Tail shape on perched accipiters can be a dodgey ID point. The attached link is a googled image of Sharp-shinned showing a seemingly rounded tail. The bird in question also has what appears to be a fairly rounded head (Cooper's have flattish heads). These are talking points-I'm still not 100%, but sticking with my tentative ID. -O- Here is a link that might be useful:

For the last two years, I've been experimenting with methods used to deter hawks. I wanted to see if any particular method worked better than another and, I was hoping to find their achilles heel so I could perhaps create a method that would help people who want to enjoy the critters in their yard. I did this for not only songbirds but mammals, such as rabbits. I found that tape, for the hawks here, did nothing. I didn't try CD's but I would think they'd have little effect on a seasoned hunter. I tried that easily torn regular bird netting and fishing line. This did deter bigger hawks like a redtail or goshawk and definitely eagles. It did nothing to deter male coopers hawks, peregrines or sharp shins, assuming they could find a tiny gap between pieces of netting. Now if you get the holes small enough with the fishing line, it could have an effect but a quickier and easier alternative would be the aviary bird netting. I bought some on amazon. It's very strong, and the holes are 2" x 2" which is too small for any hawk to enter. That did deter them, as long as the netting completely covers everywhere the prey animal is located. So basically, a barrier is needed since gadgets used to 'frighten' or 'confuse' don't usually work. A bigger hawk, like a redtail, could possibly go crashing into the netting and if it isn't stuck in it, it would not only ruin your set-up, it would probably kill the prey but redtails here tend to avoid netting. For smaller mammals like rabbits, I recommend burying the surface of a solid corrugated pipe at least a few inches deep from the surface, not in a low spot where water can sit and possibly get in an entrance, covering up with the soil and putting a brush pile over top. Hide entrances in shrubs if possible. Make sure the pipe is pretty long at least 12 feet but preferably 18 ft or longer as hawks will try to flush the rabbits and this is less likely if pipes are longer. If you have larger mature rabbits in the area, I'd recommend you buy 8" if offered, or split the 6" pipe (that's the only size pipe our stores offer) and open it up a bit before burying, to allow a bigger rabbit entry. If trying to protect a small dog or other small animal, I'd definitely go with chicken wire whenever possible but otherwise, the aviary bird netting is strong and on a strong frame, should deter most attacks. It's also black which makes it blend in much better than chicken wire. I've tried water guns, nerf guns, clapping and yelling. Yelling is very effective if you see a hawk chasing down prey. It distracts them for a moment and the prey gets away but given you'd have to be monitoring constantly, that's not practical. But if you see it, a great big 'hey!' usually is enough to break up the chase. Nerfs work but again, you have to be there constantly. Recordings of owls or a peregrine falcon will work but usually only on juvenile hawks. I've buried pipe but found the pipe wasn't long enough and wasn't hidden well enough. All the hawk has to do is be able to put a talon at the opening of the pipe and the rabbits or whatever small animal is hiding, will flush from cover that the hawk couldn't possibly have accessed. So best protect entrances with brush or a large stone. In conclusion, hawks will go where the food is. They are also capable of retaliation when they think you're trying to stop them (confirmed by a falconer and my own experiences) and will try that much harder to thwart you. The best thing is to not concentrate any animal or bird to avoid attracting them and if you do decide to feed, hide feeders or mammals/buried pipe under trees and shrubs before they discover it because once you get on their radar, it takes a couple of years for them to forget you.

I can't say I totally agree with the above. Sure, I have many hawks at my house, but there are a few ways you can deter them slightly. First, keep your feeders right by a shelter (an evergreen bush, shrub, etc. is fine) or put large nesting boxes out to hide from predators when needed. Another thing I would do is keep feeders that give hawks a hard time at reaching- ie, caged feeders, or in your case, covered ground feeders. One idea is to feed the birds on/off every week or two so that the hawk doesn't see the yard as a steady feeding area. Also, keep in mind, hawks and owls don't generally eat birds that often, it is falcons and kites you should really worry about... But then again, winter really pushes the boundaries a bit. Of course there are things you can do, but none are foolproof. Embothrium, of you're reading, as long as the areas are cleaned and sanitized each season, bird feeding is great for the birds as it is a healthy source of food. Winter is especially hard, and there will be less disease in winter.... Lazy_Gardens, as I mentioned, agreed, but it doesn't have to be predictable. Rockybird, if the hawk nests very close to you, you may have a bigger problem, but if it's farther away you should be okay if you take into consideration the above (with hopefully less casualties:), and do you know what type of hawk you are dealing with? I only have experience with red tailed hawks. Good luck :).

Hi Pat, No, I also have a tube feeder with BOSS and safflower. Woodpeckers, bluejays, assorted sparrows, cardinals, goldfinches, et al, like the Lyric - and go through 4 lbs a day. The chickadees, nuthatches, titmouses, house finches seem to go more often to the safflower/BOSS feeder. The Lyric has seeds and nuts for all beak sizes. I am a non-discriminating birder. I feed crows, starlings, crackles, anybody that shows up here gets a meal and a drink. Having said that, their seasonal activities affect what I put out and when. I put the safflower and BOSS out originally to discourage the large flock of house sparrows which dominated the feeder and bath in the spring breeding season, to the exclusion of all others. I will stop the Lyric in the early spring when more natural food becomes available and breeding season brings every HS for miles. In summer, I use safflower/BOSS only when there are plenty of bugs and fruit available. A picture is worth...my feeding area this morning: RB Woodpecker, Juncos, Mourning Dove, Bluejay, Titmouse The Mourning Doves rock everything when they land so there is enough spillage for the ground feeders like the Juncos. I also switch the Lyric to add a suet cake for the winter sometimes, too. (going to have to make a decision about bird name capitalization...or not, lol. ) Jane