There are tall growing varieties and there are not so tall growing ones. Probably your best course of action is to let it grow as tall as possible to get a thickened trunk then cut it very low. That way you should get a number of side shoots/branches. If you cut it early with a thin trunk you're likely to get fewer branches. Having it up against a fence reduces the area branches have to spread out and is what promotes a taller tree. If you had a grafted tree those don't grow as tall as the ungrafted ones.

Grafted trees are basically the same tree as the one the graft came off. If you remember the cloned sheep "Dolly" of a number of years back. Although it started off going through the lamb stages it died early because genetically it was the same age as the one if was cloned off. In the same way, a graft is a clone of the original tree, biologically having the same age. That's why they fruit virtually straight away. Another point, Nam Dok Mai is a cooking mango and I don't think it's much good eaten as fresh fruit anyway. So it would be best to take off all the undeveloped fruit to give the root stock a chance to grow to a decent size to be able to support a lot of fruit. Leaving the fruit to fall off itself means the tree gets stressed to the point where a survival mechanism kicks in. (Mind you, stressing trees to produce fruit is another whole new topic.) Tip pruning is usually done during harvest when the fruit stems are cut back into the supporting branch. Although, on a commercial scale it's done with 'helicopter-type' blades afterwards which trims and shapes the whole tree. But you also need to thin out some of the branches to allow more sun and air into the centre of the tree. This reduces fungus problems and produces better fruit.

I am here to attack your pro chemical stance bsbullie. brandon00warden, Ants are a problem because they feed on the honeydew produced by scale and aphids. The excess carbohydrates from the honeydew can cause problems like sooty mold on your mango tree while the sucking insects themselves can cause damaged mis-shaped new leaves. It would be best to get rid of both ants and scale. The ants will protect the scale and aphids from predators. There are a few ways i've gotten rid of ants and scale without needing strong pesticides. The size of your tree will determine if my methods are possible. If your tree is large and touching other trees it will be difficult to get rid of the ants as they will find another way onto your tree. You can use something like tanglefoot pest barrier to stop the ants from climbing your tree. I've tried it and it has worked. If your tree is small and in a container you can create a moat of sorts around the container with another container flipped upside down(its a lot of work but if you have only one or two trees its worth it). If you would like to go that route I can explain the process better, just let me know.

Well, I was talking with my wife, and she said the flowers dried out and did not just fall off as I first stated. About the moisture. I think I did increase the amount of water the tree gets from the sprinklers. My front yard has only two big sprinklers (I am planning on changing this as time permits), and until a few months ago (I would say, 6 or so), one impact and another regular but big sprinkler. I changed the setup so that now there are two impact sprinklers similar to this one. Since the tree is in the center, and each of the sprinklers are on the outer edgers they kind of cross each other a little bit in the center, and I think the tree is getting water from both of them. I am going to check this out tonight, and adjust as necessary. I was worried that the tree was sick, or damaged by the weed killer we put around it. But from all your comments, I am gathering that this could be a normal cycle for it, or too much moisture. I have not noticed any other type of insects or anything else there. BTW, I am in Boca Raton, FL.