I can add my $.02 on question #2:

Im not sure what the soil is like in that area, but whatever you decide to do, make sure you leave atleast a couple inches of your foundation exposed, otherwise, if dirt is covering it up to the first layer of bricks, you could get termites easily. Also, dont use pine bark mulch in the beds that but up against the house. If teremites get to the pine bark, they can easily transfer to your pine frame, if that is what you used.

#3, under ideal conditions, probably the last weekend. But if the weather is nice during the first, and the forecast shows nice weather, then do it then.

Hi romandub,
Are you planning raised beds? If so, I would not bother tilling, just plant in the newly added soil.What sort of native plants are you thinking about? Trees and shrubs should be planted in native soil with amendments (your new soil). If I were buying soil, I would choose a sandy loam with compost mix. Since you won't be there to protect new plantings from freezes, I think the last weekend in March would be safer. And to answer another question, you can add the soil and plants in the same day if you have the energy after wheelbarrowing all that soil into place ;-)

Pam

Hi - Since you will be planting ''native - drought tolerant plants''. Do a search online for a list of the plants, before you make any selections. Also, you could look into xeriscaping, it saves - conserves water and may be, quite helpful for you.
There are many plants,trees ,grasses, shrubs, bulbs and such that you can choose from. Here is a site, that can help you. It lets you select a region and then gives you the list of plants. If you do a search, there are many other sites.
Also, you may want to look at what neighbors have growing in their flower beds. You may get, some great ideas.
Do all the searching, before you plant. It will save time and cut down on the frustration, when you plant.
Gooduck - tina_2
http://www.wildflower.org/collections/

{{gwi:586769}}

Hi, I live in the hill country, in southeastern Blanco County, so I'll answer the best I can.

1. We are going to bring in dirt. Should we just add dirt on top of what is already there, or should we till the old stuff and mix it up with the new dirt?

ANSWER: Till up the old stuff, and pull out the grass and weed root, then dump in the new stuff and till it all in so that you mix it.

2. Can (should) we till a week or two before we actually plant? In other words, can we have the dirt delivered and do the tilling one weekend and do the planting 2-3 weekends later?

Yes, you can do that.

3. Because of work and travel schedules, we are limited to putting in the beds either the first weekend in March or the last weekend in March. Which is better?

Last weekend might be better weather and warmer, so I'd go with that.

4. We are not going to be putting in a sprinkler system, but were thinking of laying soaker hoses. In reading various posts on this forum, there seems to be a difference of opinion on whether those work or what type to get. Thoughts?

Soakers are OK, but I've never been all that impressed with them. You could also do a hose sprinkler.

One other important thing--look for deer-resistant plants and flowers, like red salvia and maybe some nice lavendar. Lavendar grows VERY well in the hill country and smells wonderful. Rosemary does well, too!

Good luck!
We moved out of Austin 2.5 years ago and I wish we could've done it sooner. I LOVE it out here.

When plants are truly well selected for a site no soil
amendment should be needed. If your site has had the
original topsoil removed, some soil amendments can help.
Imported soil can create new conditions when combined
with native soils. Garden soils prepared and available at
garden centers and dirt yards are often too rich in organic
matter for native plants. If you are able to specify your own
soil mix, ask to have less manure and organic matter added.
Better yetÂhave them help you simulate as best as possible
your native soil. Be aware that some builders lay down
"sandy loam"Â often referred to by native plant gardeners
as "Red Death"Â which is actually dug from deep pits and
has no nutrient value or organic life. If this is the case, you
may need to remove the sandy loam and start from scratch.

dittos pj
dittos tamtx on the deer resistant plants
shrubs and trees planted there may need some supplemental watering the first year to get established, unless we are blessed with another wet spring like last year (yeah, right) Since you won't be there much, maybe some kind of timer would be in order for soaker hose or drip irrigation. I vote for the later planting date also.

TAMU website will be immensely valuable in your plant selection also.

There's another 2 cents. (its gonna take a lot of opinions to buy a cup of coffee)
; - )
j.d.

I'm going to offer you my .02. Being a weekender too, I know what it is like.

Plants. I try to use natives and plants that do well dry and are not picky about soil, but also serve a fuction to feed butterflies and hummingbirds (and lots of cool moths). Some favorites in no order.

flame acanthus
Texas betony
turks cap
cypress vine
morning glories
mexican torch sunflower
gayfeather
four o clocks(although they fizzle late)

Secondly, Orbit sprinklers has a 3AA powered, digital, 4 station hose sprinkler system that with 4 station valves cost about 65.00. I love mine and it takes care of my stuff while I'm gone. If you use it with drip systems you can cover a lot of ground.

Hope it helps

Thanks for all the great suggestions! I still have a lot of research to do, but this is very helpful!