I recall recently (past year) linking to a commercial recirculating hood. These may require some extra ceiling height and will have significant filtering mass. From UL: "These systems capture the cooking effluent from a cooking appliance, process the captured air through various filters and vent the filtered air back into the room where the appliance is located. These systems can be either portable or permanently installed, and include an integral fire extinguishing system to protect the hood system and appliance area. Recirculating hood system requirements were originally introduced in the 1994 edition of National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 96, Standard for Ventilation Control and Fire Protection of Commercial Cooking Operations, and have subsequently been introduced in the International Fire Code (IFC), the International Mechanical Code (IMC) and the Uniform Mechanical Code (UMC). They were previously investigated in accordance with requirements in UL 197, Standard for Safety for Commercial Electric Cooking Appliances. Requirements covering these appliances were later updated and moved to UL 710B, Standard for Safety for Recirculating Systems." Here are some examples: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/56229/ventless-hood-systems.html https://kitchenventilation.com/2021/09/27/recirculating-systems-for-kitchen-ventilation/ https://wells-mfg.com/product-category/ventless-cooking-systems/ventless-hoods/

All you need is a "Disposal Type-End waste kit" In a disposal type end waste kit the cross tube is a straight tube with a flanged end. You discard the 1/4 bend that comes with the disposal and connect the cross tube flange directly to the disposal. The kit will then have a baffled Tee that connects to the tailpiece of the opposite sink with the cross tube entering directly into the side input of the baffled tee. The tailpiece of the baffled tee will then drop vertically down to the input of a P-trap.

paul_ma: hey, thanks a ton for the photos. Between yours and Casey's I have a very good feel now for what different colored Alzak baffles look like. Very helpful. And, since we do have generic white baffles in the existing kitchen, I agree that the certainly don't disappear when off. Now it's just down to the "can I squeeze them into the budget" decision--made tougher by the recent visit of the AV installer, who wants to sell me a home automation system at maybe triple my AV budget. Tom: we used 3'' LV halogen recessed fixtures in our office. They give phenomenal focused highly white light on the desktop. For the kitchen though I'm looking for less focused, warmer, more diffuse light. Plus, the first lighting quote using MR16 LV fixtures came in at about $18K, versus our initial allowance of about $5K. Other consideration was heat: between the MR16's (9) and halogen strip UC lighting (big mistake) the office is like a furnace. We are considering zoning the office just because of that. Thanks to all for your input.

Yes, in many cooking layout decisions where a 48-inch range is involved, it may well be that a 54-inch hood vs. a 48-inch hood is on the side of diminishing returns, but not of negligible returns. The IQ, as I understand it from a thread of the historical past, turns up the fan speed when it senses that more flow is needed. On full power I expect the fan to be as loud as any other fan of equivalent flow rate at the existing pressure loss. I vaguely recall being suspicious of this scheme; I think that the IQ is guessing at the velocity of the cooking plume from temperature measurements. In theory this would be valid, if the measurements were accurate representations of cooking surface temperatures, and the peak temperature of anywhere on the cooktop (excluding open flames) were used, and the hot surfaces were always greasy and not wet. This is akin to expecting an automotive automatic transmission to automatically be in the correct gear for the conditions at hand, when the transmission is only programmed for minimizing fuel usage. The closest to mind reading that auto transmissions have reached is paddle shifters on the steering wheel. Hence, I prefer manual control of my ventilation as well as my cars. If anyone knows any mitigating facts about the IQ that may correct my impression expressed above, please let me know. My experience and that of many others is that where it is practical to install, a roof blower and intermediate silencer is the quietest approach at a given flow rate. A silenced blower does not silence the hiss from baffle turbulence, so one wonders how the IQ could be quieter at full power if it is pulling air through baffles at the same velocity. kas