrician -- he just loved it when I showed him your response Antss) did look at the instructions and put in the right line but still was surprised by the big plug. I think Miele assumes that this oven is going in as a replacement for an electric oven. In fact the old electric oven that we took out (on the other side of the room) had a plug like this. He used its dedicated power line and moved it around to where the Miele will be installed. But he didn't expect to see this plug on the Miele. Anyway I think he is over the bridge about needing to get the correct receptacle per your note. So thank you!!!

Dan, we probably will talk to Miele about whether we can shorten the 7.2 foot cord -- because there is probably no way it will all fit in there behind the unit.

dan - what makes you think they have a 50 amp anything there?

saydee - what kind of box is there? A correct box for 220v should easily accommodate the 14-30r. Miele will almost surely not advise you to shorten the cord, will probably mention warranty. If you allowed 23" depth it should fit 7' and all. Some of that sits on top of the oven. If you/ he decides to shorten it, email me. I think it's funny that he expected one thing, but found another. In all fairness, I almost always have to look in a book when a NEMA xx-xx is called for, there are several dozen configs. I also can't tell you how many electricians get beet red on install day at jobs we don't manage when I show them the spec sheet, the install manual , and the email from us telling them EXACTLY how to prepare for this appliance or that. Bla, bla, bla this ain't our first rodeo really stings when it's flung right back at you in front of the contractor, other trades and/or the homeowner.

Moral - read and understand the specifications for your appliances before install day and don't throw away the manual the second it comes out of the box!

BTW - what older oven did you have that had a plug on the end of it? Very few have them out of the box and the NEC doesn't allow you add a plug to an appliance "whip" as far as I know. In fact Miele is the only one I know of that does.

Antss, you're right. I asked my DH about the plug on the oven (he had told me it had one) and now he says it was hardwired, no plug It was a circa 1978 Whirlpool electric wall oven.

Thanks again for your responses. I think we have some rework to do.

Sayde -- thank you *very much* for this information. And dan for the info and antsss for all the caution about bozo-headed work, etc. There are so many red faces around here on a daily basis, related and otherwise, that this general warning will be very helpful. I have been saving spec sheets and manuals in a special file but hadn't thought I needed to read up on them in advance myself. But between reading of others' divet-installer stories and meshing them with my own reprobate workers, I'm beginning to think it would be folly to expect so much as a lightbulb to be changed properly much less a 240V appliance installed.

How does anyone survive this process????

Spa , booze, meds, chanting this will be awesome , this will be awesome- one day.

I believe the problem the NFPA has with adding plugs to whips is that the plugs are typically rated for 90C and the whip conductors that are used nowadays to save copper are typically rated at 120C. In theory, the wire could get hot enough to exceed the design temperature of the plug.

This trivial copper saving pushes an added cost onto the consumer because there is supposed to be a disconnecting means where it can be seen from the appliance (for safe repair). Ideally (to the NFPA), this would be a breaker box in the kitchen. A lock-out scheme somewhere else would also work. However, a plug and receptacle is the obvious less costly, most convenient, least unaesthetic approach.

Older '60s and '70s ranges typically used cords with plugs that were attached to screw terminals at the back of the range, similar to dryers of that day.

kas

Hi,

We just ran into this issue and I found this information very useful. Our electrician obviously missed the NEMA 14-30P specification but what is still confusing is that the installation sheet on the Miele website says NEMA 14-30P, L1, L2, N, G, 20 amp, 208/240VAC but the installation guide that came in the box says 120/240 V, 30A, 60Hz, where one says 20 amp and the other says 30A. The unti definitely needs a 20 A circuit so why discrepancy?

Ziba

I'm not sure there is a discrepancy. The NEMA 14-30P is rated for 30A, but doesn't have to be used on a 30A circuit. The plug and receptacle may be necessary to provide the required margin. What does the installation manual specify the requirement for the circuit breaker to be?

If the unit actually draws 20A steady state, a 20A breaker is too low in current capacity to meet the 80% steady-state limit. There are conditions where 12 AWG conductors can meet code for 20A draw, in others 10AWG may be needed over maximum ambient temperature. This is why your electrician gets the big bucks; he has to know how to use the myriad table entries of NFPA 70 to be code compliant.

Of course, if the actual load is lower than 20A and the installation manual calls for a 20A circuit, then that determines what breaker should be supplied. If wiring from scratch, wire gauge larger than AWG 12 can be desirable for longer runs to minimize voltage drop.

kas