If they are boxed roses in the square box they are bare root planted in a growing medium. While many suggest removing them from the box and soaking for a few days, I recommend poking holes in the box and soaking the box and all until the box is completely saturated. While in the box, tiny feeder roots have begun to grow. Removing them from the box also removes the feeder roots. The intent of the box is to plant it, box and all, to prevent disturbing the developing roots and eliminate the stress to the plant caused when planting a bare root. But, experience has shown the dry box will still be identifible two-three years down the road. It often contains the roots and prevents them from growing into the surrounding soil. Not so if you poke holes in it and completely saturate the box by soaking. The more surface exposed to the soil, the faster the box decomposes. Those I plant that way are completely decomposed by the end of the first season in the ground. Saturating means water the plant should have is not soaked up by the box. Being wet helps it break down faster also. As a bonus, any feeder roots formed already will not be disturbed lessening transplant shock and stress. Usually new top growth will not be affected or need to be removed. If you plan on keeping the boxed roses for awhile before planting, poke a small hole in the top and water it. The box will become wet and sag some but the growing medium will not dry out. I've seen unsold boxed roses in the original box in mid June, four to five feet tall and blooming. Unlike body bagged roses, boxed roses will root absorbing the nutrients in the growing medium.

I agree - I think I would plant the monarda now (or at least some of it) and overwinter the lavender and any remaining monarda in the jugs. Or maybe you can replant into a bigger container. But I wouldn't leave it outside. Let it go dormant and then bring into an unheated garage where it can remain dormant until spring. You might have to water once or twice during the winter (probably only once if you water when you bring it in - and watch the watering with the lavender). I've had winter-sown perennials spend several winters in the same jug in my garage! In particular some columbines and rudbeckias that I just never got around to planting. Just threw the jug bottom with the plants in the garage with the rest of my potted perennials and they made it through winter. Dee

I would still be tempted to cut the plant back severely. If the plant is that newly planted and already that tall and leafing out at the top, it should be able to put out new foliage at the crown if not put out shoots from the vines you leave behind. The plant definitely has nodes all along the stem. Whether you see buds at those nodes is another question. Just realize that there might be dormant buds that will be called into play if you prune it. If you don't risk the pruning, you run the risk of having a single stemmed clematis that will have bare legs up to the point of where it is currently leafing out.

Do you know what kind of a turtle or was it actually a tortise? The chicken wire is the best protection but make it turn down into the ground as much as possible 6" min if possible. leave the top bowed a little so as there is room for the hatchlings. I'm looking for a female Eastern Box for my big male. Either trade or on loan or a swap for offspring or other offers. We have plenty of room 30'x20' of herpifolia! email direct if desired clparks@patmedia.net or 908-295-1441 or send me your number -my telco is free! Thanks...