I once grew this in a planter mounted on my fence. It made a nice mound in the pot and then spilled over for about 2 feet(I had no trellis). I did not find it to be a very prolific grower, but it was not in full sun. A tree 3 feet in diameter might be a bit much for it, but it would probably be quite full in a pot with a few twigs in it. You could probably 'train' it into a nice shape. I've done that with sweet peas.

Thank you all for your input! Hubby and I are leaning towards the parthenocissus for the majority of the wall planted somewhere near the right (front) end. But I'm not sure which species would do well in my climate zone and in these conditions where the sun would be on that section for the entire day. Mine is fine with sun hitting it the entire day. If the leaves look scorched, water a bit more. Avoid P. quinquefolia (Viginia creeper) because it is too rampant. Named varieties of other species will be more tame. Expect a year or two to establish a good root system before the plant really takes off, but you should get some coverage the first year. Also, if those sticky suckers flake off, will the plant be at risk of falling off the wall? No. If some bit of the plant accidentally gets pulled off the wall, just cut that part off because it won't re-attach. A new bit will grow and stick on its own. Also, I'd still like to do one bougainvillea on the opposite corner. Anyone have tips for pruning to keep it the shape I want? Use a hedge trimmer and just shear it close to the wall. Bougies bloom on new growth, so new growth = flowers, so cutting back = more flowers, not less (within reason). Do not trim a baby plant too much. Let it establish. I'd like to have it climb up the wall at the corner and then most trail across the top section of the wall. In this situation where it will be attaching itself to the wall, how can I help direct its growth since there's nothing to tie pieces to as one would if growing on a trellis. Bougies won't attach themselves. You will have to install some strong wires or a trellis and use them to attach. Would also appreciate help on choosing a bougainvillea veiety suitable to this location/climate. I'm hoping "Orange Ice" will work because I really love the colors. A non-red color will be much less rampant and would be a good choice. Check on performance for that particular variety in your area--have you seen one growing in your neighborhood that looks good? Plant bougies in June or July when the soil is warm and do not disturb the rootball. Baby bougies are easily killed because the roots are so frail and brittle and need warmth. Established bougies are nearly impossible to kill. For planting slit the planting pot up, place the pot in the planting hole and gently pull out the pieces of the pot, leaving the roots as undisturbed as you can. Should I purchase online or would local nursery be better to ensure getting plants that are best for my area? If you have a good quality garden center nearby, that should be fine. Neither genus is particularly rare or hard to find.

Thank you, ghoghunter (Joann), toad08 (crazy that we're both 08s!), and butterfly4u for you replies and advice. I really do appreciate your wisdom, as I am really pretty new to gardening (though, I am finding it to be an addictive, enjoyable--but expensive :)--hobby! I am sorry that it has taken me this long to say thank you and address each of your posts. ghoghunter- I had heard of dutchman's pipe and I do like it. I will do some more research on it a a climber for my tree. I do know a bit about trumpet vine as well--my mother has one growing on a large brush pile she has at the back of her 6 acre property and it is absolutely gorgeous. I would love to plant trumpet vine...but the tree is too close to my house and I know it spreads like wildfire, so that is not an option. Thanks again for your suggestions! toad08- Chester County, PA is in zone 6--sorry I forgot to include that! I was under the impression that American Wisteria is "safer" :) and much less aggressive than Chinese Wisteria/non-native wisteria? The woman at the garden center where I purchased it said that growing it on my pergola would be fine, but that some pruning would be necesary of course. Maybe I am too naive and she was just making a sale :) Could you tell me a little more about the differences between American and Chinese wisteria? I have done some research on the web and did not find anything to make me think planting it where I did was a huge mistake. Please take no offense--I'm not trying to sound rude at all! I just want to know from an experienced gardener their personal experiences with American wisteria vs. Chinese, ect. Since we are not in the same zone though...not sure how that affects the question/answers... Thanks again for all! butterfly4u- Wow! Thank you for so much input! I will talk to someone about my dead tree before I go through with any planting of any vine. The tree is not totally dead though, I've come to realize more and more. There are lots of leaves on the side that was not struck by lightening and it looks healthy besides the charred side (not the whole side either, just a blaze) So, perhaps I need not worry about the tree so much as worrying about not killing it further with a vine? I would just like to conceal the charring. But, again, I will most defidenly consult a professional first--I feel stupid b/c I never even thought of that! Thank you!! I did look up the climbing hydrangea and it is lovely! I will consider it for the tree (if I am given the go-ahead) but for sure another spot in the yard--I have a tall fence that could use some sprucing up...would this vine work for that spot (7' tall, flat panel pine privacy fence)? Any further advice or experience would be very much appreciated! As for the wisteria...as I said above, I thought that American Wisteria was much less agressive and safe for the house than a non-native wisteria? Well, mayber dumb question, as you stated that your girlfriend has one that she uses a ladder to reach to prune--sorry!! I'm fine with ladders/heights, so that is not an issue. How should I help the wisteria to climb up to the actual pergola since it cannot climb the square post? The post may not even be 10" on each side...how small an object does a wisteria need to twine around? I thought since it was so heavy a vine that a larger object would be good? I know the stems become very thick. You know more than me though...please advise as to what material (sorry, oh god--you said wire! I'm sorry to be so careless!--see last sentence please) to attach to the post to get it to climb and how to actually train the vine onto that object, if you can--much appreciated! **How do I attach the wire and what kind of wire? Not to be completely sounding idiotic...but, like how much space between the post so the vine can twine between the wire and post? Thank you, thank you, thank you! Kind Regards-- Lauren

My guess is they need to dry out more between watering.