From one enthusiastic apple guy in Wisconsin to another -- welcome! And don't worry -- as you see here, I know all about being long-winded! Pruning is a great first step for getting your old trees into more manageable condition. I've heard it said that there really is no right or wrong time to prune -- you can do it this time of season if you like and the tree will have plenty of time to recover over the rest of the summer. The only questionable time to prune is very late in the growing season or immediately following growing -- say in September through November or so. Otherwise have at 'er. I've also heard it said that you shouldn't prune off more than about 1/3 of the total wood of a tree in any given year. This is a rough guideline but will minimize the shock to the tree and allow it to continue to fruit (well if not this year then next year) in addition to development of youthful vegetative growth. If on the other hand you just lopped the whole trunk off at like 5 feet high and left no branches, it will take many years for that tree to recover and resume fruiting. The tree probably wouldn't die, but it would be a major shock to the tree and send it into a major vegetative growth mode. So 1/3 is a good balancing point of "a lot, but not too much". You can continue pruning from year to year in this manner over the course of 2 or 3 years if necessary until the tree takes the shape and size that you want. Be aware that any named varieties of apples do not grow on their own roots. They are all grafted onto selected rootstocks, with weird names such as Bud 9 or MM 111. You can research rootstocks that are good for your soil quality and your needs for disease resistance, the final size of the tree that you would like, etc., and then purchase trees grafted to those rootstocks. Soil amendments are not at all a bad idea, although I'm honestly not certain how big of a deal it really is for apples, which it seems can grow well in all kinds of different soils, especially if you select a proper rootstock for your conditions. Careful evaluation and selection of good candidate apple varieties before going out shopping will also be beneficial. The more homework you do up front, the more happy you will be several years down the road when your trees finally begin fruiting in earnest. Developed in Minnesota, Honeycrisp is a fantastic option for Wisconsin's climate, and it so happens that it is as excellent for making cider as it is for eating. Very juicy and chock full of sugar. If you are very interested in making cider, you will probably also want tart varieties to blend in with the Honeycrisp, Red Delicious, and any other sweet varieties that don't have a whole lot of tartness to balance. I'm not very familiar with Wolf River but if memory serves, this might be a good tart variety? Personally I'm grafting a number of branches on my trees over to old English heritage cider apple varieties such as Foxwhelp, Kingston Black, Ashmead's Kernel, etc. These all have good tartness as well as some bitterness, or what some might call "snap" or "bite" beyond just tartness. Of these, I am having the best success so far growing the Foxwhelp, but who knows what the future holds. Of all my other trees, I am happiest so far with the Honeycrisp and the Cortland. Cortland is early bearing and is just a beautiful tree I think, although it tends very much to be tip-bearing on last year's wood so you must be very careful not to over-prune it or you'll be snipping off most of the fruiting wood! It is a delicious apple to eat and excellent for pies and sauce, and suited perfectly for Wisconsin's climate. Personally I do not care for Red Delicious, but I have heard many say that when eaten ripe right off the tree, they are indeed delicious. And I know they do grow well in Wisconsin, as my grandfather had several trees and they produced heavily at least every other year (biennial bearing). As for trees to avoid, I would look up the USDA Hardiness Zone that you live in, and stay away from any varieties that are intended for zones far warmer than your own. For example, I enjoy Braeburn and Granny Smith apples, but as far as I know, we haven't had a lot of success growing those types here in Wisconsin, as they originated from warmer climates and seem unable to adapt well here. Your trees can definitely produce fruit of superior size and quality if you take an active role in their care. Untended trees may produce many bushels of fruit, but it may be very small (i.e., mostly core, and therefore not so much to eat!), full of worms or other disease, all green rather than red or yellow due to excessive vegetation and shading, etc. If you can remove much of the vegetative growth each year leaving most of the fruiting wood, and perhaps thin out the fruits and/or fruit buds each year, your fruit will be larger (less core and more to eat!), more colorful, easier to spray, easier to reach from the ground or a short ladder, etc. No matter what you do, have fun with it. That is what it's really all about. Enjoy.

