I agree with m1shmosh. This isn't intended as a slight at anyone. But I think the biggest weakness on this board is correct weed identification. I don't know all the weeds. But I know Poa annua when I see it. That first one is Poa Annua. I've no idea on the 2nd picture. For what it is worth, one of the easiest ways to ID Annual Rye (AKA Italian Rye) is it tends to have a purplish red color at the base of the plant. Identifying Characteristics: The auricles that occur in the collar regions distinguishes this grass from other similar weeds, as relatively few grass weeds have this feature. Additionally, the red-tinged base of annual ryegrass helps to distinguish this weed from perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne), which is very similar in growth habit and appearance. This url provides more information on Annual Rye.

WELL...last night someone on name that plant forum indicated that it was called Yellowrocket, which led to finding that it is probably a very close relative of Yellowrocket: Wild Radish. Whis is a very close relative to Wild Mustard :-) The only reason it can't be Yellowrocket is because the stems and leaves have tiny hairs, which indicates it is Wild Radish. However. I have seen pics of Wild Radish now on Google Images that don't look like this plant, and some that show Yellowrocket looking dead-on accurate, save for the leaves. Ha. At any rate, I'm pulling them up...tis' not to be... Thanks so much for your help, timbu and fammsimm. Now I am also familiar with two other kinds of weeds, so if I spot them, I'll know right away :-) Joanna

The idea of a "weed" free lawn has been to product of companies that sell materials that are known as environmental poisons. Today many places restrict the application of fertilizers containing Phosphorus because of the high levels found in lakes and ponds that encourage the growth of toxic algae and too much Nitrogen has been known for years to accumulate in the ground water and poison the water we drink, high nitrates. Many of the "weed" killers are known to kill off more then just the "weeds" in the lawn and often the "inert" ingredients in the formulas combine to became more potent poisons than the material that suppresses plant growth. Many would prefer to buy something to spread around to quickly solve a perceived problem instead of correcting to soil problems that are the real reason they are having problems. Start with a good reliable soil test to be sure the soil conditions are close to what the grass you are trying to grow needs to grow decently, the pH is in range, P, K, Ca, and Mg are close to the needs and in balance, and maybe even dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy to see what else you might do to the soil to grow a good healthy lawn.

Clover often does well in poor soils since it fixes its own nitrogen being in the legume family. Grass is typically nitrogen hungry. What you have in clover is a great cover crop and great for the bees. I just wonder why we don't love clover that does not ruin the water supply and the oceans with fertilizer and is cheap and green improving the soil while also having nice purple flowers(red clover) that feed the bumble bees that are an important pollinator. If you must have grass you may likely need to improve your soil. However grass does not flower so consider feeding the bees.