See link on pear scab (aka blackspot). As I mentioned earlier, immunox should take care of it, although as the article says, it's not as severe or devastating as apple scab. Regarding your apples, I posit leafhopper b/c the upper leaves of your apples are curled, a result of the leafhoppers sucking the sap out of them. If you can kill the leafhopper nymphs (often seen on underside of leaves) it will be easier to control damage in future. Insecticidal soap, pyrethrins, and imidacloprid are all apparently effective, esp. the last as it's systemic in leaves -ie suck the sap, and bang your dead:).Honestly, you could probably ignore all of it and be OK, as they're not devastating issues. Here is a link that might be useful: blackspot

I don't think the beer itself directly kills slugs...they are attracted to the hops in it. They climb in and get so drunk on it that they drown! It is a disgusting, slimy mess, isn't it? Yucky! I don't have a problem with them in my garden, but they are inside the workshop, living down in the concrete drainage channels along the outside walls. I keep my rabbit in there and injured, re-cooping chickens, so there is always "food" for them in there. They leave my garden alone. The big black Ground Beetles go in there and keep them in-check. I don't have to do a thing. ~Annie

Thank you again for your reply. It's a shame you can't get a close up. Anyway I think you are on to something about where I purchased the plant, they may have used a pesticide. I try to grow organically & use neem oil if needed. Because of having so many flies after the rainstorm I'ld guess they are fly eggs. I didn't see spider webbing for it to be mites (I do get them but usually at the end of summer where I am). So I guess that settles it. Thank you again for all of your input, it's been a helpful experience. I'll definitely recommend this site to others! One last thing I'll share, here's the sunset from last night seen from my back yard porch. May all your days be filled with a beautiful ending!

Potassium deficiency, due you fertilize? Well here's the deal, I can't tell you how much to apply because it's in a container, and I don't know what fertilizers you use if any. I can tell what NOT to use and why the older leaves are effected. Do NOT use 10-10-10 fertilizers or general purpose fertilizers, the type of potassium used in those fertilizers are Potassium Chloride (KCI) and cucumbers are very sensitive to Chloride reduces plant vigor, causing yellowing and scorching of leaf margins, and premature leaf fall. Right away people think the plant has a disease and it was chloride. Nope, Chloride isn't your problem. potassium is mobile plants and the new growth is taking potassium from the older leaves to support growth, it's what plants do so you need potassium and the right kinds. The right kind is Potassium Sulfate or potassium nitrate, not a banana peel unless you think the plant can wait a month before microbes make the potassium available for the plant to use. Potassium Sulfate is preferred because of the Sulfate (sulfur). Plants need sulfur or they get sick and the leaves start looking like a Iron deficiency, so people dump a boat anchor of iron on the plant when only a few milligrams are needed, but it doesn't help so they think disease (again). So tell me what fertilizer you're using. More fun facts on Cucumbers and potassium: Cucumbers are one of the only crops that require more potassium then nitrogen, 60 to 100% more, but too much potassium will cause a nitrogen deficiency (it's complicated). To much or to little and your plants will suffer and if to little your cucumbers will look like a water balloon, the stem end skinny and the blossom end fat . Potassium will protect the plant from downey mildew, in fact a potassium deficient plant with downey mildew can be cured with potassium. Really! I'm not making this up. https://www.siftdesk.org/article-details/The-impact-of-potassium-on-downy-mildew-of-cucumber-and-its-leafsoil-nutritional-status/437 Sorry but this is the kind of stuff I love reading.