I'm not clear about your layout so let me explain mine. Originally I had a 6' high fence with 7' T posts driven in approx 1 foot. When I went to 9' high I replaced T posts with 4X4" posts. I used 5 T posts (one for a gate like you are planning). My garden is 32X37'. I think one could go 50' without a problem if you used regular electric fence wire. I left the 5th Tpost since the gate didn't need to be 9' high. If I had it to do over, I would be more particular about setting my 4x4 posts. I should have added more rocks to prevent the posts from sagging inward. I certainly wouldn't use cement since I may want to move them. Doesn't look so sharp but it keeps the critters out if I remember to turn it on! I'm not understanding your question about difficulty about stringing the wire. If you wanted, you could use one roll of wire attached at one end with slack by the charger, and slipped between each stand off around and around all the posts or fences at ever higher levels (or not) depending on your height needs. As I learned afterward, it would have been wiser to have run the wire around the inside of the posts to prevent them getting shorted on the wooden posts at one of the corners. The stand offs only stood off on one side. More judicous nailing of the standoffs to the exact edge of the posts might work as well. If you are going outside of part of a fence, then going inside the post probably won't be possible.

Hi Gary, Here is a blurb on what runs on modified sine wave inverters: http://www.xantrex.com/support/readfaq.asp?did=268&p=1348 Looks like the odds are it would work OK. I checked our electric weed whacker on the killawatt, and it pulls 500 watts. 500 watts from a 12 volt battery would be 42 amps to the inverter. Costco sells a 115 AH 12 volt deep cylce for $72 -- assuming an efficient inverter, that should give you about 2 hours of weed slaughter if you take the battery down to 25% charge. Gary

It's my understanding that a current collector spring will touch the filament wires in the event of a bulb shattering. If this is the case, LED's don't shatter, so does it matter if the current collector spring is pushed off to the side a little bit? Most people looking at colored replacement don't care about warranty on a light fixture. A LED light will put less strain on a light fixture, because is uses less power and generates less heat. The only reason Pentair would "void the warranty" is because they don't want to lose sales of their intellibrite product. Now if you do this and something goes catastrophically wrong, don't look to Pentair, or whoever makes the light to be liable. Getting back on topic. You can probably get away with replacing the LED lamp only because you dont need the oversized wires that typically come on a large pool fixture. The led consumes far less wattage. You may want to increase the size of the wires that go from the transformer location to the light junction box.

Good advice, Ron. With traditional plastic package LEDs, a safe nominal current value is usually 20 milliamps. Many of the high brightness type will take more, but 20 ma is unlikely to damage any LED you find. I don't have enough experience with SMD types to even guess, let alone COB. The safest method is to measure the current they use in the original application, and either calculate an appropriate series resistance to maintain that current, or determine it by experimenting with different series resistance values while watching with your meter. Don't forget that if you change the device's heat sinking, you may not be able to maintain the same current. I add, however, that the typical $3 dollar store solar garden light has no current regulation at all. It doesn't need any, because it uses a single 1.25 volt cell (usually nickel cadmium of about 300-400 mah) driving an LED with a nominal forward voltage of a bit over 3 volts. Hey, what did you think you were going to get for $3? You can also use a regulator IC as a constant current LED source, but that's more effort than something like this is probably worth. A sidebar. I've read that the reason you see so many cheap Chinese made products assembled with lots of screws - and even with hand-soldered circuits inside - is that labor is cheaper than machinery in China. Tesla electric vehicles are built largely by robots. Geely and BYD EVs from China are probably mostly, if not entirely, hand-made.