Grass I hope you don't mind...I reran the spell checker and caps checker, fixed a few commas, and basically left everything else the same. I put it into an HTML format for posting here. Grass, please write to me from my member page. Here's Grass1950's message from the link... Credit and apologies to Texas_Weed for plagiarism and following his lead, but some concepts are just darn good ideas and some facts are, well, facts. What follows is a generic calendar of recommended lawn care practices designed to help you care for a Kentucky Bluegrass (KBG) lawn. Please understand this is generic and time tables may have to be adjusted for you geographical location. With the exception of "organic", the use of the term "fertilizer" means synthetic fertilizer, either slow or fast release will do with the exception of the last fertilizer of the season= urea 46-0-0, which, to my knowledge, is only available as fast release and is applied with that property a priority. March through May Mowing Mow when it first turns green or when you first notice growth as the grass comes out of winter dormancy with the mower set at 2 to 2 1/2 inches. Mowing at his height will encourage KBG's early prolific spring rhizome and spreading ability. Practice mulch mowing, aka grass re-cycling, which means simply leaving grass clippings on your lawn. Grass clippings decompose quickly and can provide 1 percent of the total weight of the clippings in additional nitrogen and potassium and another .4% of the clippings weight in phosphorus. That can be 25% or more of the lawn's fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, they can be collected and used as mulch. Fertilization Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet around May 30- June 1st. This will supply nutrient needs of the grass into the heat of summer and allow the grass to store carbs for survival during summer dormancy. Use a complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-l-2, 4-1-2, triple 12 or triple 19 ratios (for example, 15-5-10, 20-5-10. 12-12-12, or 19-19-19). Let a soil test be your guide to select a proper ratio of NPK to adjust for any deficiencies. To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of' nitrogen per thousand square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 20-5-10 product, divide 100 by 20. The result is 5.0 pounds of product per thousand square feet. Weed Control Apply pre-emergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goose grass, foxtail, etc. by the time the forsythia are in full bloom. Irrigation In many of the areas in which KBG grows best (temperature zones 4,5 and 6), Mother Nature will often take care of the irrigation needs of KBG in the spring; however: water should be present to a soil depth of 4 to 6 inches. Probe with a screwdriver to determine moisture depth. KBG needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water. On sandy soils it often requires more frequent watering, for example, 1/2 inch of water every third day. It may be necessary to irrigate an area for 3 to 5 hours to apply 1 inch of water. (It requires 640 gallons of water to deliver 1 inch of water per thousand square feet.) Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait 1/2 hour until the water has been absorbed, and then continue irrigating until the desired depth or amount is obtained. Best watering frequency for conservation is determined by looking for temporary darkening- bluish gray color, foot printing, wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest problems, environmental stress and drought/heat dormancy. Thatch Removal Even if proper water, mowing, and fertilizing techniques are followed thatch can be a problem with KBG. Before thatching, make sure you actually have a thatch problem. Thatch is not detrimental unless it exceeds 1/2 inch. Some thatch accumulation is beneficial as it insulates the roots from heat and helps retain moisture. If needed you may vertically mow or mechanically plug aerate in late March to early May to remove the thatch (layer of un-decayed grass) BEFORE applying a pre-emergent. It is advisable to wait to address thatch until late September- early October or, if overseeding, late August- early September and incorporate de-thatching/aerating with the overseeding. Weed pressure is dramatically less in the fall and the subsequent spring pre-emergent will help prevent weed seed germination. Aerating is not recommended if you have rhizotomatious weeds like poa trivialis or quackgrass--at the very least, those areas should be avoided. June through August Mowing Increase mowing height. If you will be watering regularly (2-3 times a week as needed for 1-1 1/4" of water per week), or in the event of, extended cool and rainy periods during the summer, height should be 3-3 1/2", -the highest height at which the grass blades will stay upright and allow airflow to prevent disease/fungus. Otherwise, mow at the mower's highest level Fertilization If you are able and willing to irrigate throughout the summer, you can apply 1/2 pound of N/1,000 each month throughout the summer. Use a fertilizer with iron content when available. Whether or not you plan to irrigate, you can use organic fertilizers like Milorganite throughout the summer months--Milorganite has iron content which will improve the color and photosynthesis ability of the grass.. Organics will not harm turf during drought and will provide nutrients when conditions are conducive. Irrigation Follow the March through May irrigation guidelines above. If you are not irrigating regularly and allowing the grass to go dormant, you should water 1/2 to 1" every 3 weeks to keep the grass crowns alive so the turf can recover once cooler temps and rain return. Weed Control Apply post-emergence herbicides through-out the growing season as needed to control summer annual and perennial weeds such as crabgrass, clover, knotweed, and spurge. Products like WeedBgone, WBG Max with Crabrass Control and WBG CCO. Similar products with the same AI herbicides usually control several different weeds in a lawn effectively. Be sure the product is labeled for use on KBG. Use Tenacity to control Bentgrass and Poa annua. Apply post emergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Be sure to follow label instructions and note temperature limitations of product if used. Mid August, if you are not overseeding in the fall, apply a pre-emergent to prevent germination of weeds like poa annua and chickweed etc. if they have been present in the yard. Insect Control KBG grass is most susceptible to insect damage from white grubs and billbugs and to a lesser extent to web worms. Check for these insects and control them if necessary. (e.g. Bayer 24hr grub killer) Disease Control Modern cultivars have increased KBG resistance to disease. Proper blending of cultivars and proper cultivation techniques (mowing, fertilization and watering) can dramatically reduce the incidence of disease and/or disease damage. Identify any signs of disease and immediately take appropriate remedial action. If disease has been a reoccurring problem, take appropriate preventive action as and when needed. September through November Mowing Once the dog days of August end and night temperatures are consistently in the 60's, incrementally lower the mowing height to 2-2 1/2" to encourage fall rhizome growth and spreading and to help prevent winter snow mold. Fertilization Once summer temperatures have moderated and the turf has revived (Late August to September 1st) apply 1# of N per 1000 sq ft. of lawn. A balanced NPK is advised such as a triple 12 or 19 to help prepare the lawn for winter dormancy. A second application of N (1/2-1#/k) is recommended October 1st to insure the turf stays green and photosynthesis continues. Once the turf has ceased or dramatically stopped top-growth (mowing is no longer or barely needed), apply 1# N per thousand sq ft. (k) of urea (46-0-0) for winter root growth, carb. storage, early spring green-up, and spring rhizome production. In addition you can apply lime, sulfur, gypsum, etc. if a soil test indicated a deficiency. Irrigation In zones where KBG does well, fall weather should supply sufficient rain. Otherwise, follow the March through May irrigation guidelines.. Thatch, Aerating and Overseeding See March - May above. December through February Build a snowman and enjoy the holidays.

