No, it was a bluebird birdhouse with a 24" baffle! I have 14 birdhouses, only 4 have wiring and rest have baffles. Now I have improved it for better protection - 4' baffle instead of 2'. About the electric fence wire - I just wrote on the birdwatching forum about the Brown thrasher nest with same electric fence wire setup to help protect the bush from snakes (I posted pictures) http://nature.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bird/msg0622391128646.html Yesterday I saw a snake touch it, and it got zapped and backed up very quickly! I'm still not 100% sure this border will work if there is a more stubborn snake, or with a small snake that could squeeze under it, but now I know it IS working and a snake DOES get shocked from an electric fence wire when it's body is on the grass (the grass was dry). The pole has more wiring than the border, so now I think the electric fence wire may even be better than a baffle, at least better than the recommended small 24" baffle. Also, the birdhouse in the first picture (at the top of this page) has both - the baffle and wire, as I wrote last Sunday It's strange, but in all the years I have lived here I have never had so many LARGE snakes in the yard at one time. I left a chicken egg in the barn last night for "snake detection" and also to help keep their belly full, so they might be less creative about how to get birds. The egg was gone this morning. Tonight I'll leave more. I feel like I'm in the "Snakes on a Plane" movie :)

I recall recently (past year) linking to a commercial recirculating hood. These may require some extra ceiling height and will have significant filtering mass. From UL: "These systems capture the cooking effluent from a cooking appliance, process the captured air through various filters and vent the filtered air back into the room where the appliance is located. These systems can be either portable or permanently installed, and include an integral fire extinguishing system to protect the hood system and appliance area. Recirculating hood system requirements were originally introduced in the 1994 edition of National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 96, Standard for Ventilation Control and Fire Protection of Commercial Cooking Operations, and have subsequently been introduced in the International Fire Code (IFC), the International Mechanical Code (IMC) and the Uniform Mechanical Code (UMC). They were previously investigated in accordance with requirements in UL 197, Standard for Safety for Commercial Electric Cooking Appliances. Requirements covering these appliances were later updated and moved to UL 710B, Standard for Safety for Recirculating Systems." Here are some examples: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/56229/ventless-hood-systems.html https://kitchenventilation.com/2021/09/27/recirculating-systems-for-kitchen-ventilation/ https://wells-mfg.com/product-category/ventless-cooking-systems/ventless-hoods/

All you need is a "Disposal Type-End waste kit" In a disposal type end waste kit the cross tube is a straight tube with a flanged end. You discard the 1/4 bend that comes with the disposal and connect the cross tube flange directly to the disposal. The kit will then have a baffled Tee that connects to the tailpiece of the opposite sink with the cross tube entering directly into the side input of the baffled tee. The tailpiece of the baffled tee will then drop vertically down to the input of a P-trap.

paul_ma: hey, thanks a ton for the photos. Between yours and Casey's I have a very good feel now for what different colored Alzak baffles look like. Very helpful. And, since we do have generic white baffles in the existing kitchen, I agree that the certainly don't disappear when off. Now it's just down to the "can I squeeze them into the budget" decision--made tougher by the recent visit of the AV installer, who wants to sell me a home automation system at maybe triple my AV budget. Tom: we used 3'' LV halogen recessed fixtures in our office. They give phenomenal focused highly white light on the desktop. For the kitchen though I'm looking for less focused, warmer, more diffuse light. Plus, the first lighting quote using MR16 LV fixtures came in at about $18K, versus our initial allowance of about $5K. Other consideration was heat: between the MR16's (9) and halogen strip UC lighting (big mistake) the office is like a furnace. We are considering zoning the office just because of that. Thanks to all for your input.