Regarding the comments about oak leaves, I don't know when the start producing typical species leaves. But regarding the comment about a red leafed live oak, I noticed this tree on my daily commute. It has reddish leaves, much more so that the typical live oak, which you can see in the background. I can't find any other examples on the internet of a red leafed live oak, so maybe it's unique. It's not bright red, like a purple plum, but still redder than the typical live oak. I think it just turns green in summer, as I haven't noticed it until this winter.

If we don't go for an exotic wood and don't go for a distressed look, the alternative we're looking for would be a solid wood with not much grain that can be chocolate-brown stained. (We'd like it to stand up to some abuse; we had oak and that did decently, so favorably disposed to trying it again.) Anyway, what are your thoughts on the idea of, to keep grain pattern unobtrusive, going with a clear white oak - something high-grade - and staining (have good professional stainer) to a chocolate brown ... it would be that or staining an oak that's already darker, or going for a factory-stained version like the lovely choice at the link below. (Would still need to see that in person. We like that luminous deep glow and continuous expanse of pretty wood, as opposed to a streaky or choppy look. Others may love that, but looking for more monochromatic here.) One question is whether, with a well-done stain, there are apt to be any problems with scratched areas showing lighter - or whether a good stain penetrates deep enough that it's not usually an issue. Here is a link that might be useful: Mullican chocolate oak

I like your suggestions, Worldmom (you must have posted just minutes before I posted my earlier post- I hadn't seen yours before I also suggested "paint the cabinets!") I agree about removing the soffit- if possible. If it is needed for structure or ducting, see if its width can be reduced ( "Push" it toward the dining room side, to help widen the room visually.) I love your kitchen redo crafterbeth- it is a wow. Great job. I just wanted to share a couple of thoughts to Steffie2 (been thinking about your kitchen, since it was the last thing I saw before going to sleep!) I haven't seen your entire kitchen, but could you possibly turn the penninsula into an island by removing a few cabinets at the end of the penninsula next to the range? (Or would there be not enough left to create the island if you did that?)You could then relocate one of those removed cabinets next to the range. (And doors from any cabinets you remove could make great end and back panels for cabinets and islands, by the way.) After all, many of those gorgeous kitchens with long islands are often no wider than a galley kitchen--they just are so open on the island side that you don't realize it! (By the way, once you remove the countertop, cabinets are easy to move around--they are usually just screwed to the wall and to each other.) I had another thought about how you could get new cabinets and stay in budget, besides painting: have you considered RTA (ready to assemble) cabinets? I was looking for bathroom vanities recently and found that there are now many places selling these RTA kitchen cabinets at FANTASTIC prices (even cheaper than IKEA!) They look just as gorgeous, at least online, as regular cabinets. I believe that some of them come from China- which may explain the low price. These RTA cabinets do have face- frame construction (unlike IKEA-which some contractors won't install due to the lake of face frames)and plywood sides (a good RTA cabinet has to have the plywood sides because of the way they are constructed--typical stock cabinets have particleboard sides unless you pay extra) I will post a link below for one RTA company below. (Even though I suggested painting the cabinets--I personally would never have the time or energy for such a large project myself!) One other budget tip if you want to squeeze in money for new cabinets (forgive me if you know all this already): Get estimates from small contractors who specialize in things like cabinet installs, and be your own general contractor (hire each specialist yourself: hire your own cabinet installer,electrician, plumber, countertop fabricator, etc.)this saves quite a bit of money, and the contractors seem to be able to give much better prices if they are only responsible for their own work. (General contractors usually charge 20% for being the general, or so I've been told.) I found a HUGE difference in prices between estimates for the cabinet install between the big box store where I bought the cabinets, bigger construction companies, and the little guys. I was even told that I got a better price because I was having the work done in January, when things were slow--something to keep in mind. Also, find out who does the cabinet installs (usually called the "finish carpenters") for a local home developer. They may be willing to do your install job as an extra side job, and the price will be reflect the fact that it isn't their sole source of income! At least that is what I did recently, and the contractor gave me a fantastic price for a minor remodeling job (I needed a custom corner cabinet built and one relocated.)I was willing to be a little flexible with my timing and he told me that he was happy to have an odd job to send his guys to do if they had an a delay or whatever with the developer, and they would have had nothing else to do otherwise! Just some of my musings--I hope it helps. Here is a link that might be useful: RTA kitchen cabinets

A pretty lighter color blue, or light green, or light aqua, that is clear looking, rather than muddy looking should give you the color you are needing to go with your neutrals.