ladyrose65, your soil is probably too fertile. I know, sounds crazy, right? Or maybe you just haven't waited long enough--has it been 60 days? If you're fertilizing your moonflowers, you just have to stop. If not, I would wait and see how they do later. Also, to the OP: I don't know about stinkbugs. As far as I know, one should soak them overnight or so in good water--I put mine under some pop can tabs to keep them gently submerged--and then try and plant them. Don't bother waiting for them to sprout in the water. I was able to get seeds from a store if you want to look for more of them. Don't know which store--look around. However, if they have already sprouted, you don't need to worry about the seeds rotting from being soaked too long. You DO need to worry about the plant itself rotting, though--Moonflowers like well-drained soil. If it's constantly soaked, you might want to let it dry out more between waterings--don't worry, it shouldn't hurt the plant, they are tropical and used to that kind of thing. Don't let it dry out too long though. It's perfect when you can feel damp soil a few inches under. Another technique I've heard of is where you take the pot (assuming it has that little drainage hole in the bottom, which it should) and put it in the sink. Then you turn on the faucet and basically rinse out the dirt. The water will run out of the hole; just leave the pot in the sink for a while and the excess will drain off. I've never tried it myself, but some people need to... I don't know if this helps you. This is actually my first year of growing these guys too, but I've read up on them and I have experience with morning glories, which are related.

Isn't a growbag is an old bagpipe filled with dirt? :) I'm surprised Scotland is zone 8, but I guess that's what happens when gardening zones are defined by minimum winter temperatures. I'm in western Canada, zone 3, so winters would be a heck of lot colder than Scotland, but summers maybe warmer. Anyway, I'm at 53.5 degrees North, so probably have similar long summer daylight as Scotland. Your greenhouse and temperate climate should give you a long growing season, but light may play a factor too, with growth slowing as the days get shorter even if you can keep the temperature up. I get shut down here by late September regardless as frost threatens. As someone above mentioned, varieties of C. annum will probably work best for you as they grow and ripen the fastest. In my experience, I find getting fruit set on hot peppers a lot easier than on bell peppers. You might do okay with bells in your greenhouse. Watch for insect pests, they can multiply quickly in a greenhouse, though you certainly wouldn't have any natural pepper pests in Scotland. That's all I can think of off the top of my head... oh, I'm growing "Matchbox" this year, a hot pepper, going to start hardening them off tomorrow in preparation for planting into pots and maybe directly in the garden too, in another week or two.

Yes, I do see the dandelion leaf in that shot now, I think. And the small dandelion plant in the last one. They very well could be multiple things there. I will look at some Erigeron species and compare them to what I have outside. Thank you very much, again!