Hi, Kentstar. You've been a good sport listening to all this advice, so here're other suggestions. My best guess is that you shocked your plant and that your plant's young roots are reacting to the soil amendments. For now, less is more. Don't drown the rose. Do NOT fertilize it. Do NOT prune the rose. It can protest to the point of dropping all the leaves and still survive. One way of saying that is the proverbial, "Step away from the rose." You can't take that comment any way but as a joke with a kernel of truth behind it. Water-don't water until after you rake back the mulch and use a garden trowel to dig down in the soil about 10 inches next to (but not touching the rootball) your rose. This is where you will test for soil moisture - not wet and not dry. The surface moisture isn't very instructive. In other words, put your pinkies in the soil. Manure, Bonemeal and greensand - in general, the roots of young plants should never come into contact with your fertlizer amendments. In other words, don't fertilize young plants until they are growing well. Natural doesn't mean harmless. Even composted manures can be too strong for some young plants. The more amendments I add to soil before plant, the more time I give them to mellow and cure a bit in the soil before planting. Bone meal should be in the bottom of the hole, below the roots, not mixed into the soil. I suggest in the future that you amend your soil in advance (except for the bone meal or other source of phosphorus), water if necessary, and let is sit a few days to a couple of weeks if you buffer pH by adding lime. When you plant, put a layer of soil between your plant and the bone meal of super phosphate or whatever you use. Weather - I seriously doubt 35 or 40 degrees had any effect on your rose. I garden in Zone 8-9, and grow cuttings outside all winter with no protection at all. Temps drop down below 20, and the plants are fine. Planting Depth - In the future, consider planting own root plants deeper. The soil protects the canes from drying out while the plant adjusts to garden conditions. I'd plant up to the first set of branching canes. Good luck.

There are various reasons plants wilt, and since you are the only one who knows the nitty gritty details about the type of soil you have, how often you water, how deeply you water, etc., all we can do is suggest possible causes and you'll have to evaluate your plants and practices and figure out which one it is. First of all, it has been exceptionally hot and the sunlight is very intense at this time of year, so heat stress is a possibility. If your plants wilt during the heat of the day and then begin to perk up in the late evening around sunset, then heat stress is the likely culprit. Secondly, if you are watering very heavily and have heavy soil containing a lot of clay, you could be overwatering. Plants that are too wet will wilt the same way that plants that are too dry will wilt. Check your soil by sticking your finger down in it. If it is sopping wet, you may be overwatering for the type of soil that you have. Third, if you have very fast-draining sandy soil, you may be underwatering. For pumpkins, you want to water deeply because their roots can go quite deeply. Fourth, it could be one of the bacterial diseaeses spread by insects. If so, you should be seeing some discoloration on the leave and also you'll see some wilted leaves that don't recover overnight. Fifth, it could be squash vine borers on the pumpkins and, more rarely but occasionally, on the cucumbers as well. With the tomatoes, we don't know enough about their plants and your plants to know why their plants are producing tomatoes and yours are not. There are a lot of possibilities, including the following: DAYS TO MATURITY: Different Varieties Have Different "Days To Maturity": Every tomato variety has different days to maturity and it varies wildly. If it takes your variety 80 days to mature, and theirs 60 days to mature, they could be part of it. It is more complicated than that though. The recommended planting dates for spring tomato plants in Oklahoma are April 10-30, so you planted at least a month late, and that really matters with some varieties, though not as much with others. SIZE OF PLANTS: It could be you set out a younger, smaller plant that wasn't physically ready to bloom and their plant was older and closer to being ready to bloom. It could be their plant had already formed blooms while at the wholesaler or retailer. TYPE OF PLANT: Y'all may have different types of plants....theirs could be an inderminate that sets fruits all along as it grows, and yours could be a determinate that sets a lot of fruit at once. Theirs could be a cherry, grape, currant or small pear-sized type of tomato and yours might be a full-sized large slicing type. If so, the large tomatoes have trouble setting fruit (see 'pollination' paragraph below) in higher temperatures than the smaller ones do. POLLINATION ISSUES: In general, most large, slicing-type tomatoes will bloom and form fruit only as long as daytime highs remain below about 92 degrees (up to 95 degrees for some varieties) and nightime lows remain below 72-75 degrees, but above 55 degrees. So, depending on where your plants and their plants were grown by the wholesaler and kept by the retailer, that could account for the difference. When I buy plants, I like to buy them early in the season when they haven't been sitting outside baking on hot concrete sidewalks, parking lots, etc. Once temperatures are high, the pollen inside the flowers loses viability and blossoms will form, fail to pollinate, and fall off. Once again, different varieties perform better at different temperatures. It could be that theirs don't mind the hotter temps as much as yours do. TOO MUCH NITROGEN: If your plants are lush, green, and have tons of foliage but are failing to flower and set fruit, there is a good possibility they've been overfed nitrogen. When plants get too much nitrogen, they make leaves and don't make fruit. Tomato varieties are highly variable and even two or more plants of the exact same variety will not peform exactly the same. I planted 85 tomato plants representing about 45 or 50 varieties and no two of them have behaved the same. Some have produced tons of tomatoes while others haven't formed a single fruit. Some made a lot of tomatoes early on and we are already harvesting those tomatoes while other plants have only recently formed fruit. So, without knowing which variety each of you planted, and the size and age that each was at planting time and the soil they're in and the amount they've each been fed and watered, it is impossible to guess just why their plants are setting fruit and yours are not, but it is most likely...if I had to make a blind guess...related to the variety and the weather. Dawn

