Torreya There's natural hybridization and artificial hybridization... Surely, there are natural hybridization between montezuma and bald cypress in Texas but there aren't really any information on that subject. At this point, I don't know how to tell whether they are hybrids or not. There are many variabilities apparently from what I've read. Some don't have knees. Some have smaller cones. Some retains their foliage round year (Montezuma is evergreen in zone 9 and warmer). Montezuma has darker green leaves compared to bald cypress that I've seen up close. There happens to be possible montezuma cypress in another subdivision a mile away. it is very rare that they are sold so I wonder how they ended up with that tree but I like it better than bald cypress which doesn't look all that great growing in area with caliche/limestone base soil. China has done major stuff with montezuma, bald cypress and pond cypress breeding program for quite a while, probably 20 years or longer, i forget the exact numbers but it's a big thing going on over there. They are literally growing millions and millions of cypress seedlings to plant across south area of China. Those trees are not native to their land. They were brought over there from USA in 1800s if I recall correctly. One hybrid that they came up is between Montezuma and bald cypress called 'Nanjing Beauty' that I have 4 at my house. A professor at my college went to China in the early 2000 to provide some help regarding taxiodium trees and he brought some 'Nanjing Beauty' back from here and I guess he started propagating them since then for evaluation program at 50 different locations across USA. China has since come up with more hybrids. They tend to classify their hybrids such as T-101, T-20, etc like that and do some testing on how they do over certain period of time. It's pretty interesting what they are doing over there. It might be a while before you see 'Nanjing Beauty' being sold anywhere if it gets that far. It is relatively new brought into USA in the early 2000s.

Jeannie_kitchen has pretty much nailed it- Years ago, before really slick marketing hype & techniques were the norm, the naming of stones were more in line with the location of the quarry, and then the color or vice versa - eg: "giallo veneziano" - the "color" - giallo, meaning "yellow", and the "quarry" - veneziano - the name of the quarry in Brazil. Then, when the quarry discovered that what they were sending to the finishing plants did NOT match up anymore with what they had been shipping - say for the last three years, they quarry would "add" an "identifier" for the new found color, so as to set it apart from the original "first" color - eg: "giallo veneziano - FIORITO" - comes from roughly the same region in brazil, but has a totally different "look" - therefore the different name. There are also companies that "re-name" some or all common stone species in an effort to keep their customers from finding the same stone some where else- for less money. They are betting that most customers will give up trying to find "the" stone, since none of the other places that the customer has called has ever heard of "brand Juparana X-Y-Z".... This tactic works sometimes, but with really savvy customers, that have a digital camera, the internet (with places like Garden Web) and some perseverance, they'll find "the" stone that they are searching for - even if it has three or more "names"... hope that helps kevin

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"

I prefer fiberglass. Where is the home located? The upper end Therma stuff is pretty nice. I really like the Embarq and Signet series from Provia as well as the Waudena slabs in their fiberglass. I can't see a really good reason to go with steel or even wood unless you are an absolute purist on the look. The fiberglass is so good these days and can be stained to a near perfect match with the wood options.