I agree. Frequent turning and ample amounts of water will deter mice getting in there to have a little snackie and they will not make nests in it if it is too wet for a nice cozy mouse house . If your compost is already "cooked to perfection and done", then bag it up and store it in a trash can with a tight fitting lid for future use, or spread it around in your growing areas and containers. This is what I do.

You are basically on the edge of the "northern" and "southern" halves so feel free to experiment. If you fertilize in April & July, make sure that (a) fertilzing in April will not trigger growth that a frost will then kill and (b) fertilizing in July will not delay the start of dormancy in the Fall. You want the plants to start going dormant by or before your average date of first frost. Likewise, you want to fertilize after your average date of last frost in Spring. For example, for Baltimore, the date of last frost in Spring is around April 11 so, you could try fertilizing then or about 1-2 weeks afterwards. The average date of first frost in the Fall is October 29 so fertilize in July and observe if the plant starts going dormant by October 29 or 1-2 weeks earlier. Using organic fertilizers like organic compost, composted manure or cottonseed meal helps with this because they are slow-release fewrtilizers. Chemical fertilizers can also be used but look to see that they claim being "general-purpose" and "slow-release". I would not prune these 20-yr old varieties in Spring because all mopheads, including the rebloomers, always develop their Spring blooms way back in July-August. So pruning before they leaf out in Spring basically cuts off the Spring blooms. With reblooming hydrangeas that is not an issue since they rebloom again later on. But your 20-yr old mopheads are probably not rebloomers. Best time will be to prune any time after they have bloomed in Spring thru and including the end of June.

here is what i got from the analysis: Analysed : "D:\" April 12 2010, 22:47.21 Processed in 1 minute 46 seconds =================================================== Number of Files : 94276 Number of Folders : 19066 Size of Files : 23.14GB Size of Files (on disk) : 23.33GB Disk space wasted : 193.25MB Null files : 105 Empty folders : 0 Average File Size : 257.34K Average Files/Folder : 4.94 Largest Folder : \Windows\ (11.43GB, 67% of files) Largest File : D:\pagefile.sys (3.93GB) User with largest share : SYSTEM (9.69GB, 20%) : Quantity Size Programs : 2608 :: 2.54GB (11%) System : 21342 :: 15.21GB (66%) Graphics : 11383 :: 279.95MB (1%) Movie : 202 :: 298.27MB (1%) Audio : 704 :: 66.73MB ( Office : 6406 :: 159.68MB ( Programming : 378 :: 4.78MB ( Compressed : 4159 :: 318.93MB (1%) Other : 47094 :: 4.29GB (19%) Custom1 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom2 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom3 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom4 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom5 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom6 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom7 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom8 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom9 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom10 : 0 :: 0 bytes =================================================== Analysed : "C:\" April 12 2010, 22:51.31 Processed in 1 minute 37 seconds =================================================== Number of Files : 82894 Number of Folders : 15777 Size of Files : 17.37GB Size of Files (on disk) : 17.53GB Disk space wasted : 167.86MB Null files : 1768 Empty folders : 0 Average File Size : 219.67K Average Files/Folder : 5.25 Largest Folder : \Windows\ (10.87GB, 74% of files) Largest File : C:\hiberfil.sys (2.95GB) User with largest share : TrustedInstaller (9.21GB, 66%) : Quantity Size Programs : 2214 :: 797.99MB (4%) System : 17599 :: 10.46GB (60%) Graphics : 7221 :: 481.60MB (3%) Movie : 159 :: 555.87MB (3%) Audio : 669 :: 65.39MB ( Office : 9583 :: 128.44MB ( Programming : 374 :: 4.70MB ( Compressed : 78 :: 356.16MB (2%) Other : 44997 :: 4.57GB (26%) Custom1 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom2 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom3 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom4 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom5 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom6 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom7 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom8 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom9 : 0 :: 0 bytes Custom10 : 0 :: 0 bytes ===================================================