From your description of soil..."and the soil doesn't go right down to the bottom of the pot"... I think that it is peat (or mostly peat) that is now hydrophobic - if peat dries out, it is very difficult to re-wet. It usually hardens into a 'blob' around the root ball. When you water, water just 'slides' over it and doesn't get the peat wet/moist. That is why palmbob and hablu (both very knowledgeable) suggesting the plant is thirsty. I would take it out of pot, gently shake off soil you can and soak the root ball with leftover soil, compacted around the roots, in tepid water and gently try to get as much as possible of peat off the root ball (ideal would be to get all of it off). Try not to damage existing roots....After, set it on some newspaper or kitchen paper towels that will soak off excessive water. The 'little white balls' in the soil is perlite, that is ok. You should prepare well-draining mix to pot up your plant in. After potting up, leave it in some shadier spot for about a week, mowing slowly (every few days or so) into more and more sun to make sure it doesn't burn. I understand that you don't get too much sun in your location, but unless it gets more than what it is getting now, it will always grow etoliated (leggy), in search of light.

Mat, yeah I have 2018 and 2019 to write up. I have all my notes. Just have to find time. I checked out Pepiniere casse noisette website. They do not list their rootstocks anywhere that I can find. What rootstocks are your pears, peaches, apricots on? Honestly, a lot of what they are selling, at least in apricots, peach, nectarines seem to me to be VERY marginal for their climate. In many case they mention useful for growing in pots but if that is the case how are they propagating for sale? I don't want to disparage them without information but my impression is they might be reselling . You absolutely need to be buying based upon root-stock. For apples I am not only buying on Bud118 as it has best cold hardiness and is vigorus for our short seasons - Bud9 is just too slow. Train and prune to keep the size you want. Pears on OHxF87 or 97 and prune/train. I have found PAW-PAWs to be marginal in 4b - still 3' tall after 5+ years. Blueberries don't like my soil so Haskasps and Currants are much better. You have better options than Indigo Gem, Aurora is good though. Pink Lemonade is like a zone 5/6 plant, I see little chance of it surviving. Both Whiffletree and vigneschezsoi are good options. Be aware that a 1-2 year old bare root grape vine will bear fruit 1-2 years faster than the same year rooted cuttings you will get from vigneschezsoi. If you are only buying a couple might want to spend a couple extra $$ to get fruit a whole year or 2 earlier. Somerset and Trolhaugen are good. Had a couple Brianna this year, not enough to really say. Get Bluebell as well. I suggest 10-15' between vines. Can go closer but I am of the hack back 90% every year and then let grow. Trollhaugen can put out 12-15' of growth in 1 year alone - plant closer and you have to keep on top of canopy thinning to avoid overgrowth. Apples and pears will benefit from bagging with ziplocs. Grapes I bag with Organza bags when starting to turn color. So far I am loosing 99% of stone fruit (plums) to plum curlico and the rest to birds/racoons (can't bag plums - they rot). All peaches die. Trying apricots but no fruit yet. Don't get too caught up on types of fruit. Buy something disease resistant on a hardy, vigorus rootstock then topwork as you get enough branch structure. You will then be able to test fruit to see what you like or not within 3 years of grafting. My crabapple is now up to 65+ different apples grafted to it.