Any ideas for easy ways to provide vertical supports for vines?
AdamM321
18 years ago
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susanlynne48
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Ideas for constructing vertical support in raised beds?
Comments (47)Here is a closeup of the panel at the very front of the garden (where I grow the cantaloupe & honeydew). I start with a standard bull panel (5' X 20'), which is made out of 1 gauge galvanized wire & has a 6” x 6” spacing. At the very top & bottom of each panel, I weld a section of #5 rebar to prevent any sagging/flexing. These panels then rest on top of the T-posts & are welded in place also. When the panels are all installed, I then install the insulated risers & sprinkler heads as pictured. This will allow for an unobstructed arc of water... and as you can see, each section is perfectly level & straight. While this may seem like overkill to some, I know that this setup will stand up to any strong winds that may be encounter during our growing seasons down here, even when being fully loaded with vegetation & fruit....See MoreYour Preferred Way of Supporting Tomato Plants
Comments (29)I'm envious of the lush open gardens! The critters in my area are numerous and love a nice salad bar, so hard earned experience has caused me to build Fort Knox... pic attached. I have wire on the floor and plastic deer fence on the walls and roof... I wish I could say it's overkill, but again I did learn it was necessary the hard way! No crop damage at all anymore. And to the reason for my reply here... the fence on the roof allows me to put bamboo stakes wherever I want them. I just poke them up through the mesh and they are well supported. The poles are 12' tall, and my indeterminate tomatoes grow right to the top and then back down again... I do need a stepladder by season's end, but I love the look of the vigorous towering plants....See MoreAdvice on support for flowering vines
Comments (10)I don't have a garage or shed (am in a hi-rise but was in a house for years before and do some vertical gardening on my balcony wall), but I do have vines for hummingbirds and recently butterflies have been visiting too (yes I get both up here...lol). Regarding your suggestions, you bring up good points and counter-points regarding trellising against a shed wall. Wood does rot after awhile (even with paint) and metal can rust and crumble after awhile (even with paint). It would be nice if one could find a similar large wall trellis in PVC (I know there are smaller ones that are tall but usually narrow too, but that might be something to think about to use). What I can offer would be like a small scale experience to help describe what the vines you are considering might do and the type of support you might need. Some of the vines that hummers like do include the honeysuckles, but if you choose a native (Loncera sempervirens), then those don't grow as aggressively or are as invasive as the japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica). There are many named varieties of the natives and my hummers couldn't wait until the flowers started opening yesterday and they were all over it. Mine ("Blanche Sandman") is in a pot and supported by a decorative vinyl-coated metal trellis. Interestingly, that honeysuckle seems a bit reticent to twine like other honeysuckles so it would basically mean manually threading it around the support and/or tying them initially until they are on their way. My other honeysuckle - a "Mandarin" (Lonicera x mandarin) does twine quite readily on its own and that is on a small wooden trellis support and yep, the hummers like that one too). But as a note, as a twiner, honeysuckles may have some difficulty going around something too large in diameter, although being woody vines, they do better than the annual vines on wider supports. Similarly, my American wisteria, which is not as aggressive as its asian cousins and as a woody vine, can twine better around a wider support, but the thinner the easier for it. My Blanche Sandman honeysuckle looks like this right now (sorry for the hazy picture but it's hazy here...ugh... this is its 2nd year with me, it was from a 1 gallon size plant that I got last year). These have a tendency for bare bottoms (I have seen larger specimens do similar) with a mass of vinelettes and flowers towards the top (unless you prune to make it bushier - the japanese honeysuckle tends to do the long vines): The SRBs, cypress vines and cardinal climbers have thinner vine shoots and need a finer support to attach to. I have seen some interesting suggestions for that on the large scale where one can string fishing line up for them. Since they are annuals (and the cardinal climber is in the colder areas although they might reseed), and unless you can find white or clear netting, using fishing line might be more aesthetically neutral in winter when the support area is exposed after they die back. The crossvine and trumpet vine are woody like honeysuckle and sortof twine but can become shrubby as well. So for any of the woody vines, a good solid support would be a must. The trumpet vine can get aggressive so unless you are willing to hack it back (I have seen people grow it like a standard), then you might want to reconsider. The crossvine might get that way too, although it's not as aggressive and there are some pretty cultivars out there. If you did decide on clematis (I have one on a cheapy tomato cage) it depends on the type as the group 3s like I have can be cut to the ground every year and will bloom on new growth (meaning for a trellis, it needs to be re-trained each year), whereas the group 1s and 2s maintain a woody structure and require minimal pruning. These attach via their leafs, which wrap around the support, so too thick or wide a support and they can't climb well on their own and they will attach to themselves and then fall over in a tangled mess. But for the ones maintaining a woody structure, if you thread and train the vine (even tie it up), you can shape it permanently. For attaching to a wall, it's probably best to have it on a stand-off (maybe a few inches out) so that you can get behind it and allow the plants to be woven around and through it easier. Plus it keeps the back of the plants off a hot wall and allows some air to move behind. Anyway, hope this helps a little - when I was composing this, I saw a butterfly that I wasn't sure of. Someone from above was looking out for me because I took a WAG and checked a PA butterfly site and immediately ID'd it on a first try as a silver-spotted skipper. I have alot of red flowers blooming up here right now and I guess it saw those and the leaves of my wisteria and maybe thought the wisteria was a locust tree or related (these apparently like pea family plants and the wisteria leaves resemble such): I did have a visit from an Eastern Black swallowtail last weekend: And I'm still trying to get a good picture of my hummers this year but here's a rare one from last year where 2 were sitting not far from each other and had they known the other was there, the mad chase would have errupted (plus you can see my volunteer MGs around the shepherd's hook where the feeder was hung - they did use the MGs as they were closing by the way):...See MoreEasy Ways to Plant Tomatoes?
Comments (9)Linda wrote: > Mine are two feet apart and I find that's too close, considering that I don't prune. I don’t prune either – well, except the NECESSARY: yellowish / brownish lower leaves, and leaves to improve air circulation. I leave most of the suckers. I love the suckers, especially those from the bottom, which will provide food later when many low-medium leaves were removed for being brownish. In the first few years of growing tomatoes, after removing the brownish leaves, AND the suckers, I had leaves only from 5-6 ft. up. That little foliage was not able to feed the plant' fruits. I learned my lesson, and I didn't remove the lower suckers anymore. You can see bellow that while I removed the brownish leaves from 5-6-7 ft. high, the lower suckers have a nice foliage which will feed the fruits at 5-15 ft. high. This happens usually late in the season (August,) I experimented planting tomatoes 1, 2 and 3 ft. apart. The roots had similar sizes so I decided for 1 ft. apart. Well sey, you plant pretty close too. Much closer that what some recommend: 2-3 ft. apart. > Don't you get foliage disease? With the HUGE real estate - the frame bellow is 16 ft. wide x 12 ft. high - foliage disease was NEVER a problem. Fungicide – Copper – from DAY ONE also helped to avoid foliage disease. The frame is 12 ft. high, but the tomatoes grew 15+ ft. high. > I'm wondering if you have the luxury of covering all your plants when it rains!!!! I’m afraid I don’t understand why I SHOULD cover my plants when it rains. For the big frame above I don’t cover the plants. For another structure of frames that I have... ... I do cover the plants, mostly for cold early-spring days and for HEAVY rain / winds (thunderstorm) protection. Fabric mulch also helped avoiding diseases from splashing rain and to control the water intake. In the picture bellow you can also see I didn't remove the lower suckers. No problems whatsoever. NOTE: Pictures are from last year - 2014....See Morelittleonefb
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