Newly planted Bottlebrush Tree leaves yellowing
texasbanzai
11 years ago
We just planted a bottlebrush tree about a week ago, and it looks like leaves are starting to turn yellow and drop. I would say it looks like a moderate amount of the tree has been affected. The tree is planted in a very sunny spot (12+ hours/day), clay soil.
We've watered it every 2-3 days so far. Used 1.5 gallons of mixed "Amazing Roots" stimulator from Calloways. I wasn't sure if it might be overwatering? I saw through searching that this tree can be affected by chlorosis, but I assume it's not since it has hardly been a week since it came out of the container. Also, it's covered in 'Preen' mulch, perhaps that is caushing it?
More pictures of the tree here.
Thanks in advance.
PS, my USDA Zone is 8a.
Here is a link that might be useful: More Pictures
This post was edited by texasbanzai on Wed, Apr 17, 13 at 12:11
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centralmnsoil
11 years agophoenix7801
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Newly planted Magnolia & yellow leaves
Comments (3)yeah. i've been told not fertilize anything new. i think the reasoning behind this is that it's probably been done at the nursery. also, i planted a few trees last year and the year before. i remember worrying about their condition soon after planting. i thought they were dying. the landscaper said it's normal for them to experience stress the first year. he was right because they are all thriving and happy now. your little gem probably needs some time to adjust. my sweetbay magnolia is just starting to perk up. i planted him last year....See MoreNewly-planted Skyline Honey Locust, individual leaves turning yellow
Comments (6)Here are a few photos, and I appreciate the advice received. Based on what people are saying, I'm going to assume the tree is doing well enough and not overthink things or worry too much. I dug down about 7 inches right along the side of the root ball and the soil (ball and surrounding) seemed quite wet - not sloppy or over-saturated, but very sticky/damp clay all around. I had amended the soil when the tree was planted with just a bit of extra very fertile soil from another part of the garden, but no special planting medium or fertilizer (obviously) or whatever else. I will actually dial back the watering a bit, and assume that it may be slightly more than adequate right now with the daily approach, since the soil was so clearly damp wherever I checked. I did the planting myself, and I have to say the tree seems very well situated overall, despite the challenge of a slight incline. It hasn't moved a millimeter since the day it was planted, the saucer under the mulch is intact, etc....See MoreYellow leaves on newly planted hydrangeas
Comments (4)Considering that we are about to start Summer, that the plant came from a greenhouse with perfect sunlight/humidity/etc conditions, that newly transplanted hydrangeas have transplant shock for a while and considering that its watering regime may need a little tweaking as time goes on, it is not surprising that we may see that happen often now. I was going to add another item to the reasons above but I could not see the bottom of picture 2 clearly: does the plant have organic mulch? If not, maintain 2-4" or mulch year around (no rocks). This helps minimize soil moisture evaporation and protects the roots from cold/heat extremes. fyi only: paniculatas are known for "showing their feet" when the weather starts to get hot. The root system that the plant has is not as large as it used to be so you may notice that the plant gets heat stressed often during the worst days of summer. This usually means when temperatures are 85F or more. It can also happen when the soil has too little moisture or when it is very windy. Feel free to provide extra shade if it complains a lot during its first year. You can use outside chairs and umbrellas to provide extra shade this year only. Make sure that you have started watering at Summer time levels. The amount of water per watering should get the soil all around the plant moist down to a depth of 8" or so. Water early in the morning (6-8am) if you use a sprinkler so the leaves do not stay wet for long periods of time. Water only the soil, from the crown (the area where all the stems originate from) outwards in all directions. To see if it needs water, insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 4" (that is where the roots normally are) and water if the soil feels dry or almost dry. This time of the year, I water about 1.5 gallons of water per plant but test the amount needed using the finger method: water as usual; then insert a finger into several places around the plant to a depth of 8" and see if they feel moist. If not, use more water....See MoreNeed help with yellow leaves on newly transplanted cherry tree
Comments (3)not great time for transplanting.. it is rather stressed ... so its got some yellow leaves .. so what.. vast majority are still green but a bit limp .. thats pretty much a WIN .... you disrupted the roots... so its not uncommon it cant pump enough water to fill them up completely ... if you could rig some temporary shade it would help ... it will take this tree 2 to 3 years to become fully established ... you are responsible for all PROPER water this year.. and in drought next year ... and it should be rather free range after that... next tree.. do not amend the planting hole .. but what is done is done ... see primer below on tree planting ... its stressed.. not hungry.. no fert until fall ... if ever.. imo.. trees never need to be fed ... my number one recommendation is to dig small holes to find out about water at depth.. so good for you ... that you already did such .....let it near dry in between good watering ... it can only pump so much.. so rotting the roots off isnt going to help .... more water isnt going to do any more than it is .... i have no clue what 10 mins of water means.. that is for you to figure out.. like you are ... i hope there is no landscape fabric under the rocks.. or what i think is red mulch ... i would have gone with uncolored mulch.. so it fades to grey to match the rock .. but its your choice .... and lastly .. at the link.. section 1.. TIMING ... next time or for the rest of summer.. if you buy a tree or shrub.. just stick pot and all in shade.. and plant it at the appropriate time.. not when you buy it ... you are not a real gardener. until you have 100 pots to plant in fall ... its all about the timing.. and the stress you avoid.. yours and the plants .... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub...See Morecynthianovak
11 years agocarrie751
11 years ago
roselee z8b S.W. Texas
11 years agocynthianovak
11 years agoroselee z8b S.W. Texas
11 years agohearittTX
10 years agoLove your Bottlebrush tree! I noticed in your pictures that you have the mulch all the way up to the trunk. Maybe you might try clearing it out leaving a clean 12 inch diameter around the trunk. It sounds like you are doing all the right things though. I planted two Bottlebrush trees last year and they both had some yellow leaves after planting too. I wouldn't be too concerned. I watered mine every two days for about a month and then twice a week throughout the summer and I have clay soil here in the Houston area. I did amend the soil with some quality potting soil mix before planting and fertilized twice so far with MicroLife fertilizer (made in Texas!). Good luck with your new tree! I love ours, I posted a picture of one of them here.
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texasbanzaiOriginal Author