I'd like input from experienced veggie gardeners
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14 years ago
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alley
14 years agolittle_dani
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Need advice from experienced gardeners
Comments (1)What you need to keep the water away from the house is called a swale by landscapers. Here is a picture. There are two swales in this picture. The lower one is about 3 meters away from the garage on the left, there is a low spot cut into the soil. That is the swale. This one starts at the block wall to the right of the gate and walk way. Behind the block wall is a similar swale that ends right at the block wall. There is a drain pipe which brings the water underground to the hole in the curb. A swale is designed to act like a ditch and carry water from the back all the way to the front of the house for drainage. This swale ends right at the front left corner of the grass. The picture was taken on a hot summer day during a dry spell, so the greening is due to water and nutrients collecting in the swales. The upper swale is designed to keep water from flowing down from the neighbor and flooding the lower neighbor's grass. It is just to the left of the upper tree. You can see how the grass is dry on the left side of the berm and fresh looking on the right. The right side is the other swale. It ends at what looks like a concrete water meter cover. The tool they use to make the swale is called a box blade and it goes on the back of a tractor. Getting your drainage right is a job for a professional landscaper. They will know how to move the dirt around. In your case they may haul soil away. As for trees and shrubs, there are other forums on GW for those topics....See MoreI'd like your input on apple growing
Comments (10)Regina, Taking out the cedars on your property will not necessarily help (but I'd do it anyway) because there are millions of cedars in Oklahoma. If you have a cedar tree within a mile or so to your south or southwest, wind can carry the disease from the cedars to your trees. The 'safe' distance from the north is only 1/4 mile, so look around your neighborhood and see if you find cedars within a mile to your south or southwest. If you do, you may have cedar apple rust issues even if you take out your own cedar trees. Diane, I simply don't grow apples or pears, and it was a deliberate decision not to invest time and effort in trees that have a slim chance of producing a viable crop. I understand the predicament you're in...there's no reason not to give the trees a chance, but no matter what you do, I think you'll have cedar apple rust. There's a reason we don't have lots of apple orchards all over the state. Do you know if the apples you have are (hopefully!) Cedar Apple Rust resistant? Glenda, The difference in what our grandparents and parents grew versus what we can grow makes me think of a couple of things. I wonder if they had heirloom varieties that had some natural cedar rust resistance, for starters. I also wonder if they had far fewer cedars. I simply don't remember large numbers of cedars covering the countryside in Texas when I was a kid...but when we drive down those exact same roadways now 40 or 45 years later, the cedars are everywhere. I also wonder if we have over-relied on so many sprays that we are producing continually weaker nursery stock with ever-worsening immune systems. If I thought we'd have a decent chance of producing apples here, I'd plant the trees, and I haven't and it is unlikely I ever will. There's a propery about 1/4 mile south/southeast from us that has dozens if not hundreds of cedar trees per acre, so I think an apple tree wouldn't stand a chance on our property. Dawn...See MoreNeed advice from experienced gardeners
Comments (2)rainyevening, Some of the fastest growing trees tend to get large. So you may want to keep them fairly far apart (10 meters?). You don't need may large trees to fill a yard. Plan for mature size, or you may be removing them later. Maples tend to have shallow roots and consume all the moisture, which prevents anything from growing under them. Not good if you want a shade garden. I have had several water problems. Putting in some drain tile (buried hose 10 to 15 cm in diameter, not sure of the standard metric sizes) along that edge of the house and having it drain off farther down hill may help. If your house has gutters with downspouts, getting that water away from the house may help. Moving much dirt may take a backhoe (pay someone to do it). I had at least 3 different backhoes in my yard, 15 years ago for various water related reasons. Plants are rated by hardiness zones, based on minimum winter temperatures for your area. You may be in zone 5. Conifers are great. You probably want winter sun to be able to warm the house a little to cut heating costs. So I may suggest to put deciduous trees (no leaves in winter) on the south side of the house. There are some deciduous Conifers. Dawn Redwood is one, and mine is fast growing (over 1 meter a year). It is still a young tree, maybe 5 meters tall. It will get to be a large tree. I like ginkgo trees as well, and they seem to have few problems. Do not rule out smaller understory trees, that grow under the "protection" of a larger tree. I have put wire cages around my trees to prevent small woodland critters from eating off the bark and killing the trees. I plan to remove them after 5 years or so. There is a lot to think about. I wish you luck and gardening fun!...See MoreFabric experts? I'd like some input
Comments (32)OK, several points need to be addressed. (And as a former upholsterer and slipcover maker, I feel capable of pontificating, LOL.) I'm delighted you washed a sample and kept the records of how and where it shrank, and how much. Go you! It washed well, didn't bleed, and shrank minimally. It sounds great for a slipcover. However, you can't simply dump 18 yards of fabric in a home washer. You can't dump that much fabric in a commercial washer either! That's an enormous amount of fabric! Were I you, I would cut oversized pieces for each of the slipcover sections, serge or zigzag the edges and wash those smaller pieces. If you think the fabric will bleed at all, put a Shout Color-Catcher in with the pieces. Then have the slipcover constructed. Do give it a boost with some more Scotchguard, after it's completed, if you're worried about stains. Some have said to contact the manufacturer about the "washability" of the fabric, and the durability of the stain protection. It will not happen! If you choose to wash a fabric labeled for dry- or solvent- type cleaning, you void ALL warranties for the fabric. Sure, it IS washable. Cotton is washable. Linen is washable. So is the silk blouse you may have. All of these are washable, but the manufacturer is NOT going to warrant against shrinkage or fading or bleeding. IF you choose to wash that silk blouse or your 18 yards of slipcover fabrics, you're on your own. I would still do it for myself....See MoreUser
14 years agolittle_dani
14 years agocynthianovak
14 years agoDeb Chickenmom
14 years agoUser
14 years agoshebear
14 years agocynthianovak
14 years agocarrie751
14 years ago
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