We get volunteers every year in our compost pit, in the vegetable plot even after tilling, and below the pre-compost rotating barrel. I didn't find them worthwhile to cultivate compared with seed I start myself. They were unimpressive. On the other hand, acorn squash volunteers grown from seed dumped in the compost have been real winners. Go figure. The only way IMO you will be able to decide is to save a few of the apparently strongest ones and see what happens. Personal experience can be the best teacher.

Without doubt, timing is much different in Florida. For one we have a much larger window of opportunity. In the northern tier of the U.S. the growing season is 90 days. The more south the more it modarates. PLbrown, you paraphrased me and left out the but timing is important part. Jane..I need seeds of those forever tomatoes. I've had hot peppers last 2 years. And I have an orchid that stays in bloom. I want veggies that grow like weeds and weeds that grow like veggies.

This is an old thread, but since I came across it while looking for something else, thought I'd put my 2 cents in for the archive. The OP's wilt problem looks to me exactly like Bacterial Wilt - green, badly-wilted leaves happening overnight with maturing fruit already on the plant. I've been struggling with it two years in a row. Online, most sources say nothing much you can do about it except pull the plant, plant elsewhere next year, plant resistant varieties, etc. Personally, I find that advice hard to live with for a variety of reasons, so I've been experimenting. What I've learned so far is that: 1)watering the soil makes things worse - the disease affects water transport in the stems so the water never makes it to the leaves, and meanwhile, the water in the soil seems to help the bacteria thrive. When I let the soil dry out some, the most badly affected stems start to die off, but the less affected stems seem okay, especially with some foliar feeding. I think part of the key to dealing with Bacterial Wilt is to allow the soil to be fairly dry and foliar feed the healthier parts of the plant when they need water. 2)Foliar feeding with milk/water mixtures (I've sometimes added some epsom salt, molasses, some fish emulsion), helps the less affected stems to strengthen up in relation to the disease. Using the above two ideas, as of yesterday, my plants were looking greatly improved. However, it's now pouring rain, so I may be back at square one by tomorrow!

I haven't grown sungold, but the cherry I grew when I lived in Z7 (Sweet 100s I think), and that monster grew up the 6 foot cage, then down the other side of the 6 foot cage, and then 6 feet out along the line before I said ENOUGH and just cut off the vine. Cherry tomatoes can be voracious little suckers! I'll have to try sungold next year though. My son would love it. I grew yellow pear this year, but its really suffering disease pressure.