Dude! Run away!! That website has scam written all over it. Take over in 3 years to fill in? Try 3 months. Billl said it was invasive - he was not kidding. When you look at a bag of fescue or Kentucky bluegrass seed there is something on the package called the Guaranteed Analysis. It shows the percentage of ingredients by weight of the materials. It shows seed, inert ingredients (like seed coatings), weed seed (like oxalis, black medic, etc.), and other crop (like bentgrass and bermuda). The grasses suggested in the NoMow website are all considered weeds. They are considered weeds because they are yellow instead of deep green and because they send up seed heads or flowers faster than the grass grows. Furthermore there is plenty of lawn gibberish in the site. They say, Is Your Lawn a Chemical Hungery Monster? You can tell if your lawn does poorly when you do nothing! A gorgeous lawn starts with healthy soil with microbes and plenty of life in every handful of dirt. Most lawns can be improved naturally by adding microbes, mycilium and other beneficial micro-organisms. They in turn feed your grass giving it a lush hue and so thick not much else bothers it. With an adequet population of micro-organisms, your lawn will withstand heavy rains as well as drought periods better because the microbes continue feeding the plants long after the rains have stopped. They will also hold moisture in soil for much longer periods. We have soil de-toxifing agents to use for reducing chemicals and black walnut toxins. We have a basic micro-organism solution that will give your lawn a fast, non-chemical boost. And we have a mineral complex to feed both the microbes and plants. A little of these go a long way so use sparingly. Besides the misspelled words and poor grammar, most of that is selected gibberish. I was going to give you a link to a professional's opinion on some of those grasses. I'm hesitant because my browser crashed twice when visiting that page. Anyway the professional's opinion is just about opposite from what the website says. For example the website claims that alpine fescue is good for hot dry areas. In nature alpine fescue is a weedy looking plant that is only found above the timberline on the world's highest mountains. Hot? Not! And there is no grass called supine bent. It is supine bluegrass. It also will not survive any heat at all. That bag is a bag of disappointment and failure. They also sell corn gluten meal (sold as Weed n Feed). For $14.20 (incl shipping and handling) you get a pound of corn gluten meal. At a normal garden nursery for that price you would get 15 to 20 pounds of corn gluten meal. The kicker is that you need at least 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet for corn gluten meal before it has any effect. If you had a 2,000 square foot lawn you would need $1,136 worth of their product. Yes run away. But if you are really horny for allure of no mo grass and buy the seed anyway, please write back and tell us of your experience with the grass and with the company.

Fair enough RC, here's an explanation. Mostly what it deals with is not mowing frequently enough. And of course cutting too off at one time, putting too much nitrogen back into it. More growth is spent on producing stems and parts of the plant that take much longer to break down than the leaves. The problems I have discussed in the past with not bagging bermuda clippings is that if you have many small clippings they have to be evenly spread out over the lawn if you are going to recycle them. And they have to be small enough to get down in there and not wash away into dunes. (Bermuda also breaks down very slowly in comparison to other species) Isn't this a reasonable enough concept that everyone can agree on?

It will never look better until you get the profile perfect. At this time of year, unless you live in Miami or Brownsville, it is too late to fix that. So between now and next July, search this forum for discussions about "leveling" "bermuda" with "sand." Key search terms there in quotes. You can do it all in one day and have excellent results literally overnight. Of course you'll be exhausted the next day and won't be able to get out of bed, but your wife will see the difference. You can have a putting green surface if you do it right. Note that a putting green is not necessarily perfectly horizontal with the Earth. If you want to 'profile' your yard, that can be done, too. Most homeowners are happy with flat, though. Again, you have until July to read about it. Bermuda needs to be growing well for this to work. If not you could smother it. Yes, believe it or not, you can smother bermuda.

It would only leave a "goopy mess" if you didn't buff off the extra oil. Wait until they're done for the day, wash the counters, wax, let it sit for a couple of hours, then buff. I'm with Sherri: this is the perfect time to get several coats down, when you aren't distracted by using your kitchen for anything else! I've used both oil & wax and prefer wax. It seems to last longer. I've used Alberene's dry wax, which I liked, and this Clapham's: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012XP7LQ which I also like and, IIRC, is cheaper. I have beeswax on order to make my own, but haven't tried it yet. If you wait a week I can tell you if it worked. :D http://www.creative-culinary.com/wood-butter-helps-renew-wood-utensils-and-bowls/ No matter what you use, put on a THIN coat. Putting on more just means you have to buff off more! Lots of extra work for no benefit, other than the exercise. The soapstone will darken over several minutes with the wax/oil on it so as long as there's a layer, you're done. Don't feel like you have to keep putting on more until it's dark: the color will deepen with time. I learned this the hard way and wasted lots of oil & wax in the process.