Common terminology is so lacking in some areas of mathematics. And topology uses words that have an entirely different meaning for a mathematician than it does for a non-mathematician. Take the word manifold. Topology can be considered a sub grouping of multi dimensional geometry. You know, a space that might have 3, 4, 5, or more dimension. Most people have been taught that we live in a 3 dimensional world. We don't, we just aren't equiped to "see" the higher dimension. Mathematical dimensions, not science fiction dimensions. Different animals, they are. Solid shapes that can be transformed into a different shape without damage or breaks to the material is the subject of topology. Topology rarely deals in pure numbers. That's why a lot of mathematicians have a problem with studying it. It's like in high school geometry when you did proofs. You didn't do it with numbers, you did it with using specialized language, and symbols that were beyond Greek. Topology carries this concept further, to the nth degree, so to speak. Some of you may now realize why I describe math as a language. Sorry if I haven't answered about the Poincaré conjecture. I don't know. Wednesdays are my true 9-to-9 days this semester. Didn't think it would leave me so tired.

Ahhh, semantics!!! Well, Eleven, I think you interpreted his meaning as the "second photo credited to Bob Axmear" when what he said was "the second photo," which was by Bob Axmear. I can see the FOURTH PHOTO of Osprey, which happens to be the "second photo by Bob Axmear" as you interpreted it, and those are young plants in small nursery containers. But the actual photo #2, it looks like Blue Cadet, and it is still blue, not gone green. Don't you just love playing with words? :) And HH, is your Osprey the same size as Blue Cadet? I have no idea the size of the leaf or the hosta in your personal photo.Plus, Osprey in the MYHOSTAS.BE says it is by Eric Smith.....but maybe you already knew that, and just hoped that the esteemed Mr. Pollock would reveal the rest of its story?

Thanks Rachel - My only regret is that the photo is not more of a close-up, and not larger; but we were so taken by surprise by the whole thing, we were incredibly lucky! For someone new to birdwatching it was especially awe-inspiring.

There will be a bit of ambiguity in my answers...because there's no true right or wrong way. But here I go anyway: 1. Is the decision to go with epoxy or non-epoxy grout based primarily on resistance to mold and/or staining or is one type better than the other as far as preventing water penetration? Epoxy grout will allow less water penetration than a cement-based grout. Being non-porous, it'll also be less liable to staining. I consider epoxy to be overkill in residential showers, unless you're into dying your hair in the shower, etc. One other thing, you have a kerdi shower. That will limit water penetration, so it's sort of one more reason that epoxy could be considered overkill. 2. If we don't go with an epoxy grout in the shower, would the Polyblend grout used on the floor be suitable or would you recommend something different? Polyblend or any other manufacturer's cement based grouts would be fine. I use product from several manufacturers. Some people are preferential to just one manufacturer. 3. I think I'm confusing "caulk" and "silicone"... Are they used in the same applications? If not, what is the difference? Think of silicon as a type of caulk. There are, in general, three types of caulk typically used in residential shower construction; latex, siliconized-latex, and silicon. Latex is easy to work with, but the least durable and the most prone to mold and mildew staining. Silicon is the most difficult to work with, but has the best water-repellent capabilities. Siliconized-latex is a hybrid, it's in between the other two. In a well-built shower, any of the three could work fine, though I usually use caulks with some silicone in them, either S-L or 100% silicon. Look for a caulk that is color and texture matched to your grout, that way the caulk will look like your grout. Some 100% silicon's are only offered in color-match, but not texture. Since you mentioned Polyblend, here's a link to Custom's Color Matched Caulk. 4. Is caulk and/or silicone necessary in a Kerdi shower? I have nightmares about mold forming on my caulk (or silicone?) and having to tear it all out. The only proper way to avoid caulk completely is to do a floated mud shower with reinforced corners. Other than that, properly pitched surfaces, proper ventilation, and 100% silicon caulk will give you the best chance. 5. If we do caulk/silicone, I've heard that it should be done at every change of plane. Would this include areas that would not be taking a direct hit with water or having standing water on them? Correct. In lightweight shower construction (tile backer board over wood framing, for example), adjacent surfaces can move independently of one another. Caulk will flex. Grout could crack. Now you have a Kerdi shower, that works in your favor, as water can only penetrate to the membrane. But in general, yes, for lightweight construction, caulk all changes in plane. 6. Specifically which product would you recommend? A caulk that is color and possibly texture (sanded or unsanded) matched to your grout. A caulk that has some silicon in it. So the brand of caulk could be related to the brand of grout used if your goal is to color match. 7. Although our tile is porcelain, we are using a travertine base molding that has many nooks and crannies that will need to be filled. I understand that they get filled in by grout. This base molding is lighter that our wall and floor tiles and the matching grout that we're using there. Can I use a lighter grout for just the base moldings? Yes, you can change grout colors within the wall itself. 8. Finally, would you recommend sealing everything once it is done? Or just sealing the travertine pieces? I'd just seal the travertine. Porcelain is already non-porous. Sealing grout can be an adventure within itself. Regardless, use a penetrating, vapor-permeable sealer.