I'm no chemist, but I've had great success with sulfentrazone in my yard killing nutsedge, kyllinga & crabgrass. It comes in several formulations from a few different manufacturers, but I like to use a pump sprayer so my preferred product ends up being sedge ender. It has a prodiamine dose built in to prevent new sprouts in the same spot too, which is nice. The nutsedge starts to go yellow within 24 hours & when it finally does come back a few months or a year later, it's already deformed & yellowing. That just makes them easier to see & easier to zap again the second time. There is no one & done treatment for nutsedge, it's a process but sulfentrazone based herbicides are my best weapon

Will my Bermuda be able to choke this out or Bwahahahahaha! Sorry, uh, no, bermuda will not choke it out. Where do you live? Are you ready to start withholding water? Nutgrass is a swamp sedge. It is not a grass although it looks like one. Once you back off on your watering from the schedule you used to get the sod established to one of maintenance, the nut grass might disappear. I've had it disappear many times in my lawn. It will appear in the winter or spring and disappear in the summer. Ideally you should be watering only once per week in the summer. Summer might be here already depending where you live. I live in San Antonio and, while the heat is here, we keep getting clouds all week and rain every weekend so I really have not watered yet, this year. Then again, other people have been watering - I'm just not a stickler for being the first on the block with green grass. Next time you water put out some tuna or cat food cans. After your normal watering cycle, check how much water you collected in the cans. If they are full that is just about an inch of water. What you need to know if how long it takes to water an inch. Then you can start backing off on your watering frequency. Don't water again until you see a part of the lawn turning color and the leaf blades folding up. Then water immediately but water a full inch. If you get runoff, stop immediately and let the moisture soak in. Start watering again in 15-30 minutes until you get the full inch into the soil. Then wait again until the grass looks dehydrated. If you follow this plan of using the grass, you will end up watering about once a month in the winter and gradually moving to once per week in the hottest heat of summer. So after saying all that, keep in eye on the nutgrass, too. I would suggest that you not have to spray it with Image or Sedgehammer. Wait until July to see if backing off on the water helped or got rid of it. But I am serious in saying that mine just goes away by itself when I have full control of the moisture going on it. There is another sedge called green kyllinga that looks just like nutgrass until it gets a seed head. Green kyllinga is not a swamp grass and will thrive right along side bermuda. It is much slower to spread but still persistent. You can use Image or Sedgehammer on that. Yes, get that mowing height down.

The Image product I have used (Image DG70, imaziquin) is labeled for warm-season grasses only. If you want to control nutsedge on KBG, you might want to consider using Sedgehammer (halosulfuron).

You're running a bit late already (I tend to be a fan of early rather than late, given that seed always takes more time than you think and benefits from more time to grow than less). RU has no residual time; you can actually plant or seed (and I have) as soon as it's dry. Check the Ortho and Sedge Hammer for how quickly you can seed after use. I could, but it's been a long week so far and I'm being lazy tonight so I'll leave that task to you. A well-established lawn should help you out by refusing space to the nutsedge, but that takes a while. My lawn's choked it out, but I still get it in the gardens.