Well, as promised, here are a few photos: First one is the solid green mother plant: Second is the stolon and its branches: Third is a closeup of the mostly white baby on the stolon: And another: And a closeup of one of the leaves. Its kinda blurry, but I think you can get the idea. Notice how the verigation on the leaves that do have some green, is very odd? Its not even close to your typical white edges w/ green centers, or green edges w/ white centers. Is way more stripped, and the stripes are uneven, and different on each leaf. The mostly white leaves are white , save for a thin green strip on the very edges. I would be happy to give some of these away, once the plant matures and produces more. These are still very young. The stolon has not even bloomed yet, and there is not a single sign of ariel roots forming on the babys. I usually will not remove the babys until they have well formed arial roots. The top photo, was the "big green baby" that was still on the mother plant, and had massive ariel roots. I placed it in water and within a week it started producing the big fat white, hairy roots (soil roots). Ill try to post a few more pics of my other spider plant today. The babay that is on that was is getting very big, and has a good set of ariel roots beginning to grow. however, that baby already has been promised to someone. =o( That plant is mostly gree, with white and yellow verigation on the very edges of its leaves. The baby it has produced is just about identical, maybe alittle more yellow in its verigation.

Sorry to tell you this, but it may be too late. I think the black leaves are rotting. This is a plant that should be in plastic, not clay to help conserve the water; but should be allowed to dry out btwn waterings. I suspect you've overwatered it. Also, it's not such a fan of direct sun, I think it'd prefer more bright but indirect light, not direct sun. I'm not trying to be mean, but don't know why you felt the need to change the mix (I don't know what indoor/outdoor soil is) or the type of pot, when it seems you folks were too new at this to know what/why you were doing this. Cut all the black stuff off & pls., STOP WATERING FOR at least 7 days & let the plant try to recover. If it starts to smell bad, I'd say you're too late. Perhaps do some reading up on general houseplant care BEFORE buying & or repotting other plants. Also FYI, it's generally customary here to start a new thread when it's a different question. Hers was abt the babies, yours is for general help. I hope the plant makes it!

I wrote this a few years ago: Neem Extract as an Insecticide In India mainly, but also Asia and Africa, grows a tree all plant enthusiasts should be aware of, Azadirachta indica, commonly known as the "neem" tree, and a relative of mahogany. Extracts from the tree’s seeds contain azadirachtin, a relatively safe and effective naturally occurring organic insecticide. Let me preface the comments following, by reminding you that the terms "naturally occurring and/or organic" do not universally mean safe. Pyrethrums, rotenone, and even the very dangerous nicotine are all organic insecticides that should be handled with great caution. Neem extracts, on the other hand are very safely used in a wide variety of cosmetics, as a topical treatment for minor wounds, as an insecticide in grain storage containers, bins, and bags, and a whole host of other applications. Neem is very safe for use around birds & mammals. I'll limit this discussion to its use as an insecticide. Neem works in many ways. It is effective both in topical and a systemic applications. It is an anti-feedant, an oviposition deterrent (anti-egg laying), a growth inhibitor, a mating disrupter, and a chemosterilizer. Azadirachtin, a tetranortriterpenoid compound, closely mimics the hormone ecdysone, which is necessary for reproduction in insects. When present, it takes the place of the real hormone and thus disrupts not only the feeding process, but the metamorphic transition as well, disrupting molting. It interferes with the formation of chitin (insect "skin") and stops pupation in larvae, thus short-circuiting the insect life cycle. It also inhibits flight ability, helping stop insect spread geographically Tests have shown that azadirachtin is effective in some cases at concentrations as low as 1 ppm, but some producers use alcohol in the extraction of neem oil from plant parts which causes the azadirachtin to be removed from the oil. Some products touting neem oil as an ingredient actually have no measurable amounts of azadiractin. I use what is referred to either as cold pressed or virgin neem oil. You may also occasionally find it referred to as "raw" neem or "crude" neem oil. Neem oil is most often used in an aqueous (water) suspension as a foliar spray or soil drench. Commonly, it is diluted to about a .5 to 2% solution, but the suggested ratio for use in container plant culture is 1 tsp. per quart of warm water. A drop or two of dish soap (castile or olive oil soap is best) helps keep the oil emulsified. The mixture is then applied as a mist to all leaf and bark surfaces and as a soil drench to the tree's root system. It should not be applied as a foliar spray on hot days or in bright sun as leaf burn may occur. Remember to agitate the container frequently as you apply and do not mix anymore than you will use in one day. Neem breaks down rapidly in water and/ or sunlight. Some users of insecticides feel the need to observe the instant results of their efforts in order to be convinced of the effectiveness of what they are using. The application of neem derivatives does not provide this immediate gratification. There is virtually no knockdown (instant death) factor associated with its use. Insects ingesting or contacting neem usually take about 3 - 14 days to die. Its greatest benefit; however, is in preventing the occurrence of future generations. It is also interesting to note that in studies it was found that when doses were given, purposefully insufficient to cause death or complete disruption of the metamorphic cycle, up to 30 surviving generations showed virtually no resistance/ immunity to normal lethal doses, so it appears that insects build no ‘resistance’ to azadiractin. I have been using neem oil for five years as both a preventative and fixative and have had no insect problems on my container plants. Applications of cold-pressed neem oil are most effective for use on mites, whitefly, aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, beetles, mealy bugs, leaf miners, g-moth, and others. It seems to be fairly specific in attacking insects with piercing or rasping mouth parts. Since these are the pests that feed on plant tissues, they are our main target species. Unless beneficial like spiders, lady beetles, certain wasps, etc., come in direct contact with spray, it does little to diminish their numbers. Neem oil does have an odor that might be described as similar to that of an old onion, so you may wish to test it first, if you intend to use it indoors. I've found the odor dissipates in a day or two. As always, read and follow label instructions carefully. Neem oil can be purchased from many net or local sources. My favorite brand is Dyna-Gro, pure, cold-pressed neem oil. If you have trouble locating a source, you can contact me via the forum or directly. AL

I agree with Kasha,if it aint broke,don't fix it.Over the years,I have had some brugs do this,and they sort themselves out after a while. Don't take the leaves off,as long as they are green and produce food for the plant,they are ok.When it happened to mine,they all were fed the same food,and were under the exact same conditions.One would do this,and the others did not.At first I freaked out,because I could not understand why this happened.Why this happens,I don't profess to know,but left alone,and treated the same as the others,the new leaves came in normal,and the down pointing ones did their job and eventually dropped off.Some times we humans tend to over think things,and cause more damage than good. Plants have been around for a long time,and have survived despite our meddeling. So,just keep an eye on her,but don't treat her any different than the others,and see what happens. In my humble opinion,and not actually seeing the plant,it sounds like a slight case of a little too much fertiliser,but not enough to burn the plant.Instead of full,or slightly less than full strength,try 1/4 strength a couple times,and see what happens.If the plant is rather small,or a rooted cutting,the fert may have been just a wee bit too much for it,but it should recover and be ok. Just my opinion. Dan