I know how I get rid of Bermuda. I cut that part of the sod out and replace it. The longer you let it go. The further it will travel. I have a 10x10 spot I also removed this year. I would rather have the bare spots untill I get a chance to replace it. The bermuda vine travels way to fast!!!

Sure looks like grabgrass to me. Here's a fairly organic fix. Spray the leaves with water mixed with a non-ionic surfactant (a few drops of non-antibacterial dish soap will work). Once thoroughly wet, fill an old sock with baking soda and beat it on or above the plane so that the dust gets on the leaves. They'll be black within a few days. Some of the leaves may not die so hit them again in a week or so. This will also kill the beneficials in your soil (thus the above reference to a fairly organic solution). Onve you're done treating throw some compost or compost tea on the areas to get the count back up. BTW, how's the orgainc going on the Bermuda. I'd love to try it, but I don't have a good local source for feeds.

I think you might be safe ignoring our typical warnings for summer applications of anything. How often do you get temperatures above 85 in the summer? If your temps typically run in the high 70s to low 80s, then you can do what you want. You have what the rest of us would consider to be fall type weather while we're suffering in more heat. The white flowered plant is Dutch white clover. The yellow flowered plant is black medic. Between the two of these weeds, I would much rather live with the clover. At least it becomes dense and looks fairly lush. Black medic just looks scrappy. To eliminate these completely requires something like Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer. If you think you can get rid of these organically then you'll have a future of internal conflict with reality. The mix you are using with vinegar will kill the tops of many plants, but only rarely kills the root. Plus it works best on hot sunny days...which you don't really get up there on the lake. I am a 100% organic fertilizer kind of guy and have been for 15 years. At the same time I see the value to having a nice lawn with no weeds. What you might consider is using the chemicals one or two times up front to get rid of them, then follow that up with a grass "densification" program to help keep weeds out in the future. Reseed the thin areas with Kentucky bluegrass. KBG is the kind of grass that will spread to fill in thin areas in the future. In your area it may go through the summer with only rainfall. Otherwise, it may go dormant in the summer dry spell and/or heat, such as it is in Racine. Fall is generally the time of year to reseed northern grasses. In your case you might start toward the end of July and get good results. My organic fertilizer of choice is alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). I like it because it is available at every feed store in my area, and it works. You might find that something like soybean meal, corn gluten meal, corn meal, cottonseed meal, or Milorganite is more available to you. Certainly Milorganite is available in Racine!! The application rate for all of these is 15-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You might be able to get a discount on a pallet for your acreage. If you live in an affluent area and want to keep your lawn up to their standards, it's going to cost you some money.

Hi there, I have tried everything and can not seem to identify what this weed is, nor have I found anything that I can use to get rid of it without adversely impacting the grass that is still struggling to take hold. Any help that you can provide would be greatly appreciated... The not so green thumb, --RG