Will my Bermuda be able to choke this out or Bwahahahahaha! Sorry, uh, no, bermuda will not choke it out. Where do you live? Are you ready to start withholding water? Nutgrass is a swamp sedge. It is not a grass although it looks like one. Once you back off on your watering from the schedule you used to get the sod established to one of maintenance, the nut grass might disappear. I've had it disappear many times in my lawn. It will appear in the winter or spring and disappear in the summer. Ideally you should be watering only once per week in the summer. Summer might be here already depending where you live. I live in San Antonio and, while the heat is here, we keep getting clouds all week and rain every weekend so I really have not watered yet, this year. Then again, other people have been watering - I'm just not a stickler for being the first on the block with green grass. Next time you water put out some tuna or cat food cans. After your normal watering cycle, check how much water you collected in the cans. If they are full that is just about an inch of water. What you need to know if how long it takes to water an inch. Then you can start backing off on your watering frequency. Don't water again until you see a part of the lawn turning color and the leaf blades folding up. Then water immediately but water a full inch. If you get runoff, stop immediately and let the moisture soak in. Start watering again in 15-30 minutes until you get the full inch into the soil. Then wait again until the grass looks dehydrated. If you follow this plan of using the grass, you will end up watering about once a month in the winter and gradually moving to once per week in the hottest heat of summer. So after saying all that, keep in eye on the nutgrass, too. I would suggest that you not have to spray it with Image or Sedgehammer. Wait until July to see if backing off on the water helped or got rid of it. But I am serious in saying that mine just goes away by itself when I have full control of the moisture going on it. There is another sedge called green kyllinga that looks just like nutgrass until it gets a seed head. Green kyllinga is not a swamp grass and will thrive right along side bermuda. It is much slower to spread but still persistent. You can use Image or Sedgehammer on that. Yes, get that mowing height down.

Life stages is really important when it comes to controlling nutsedge. I haven't read that article in a couple years but if I recall properly, before formation of the third leaf stage is the best time. It explains nutsedge, how it grows, and the methods for control. As Capt. Tom mentioned, pulling means you have to get the whole plant, especially the nuts (tubers) or you end up with a bigger problem. Management is labeled for controlling nutsedge, and you will likely have to apply more than once. You also want to get a surfactant to mix into it. The surfactant will help the herbicide adhere to the plant for effectiveness. Usually, dishwashing liquid will serve the same purpose. I'm not familiar with SedgeHammer but according to the link, it's the same as Manage. Perhaps someone more familiar will testify that it works better. With Marathon II, I'm wondering if you live in California.

First Manage/SledgeHammer to my knowledge was never listed for use around edibles. Second everytime I have used that stuff, as labelled, I must give up on that area for at least a year. Otherwise plants that follow grow poorly if at all. Other products labeled for nutsedge contain arsenic within their moluclar structure. I am not sure if Manage does or doesnt but again it is NOT labelled for use around edibles. In the short term pulling does create some off shoots but in the long term, and IF you are vigilant about pulling, you will eventually exhaust the plant of resources and it will fade into obscurity (this could be a few years). What you DO NOT want to let it do is go to seed. That's is how you will ruin your efforts on pulling. if you have a raised bed there is a task you can do IF you want to spend the time doing it. Get a series of hardware cloth screens and screen the soil by hand to remove the roots and "nuts". This is exhaustive work but you will seriously reduce the population assuming there are no seeds in the soil. Generally I have just taken to removing the soil completely to a depth of about 18" and then replacing it with new soil . No easy way to get rid of the stuff around edibles. I have seen it poke through IRT Mulch even so hard work and diligence is the only way I know.

I had a lawn-wide infestation of nut sedge after replanting the lawn. You cannot kill nut sedge in one year, it is an ongoing project. I have used Sedge Hammer and it has been quite effective. I have two small spots of sedge (about 10 plants in total) left in the lawn. You have to apply Sedge Hammer repeatedly (I do it about every two weeks) until the sedge leaves turn brown, and the plant dies. The problem with nut sedge is that even if you kill the leaves, the herbicide only trans-locates back about 2-3 nuts in the root chain. The roots can have up to seven nuts on any root. That is the problem - there will be nuts left to germinate the next year. That's why it will come back the next year, there will still be nuts in the root mass that are still active. So, what you are doing the next year, is killing the left over nuts, and 2-3 nuts back from them. Ultimately, you will kill all of the nuts and the plant will disappear. The problem with trying to dig the plant out is that the roots are very fine and fragile. No matter how careful you are, you will end up leaving some of the nuts in the ground, and as soon as the main plant has been taken out, the remaining nuts will start to germinate. Roundup (glyphosate) will do nothing to the plant. You need to use a sedge-specific herbicide like Sedge Hammer with spreader sticker in the mix. I have found that a small amount of Quicksilver herbicide added to the Sedge Hammer seems to increase the effectiveness. I apply the Sedge Hammer / Quicksilver / spreader sticker mixture after the plants have at least three to five leaves and the temperature is above 80 degrees. It usually takes two treatments over two weeks to kill the plant for this year. I then monitor the area the next year and repeat the treatment. Eventually, you can kill all of the sedge because there will be no more nuts left in the ground to germinate. In my case, it has taken about six years to get all of the nut sedge out a 3000+ square foot lawn. But, since you only need to treat the plant 2-3 times over four week period, it is really not very work intensive. Once you treat the plant for the year - you're done until the next year. It's a war of attrition and you just have to work at it until it's all gone. It can be done, I've done it in my lawn.