I'm a little skeptical about those, especially the second, but I'll defer to someone who knows that section of the genus better than I do. Q. virginiana can have toothed margins, but I thought it was way more common in Q. fusiformis. Anyhow, the new 'fundamentalist' (LOL) form of natives advocacy is that you only plant natives that literally come from the surrounding ecoregion, so neither of those 'belong' in Baltimore if that is the reason they are being promoted; e.g., I first bought Stenanthium gramineum at the erstwhile New England Wildflower Conservancy around 2008 or so (I refuse to keep track of these non-profits that can't stop changing their names), but the last time I was there circa 2016 (or was it 2022 - how the years fly by LOL) they said they no longer carried it because "it's not native to New England". [btw since you're new here, I don't mean that at all as a critique of you if you had them planted in your yard. I'm just bemused how whoever runs that Midtown outfit hasn't 'gotten with the program'. I don't care to investigate what the grand poobahs of Native Supremacy have to say about this topic, like Dr. Tallamy. If one wanted a fully reliable evergreen 'oak' in Baltimore, I'd argue one would be better off with Lithocarpus henryi or Quercus myrsinifolia. But we will see how these native live oaks do, long term. The death of the Udel live oak is a cautionary tale for them anywhere along the east coast north of where they naturally occur, in my opinion...which is southeastern Virginia. And even there, as I pointed out, you very seldom see - for some reason - the massive, stately examples found SC or the Gulf States. Even if they 'survive' up here, a bad winter leaves you staring at a severely blasted, brown, half-dead-looking skeleton for a third of the year.]

Hi- home depot, lowes both do custom lines, there is cabinet discounters which I have heard and see good things in currently looking into myself. Maybe ask around if you see someone with a nice kitchen.

Mike: I keep all mine in a coolish garage, with not very good light. So, the coldest it gets on the concrete floor is probably around 45 degrees. On sunny days it can warm up to 65ºF. But if you have a sunny, warm greenhouse, your good! They'll keep growing and probably bloom earlier. Good for you, using Madison. I like their selection. And you've really got to pounce on some of these varieties because they seem to sell out quickly. I'd rather use them than 4 Winds, since Madison is East Coast and shipping takes much less time. What is the mandarin you added pics of? I've had no problem with Harris citrus, it's just that they have so few varieties right now. I even got a tiny Logees 'Shasta Gold' to grow well. Their small plants can be a challenge. But I couldn't find it anywhere else at the time.

Beyond the safety issues expressed in the code, no air leaves the kitchen via the hood system that isn't replaced somehow. One can't just drain the house volume of air. Further, if the hood system has to lower the house pressure to get enough air from house leakage, the hood air flow rate will be degraded, and stuff in the walls may find its way into the living areas. If you search this forum for "MUA" you will find various ideas and conditions for adopting them. Depending on the type of combustion appliances in your house that are within the "air barrier," you may need a blower-driven MUA path (active MUA) or a large duct (passive MUA). Both will need some form of heating and filtering. You may notice that active vs. passive is not explicitly called out in the code text listed above, nor is there an explicit demand for a particular pressure balance. Once review of the material here leads you to feel comfortable with the issues, you might want to discuss your MUA system plan with your local code enforcement to ensure that you are both on the same page. Alternatively, finding an informed HVAC contractor may be sufficient.